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Cruiserhead
05-31-2005, 02:55 AM
Really happy to finally have this all done! I took forever figuring out how I wanted to wire and install the compressor & switches.
Got to thank my 4Runner friends for lots of advice since I know nothing about electrical stuff, this was a good for me to learn.
Key help from a LC friend too.

The AC 115V switch is the ARB compressor switch
http://homepage.mac.com/paintlab/.Pictures/Photo%20Album%20Pictures/2005-05-12%2011.49.03%20-0700/Image-6DFDF2B3C31611D9.jpg

ARB compressor mount. I used rubber isolation and it worked, it is actually very quiet. The only visible wires are the two extra connectors on the battery, otherwise it is 'invisible'
http://homepage.mac.com/paintlab/.Pictures/Photo%20Album%20Pictures/2005-05-12%2011.49.03%20-0700/Image-6DFE6823C31611D9.jpg

The locker install by FourxDoctor
http://homepage.mac.com/paintlab/.Pictures/Photo%20Album%20Pictures/2005-05-12%2011.49.03%20-0700/Image-6DFE8C3EC31611D9.jpg
So the install looks good, time will tell if it done right but FourxDoctor comes highly recommended so I'm not worried.

bulldog
06-01-2005, 08:50 PM
Man you did a eally clean install of all the wires, etc.

The locker came in real handy at Hollister, time to get front ones now :D

Vegas Runner
06-13-2005, 07:54 PM
The AC 115V switch is the ARB compressor switch


How did you do the lettering on the "RR DIFF LOCK" switch? Also, I noticed there is a green LED on the far left switch blank. Is that the indicator light that the rear locker is engaged?

I was thinking about purchasing 3 of the "AC 115V" switches since they already have an indicator light built in and using:

One for the compressor "Air"
One for the rear locker "RR DIFF LOCK"
One for the front locker "FT DIFF LOCK"

But I need to find out how to remove the stock lettering "AC 115V" from the switch and re-letter it. You did a beautiful job of the lettering. Any thoughts?

bulldog
06-13-2005, 10:10 PM
I believe it is the stock Tacoma rear diff lock switch, so the lettering is factory.

You can get the LC80 rotator switch as well fo front and rear diff lock.

Also check this site for switches, not as nice as factory but already marked.
http://www.4x4mods.com/Product/Jeep/rockerswitches.html

Vegas Runner
06-14-2005, 11:46 AM
I believe it is the stock Tacoma rear diff lock switch, so the lettering is factory.

You can get the LC80 rotator switch as well fo front and rear diff lock.

Also check this site for switches, not as nice as factory but already marked.
http://www.4x4mods.com/Product/Jeep/rockerswitches.html

Do you know a good (read:inexpensive) source for the Toyota:
1.) 110V Power Outlet Switch
2.) RR Diff Lock Switch

I called the dealer and they wanted $70.99 for the 110V Power Outlet Switch. When I heard that i didn't even ask about the RR Diff Lock Switch. Do you know where ATRAC got his?

Also where can the LC80 rotator switch be purchased? Do you know where I can find the specifications of this switch? Or at least some pictures. Best case scenario would be.

Independant control of:
1.) Compressor
2.) Rear
3.) Front

Alternative could be:
1.) Compressor
2.) Rear
3.) Rear and Front (I would prefer to be able to control these independantly)

Cruiserhead
06-14-2005, 12:22 PM
Vegas,
The diff lock dial is a stock Land Cruiser FZJ80 item (91-97)
this is what it looks like:
http://sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_locker.htm

and you would still need a seperate switch for the compressor. Having the RR--->FR/RR is the recommended way to lock up.
You really don't want to lock the front only. You could also wire the rotary dial so the RR Diff Lock turns on the compressor--->FR/RR turns on the RR Locker. This would be a good solution for RR diff locked rigs (FR locker is not avail to us yet)
You can purchase the FZJ80 switch through a Toyota dealer or SOR.com

For factory 4th gen switches:
1. The RR DIFF LOCK is a 05 Tacoma part
2. The 115V is stock 03-05 4R part
They also backlight at night. The little LED is the DIFF LOCK ON light. The factory switch doesnt have a light (b/c the Diff Lock lights up in the speedo gauge area on the Taco). Once I get the Front locker, switch will go there and the LED's will be moved somewhere else (dunno where yet).

You can use the 115V or the Rear Defrost switch from the GX470 (which also has it's own 'on' light). I kinda like the Defrost as it sortof looks like squiggly air lines going into a tank ;)
but the 115V makes sense to me too, in some odd way :p
Factory switches are not cheap- you can get a discount if you know someone. Wiring isn't standard so it's ALOT more work to make it look stock as I did. It seems like I always need to make life difficult for myself in every little mod I do:p

Don't forget, ARB comes with nice FR, RR and Compressor switches. Backlit and very good looking. You can use these and they look very good. The only downside is you have to trim the holes bigger. Here is a sample:
http://homepage.mac.com/paintlab/.Public/P1010002.JPG

Vegas Runner
06-14-2005, 02:14 PM
Don't forget, ARB comes with nice FR, RR and Compressor switches.[/b] Backlit and very good looking. You can use these and they look very good. The only downside is you have to trim the holes bigger.


I may end up using the ARB switches. They are good looking but IMO not as good as the factory. Your installation is pretty sweet. But at the price of the factory switches, plus the fact that there is no "on" indicator light on the Tacoma "RR Diff Lock switch", plus the fact that the 4runner "AC 110V" switch is not the right label, plus if I add front lockers I will have yet another switch with the wrong label, I may go with the ARB switches and save myself a lot of headaches.

Thanks for your tips.

Vegas Runner
06-14-2005, 04:31 PM
I just got word about the release date for the front ARB locker for the 4runner. See email from ARB below:

Our eta from engineering is now that production will be done in August.

Jim Jackson
President
ARB-USA
20 South Spokane St
Seattle, WA 98134
Tel: 206 264-1669
Fax: 206 264-1670
www.arbusa.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Edward Giandomenico
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2005 7:39 PM
To: jjackson@arbusa.com
Subject: ARB Front Air Locker for 2003 (4th Generation) 4Runner

Hi Jim,

Is there any word out when a front locker will be available for the 2003 (4th Generation) 4Runner. I would be interested in purchasing one if they were available.

bulldog
06-14-2005, 05:27 PM
Excellent news, hope they are out in the US before the end of year.

Cruiserhead
06-14-2005, 09:01 PM
Vegas,
Nice work contacting them. I heard actual sale will be closer to Christmas but whatever- anytime this year will be good! :cool1:

The Part # is RD111 for the front locker, RD23 for the rear locker

Cruiserhead
06-14-2005, 09:05 PM
I may end up using the ARB switches.

I may go with the ARB switches and save myself a lot of headaches.

Thanks for your tips.

Vegas,
Yeah I'm just super anal about that... created alot of extra work with those switches but really happy w/ the result.

The ARB switches are excellent tho. They look and feel Toyota-worthy:cool1: You will just have to cut out some of the inside of the panel- you can see inside the hole in my photo above. None of the cutting will be exposed, just enough to give room for the switch to push into the dash.

The ARB wiring harness makes plugging everything a snap. I recommend buying all ARB (instead of a different compressor) b/c it comes w/ all directions and wiring harness/switch.

Post up when you decide to do the install!

05sport4x4
11-28-2005, 12:22 PM
I just received this information regarding the front ARB locker for the 4 Gen 4Runner:

"We will have our first shipment of the RD111 in mid-December. You can place an order now with a dealer.


Jim Jackson

President
ARB-USA
720 SW 34TH STREET
RENTON, WA 98055-4814
Tel: 425-264-1391
Fax: 425-264-1392"


Who will be the first here to get one?? ;)

bulldog
11-28-2005, 02:13 PM
Cool!!!!! :bigok: Now I need to get into action with gears, so I can install them all at the same time.

TroutRunner
11-30-2005, 04:44 PM
Cool!!!!! :bigok: Now I need to get into action with gears, so I can install them all at the same time.

Does this mean your looking to increase tire size with the regearing? Do our trucks need to regear with what appears to be the max of 33" tires?

TR

Joel
11-30-2005, 08:01 PM
I have close to 33's and I wouldn't say regearing is needed, but would be nice to maybe get a bit of gass milage back and to prevent gear hunting on the freeway on slight grades. It would also give you a lower low for off road excursions.

Does this mean your looking to increase tire size with the regearing? Do our trucks need to regear with what appears to be the max of 33" tires?

TR

bulldog
12-01-2005, 12:51 AM
Does this mean your looking to increase tire size with the regearing? Do our trucks need to regear with what appears to be the max of 33" tires?

TR

I want to do a single job when opening the diffs for lockers. 33" can be run without regearing, but I would like get lower gearing for offroad (also get some extra pep on the road :bigok: ). Once I can get bumpers I will go to 33" MT/Rs. However going to 4.56 gears will pave the way for the future for bigger tires when my rig retires from DD. Might never happen, but I want to keep my options open.

The stock 3.73 gears is not ideal for 33" tires, the 5 speed auto is really good and hides the tall diff gears. 4.1s are probably the ideal ratio for 33", but a little lower gears will help even more offroad.

EDIT: Also once all the armour (bumpers, sliders, skids) and addtions (cargo, dual batt, fridge, etc) are added the 4R will easliy weight more than 600lb more than stock. So with bigger tires a bit of compensation will help a lot.

Vegas Runner
06-21-2006, 06:48 PM
James, I am wiring up my ARB dash switch and am looking for a power source that is only on when the key is in the accessory position and engine running position that I can tap into for my switch illumination. Do you know of a good power source to tap into?

05sport4x4
06-21-2006, 07:30 PM
James, I am wiring up my ARB dash switch and am looking for a power source that is only on when the key is in the accessory position and engine running position that I can tap into for my switch illumination. Do you know of a good power source to tap into?


James actually sold his old setup to me. When I installed the switches I attached the dash light to this plug with 2 large blue wires in it, I tapped into the blue with yellow strip for the dimmed dash light.


This is the dash light power
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a111/05sport4x4/Hanna%20Sliders%20Nov%202005/ARBswitch001-1.jpg

Tapped blue/yellow wire
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a111/05sport4x4/Hanna%20Sliders%20Nov%202005/ARBswitch004.jpg

This is what the setup looks like
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a111/05sport4x4/Hanna%20Sliders%20Nov%202005/ARBswitch005.jpg
The AC 115V switch powers on/off the compressor.


As for the main switched power I have to look again.

AlexJet
06-21-2006, 07:35 PM
I can't see the pictures in first post. :(

Vegas Runner
06-21-2006, 08:41 PM
James actually sold his old setup to me. When I installed the switches I attached the dash light to this plug with 2 large blue wires in it, I tapped into the blue with yellow strip for the dimmed dash light.

This is the dash light power



Excellent!!!!!! I love this forum.

Vegas Runner
06-21-2006, 09:28 PM
As for the main switched power I have to look again.


Let me know when you find the main switched power. Thanks.

05sport4x4
06-21-2006, 10:03 PM
I looked again after it took the pictures but I need to pull off the fascia piece. I will have to do it at home probably on Friday. I know I just tested and found a wire that was ignition hot and tapped it. I don’t think the switch needs much power as it just activates a relay. I will let you know.

Vegas Runner
06-21-2006, 10:06 PM
I was thinking that the cig lighter would be a good one to draw from because that is probably pretty robust. A heater element draws a lot of current. I have also noticed that the lighter outlets dont work unless the ignition is on. Unfortunately I have not been able to locate it.

Cruiserhead
06-22-2006, 12:24 AM
John, good pics there. I forgot how slick my locker setup was ;)

Vegas Runner,
I pretty much forgot how I wired everything. But I wire thru a little fusebox and I tapped one of the fuses for the switch... I will be more help when I get my website working and updated again.

AlexJet
06-22-2006, 06:14 AM
I want to do a single job when opening the diffs for lockers. 33" can be run without regearing, but I would like get lower gearing for offroad (also get some extra pep on the road :bigok: ). Once I can get bumpers I will go to 33" MT/Rs. However going to 4.56 gears will pave the way for the future for bigger tires when my rig retires from DD. Might never happen, but I want to keep my options open.

The stock 3.73 gears is not ideal for 33" tires, the 5 speed auto is really good and hides the tall diff gears. 4.1s are probably the ideal ratio for 33", but a little lower gears will help even more offroad.

EDIT: Also once all the armour (bumpers, sliders, skids) and addtions (cargo, dual batt, fridge, etc) are added the 4R will easliy weight more than 600lb more than stock. So with bigger tires a bit of compensation will help a lot.

I thought that re-gearing will down your speed. It might make driving easier for the engine, but you'd have to get higher RPM to maintain same highway speed. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like it will kill consumption and raise the noise level. What are the benefits of re-gearing and what the disadvantages are?

bulldog
06-22-2006, 12:03 PM
I thought that re-gearing will down your speed. It might make driving easier for the engine, but you'd have to get higher RPM to maintain same highway speed. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like it will kill consumption and raise the noise level. What are the benefits of re-gearing and what the disadvantages are?
You regear for bigger tires. The problem is that when you fit larger tires you shift the engine speed vs road speed beyond the original design of the vehicle. SO the engine ends up working harder in most cases and use more fuel. Frequent downshifting is normally the first symptom you will notice. Tall gears are good for gas mileage, but too tall actually hurt it more than a bit shorter.

Most people that regear after fitting larger tires, find that their gas mileage improve. True gas mileage that is after correcting for speedo/odo changes, etc.

AlexJet
06-22-2006, 12:15 PM
Is it nessessary to re-gear with 285/70-R17 or 305/70-R17?

K6UK
06-23-2006, 03:01 AM
I'm not having a problem with power at all with my 285s, if you told me the truck was regeared already I might believe you. But if gears came out, I would definately do them when I do my lockers. Mostly for gas milage.

-Mike