Shrockworks Bumper v2.0 (lots of pictures)

[Duc Hunter]

Well it is in!!!!! From the pictures it looks like I have the first V2.0 bumper. There do not seem to be to many changes, mostly the ones people with V1.0 requested for an easier install. I must reiterate what others have said about their Shrockworks bumpers. The craftsmanship is wonderful! The look and feel is first rate. Functionally it is designed perfectly. It was relatively easy to install, given what you are doing.

My g/f and I started this project at 2pm Saturday with only a floor jack we wound up not using. We have everything done except the side covers and skid plates by 5:45, and we were not working in a rush. The only installation issues we had were, in order if difficulty; 1)Mounting the bumper on the mounts. I lifted it up into place, she then helped support it and then the fun started. The brackets are a VERY snug fit to the bumper. This is a good thing, but make installing it tougher. We had to get one side BARELY pushed inside the mount, and then get the other side in. After looking at the floor jack we decided by hand was the easiest way. In the end that is how I would do it again too. The only better way would be an engine hoist. 2) Getting the fog lights to work. Dumb-ass me, who has wired way too many lights to remember, did not read the directions on which way they went (White/Green & Black/Black-White). So after blowing 7 15 amp fuses doing trial and error and melting some of the factory wiring on the drivers side after trying a 30amp fuse I gave the directions to the g/f, and she told me what to do. When I dutifully listened it worked!

A few points of interest; 1) the gap you see is as low as it goes, without a rubber mallet. That is as low as I could get it using my 200+lbs on it. The drivers side is more flush with the side of the fender than the passenger side. There is NO left/right movement on the bumper at all. This is probably because the beads of weld on the brackets where the 3 factory bolts in a row are, that they interfere with the factory bolts, we could not get enough play in the brackets to get them wide enough to get the bumper on until I backed those bolts WELL out. 2) You can see the redesigned blinker install. There is a bracket on the backside of the bumper that holds the blinkers now. Though they are not flush the look great (match the fog lights more) and work great. 3) I did not use the recommended method of drilling and installing the 3/8” bolts to hold it in place once you have it where you want it. I have jumped in the bumper and it does not move at all so I decided not to drill, and there by compromise the powder coat and create a spot for rust to live. 4) The winch (XD9k) is not here yet so it will go in from the top…..I hope. :bs:

One thing that seems wrong, and it is not Shrock’s fault at all. My drivers side PIAA seems great. The problem is the passenger side is no where near as bright or as yellow or have the same beam pattern. When you look at them with your eyes they seem very similar, but on the road or shining against a wall they are clearly not. Any thoughts? No, it does not have to do with the above mentioned wiring issues, as they are drawing the same amperage etc. :pissed2:

Now for the PICTURES!

Oh, PS, I will measure the ride height now for everyone, I just want to let it settle a bit.

Left side, see how flush it is?
http://www.pbase.com/mrcjb60290/image/90149581.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/mrcjb60290/image/90149578.jpg

Right side, see how much more it sticks out?
http://www.pbase.com/mrcjb60290/image/90149580.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/mrcjb60290/image/90149579.jpg

Now for the fun
http://www.pbase.com/mrcjb60290/image/90149577.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/mrcjb60290/image/90149575.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/mrcjb60290/image/90149574.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/mrcjb60290/image/90149572.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/mrcjb60290/image/90149571.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/mrcjb60290/image/90149570.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/mrcjb60290/image/90149569.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/mrcjb60290/image/90149567.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/mrcjb60290/image/90149564.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/mrcjb60290/image/90149560/jpg
:deadhorse

[AlexJet]

Looking good.....:cool1:

[joshua]

Looks good. I wouldn't sweat it not being perfectly even on both sides. It's a rig, it'll always have flaws.

They're fun the first time you slam them into something. =)

[BillBrasky]

It looks good to me, too. I agree on not sweating the 1/4". Your bumper is a ton more "fitted" to your truck than the ARB i had ever was to mine. No one will notice but you, anyway.

[Duc Hunter]

Thanks guys. I am not sweating the different gaps, this thing fits FAR better than most custom built stuff does, it just seemed strange no one mentioned theirs were not the same so I thought I would mention it. I am sweating more though the lack of a gap to the body, the PIAA’s providing such a different light color and pattern to one another, and the Lightforce wiring.

For the Lightforce’s, I used the PIAA harness which was great. To power the switch you are suppose to use something that is only on when your high beams are, which is how I like it. So I tapped into the positive wire on the drivers side high beam at the headlight itself. Only problem, both high and low beam seem to have power (+) when the key is one, and then they get grounded when the high beam switch is kicked on. This means my setup won’t work they way I want (meaning once I turn the driving light switch on the Lightforce's work in concert with the high beams). Lastly is just to find a good spot to run wires through the firewall.

[Mikestang]

Sweet, I bet you're stoked!

[Joel]

For the Lightforce’s, I used the PIAA harness which was great. To power the switch you are suppose to use something that is only on when your high beams are, which is how I like it. So I tapped into the positive wire on the drivers side high beam at the headlight itself. Only problem, both high and low beam seem to have power (+) when the key is one, and then they get grounded when the high beam switch is kicked on. This means my setup won’t work they way I want (meaning once I turn the driving light switch on the Lightforce's work in concert with the high beams). Lastly is just to find a good spot to run wires through the firewall.

Check out this post/thread for info on this:
http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showpost.php?p=10882&postcount=50

Looks great! :bigok:

[bulldog]

Looking good. :bigok:

WOnt give you a hard time about your install as you admit not beign a good reader :flipoff: But one of the things that was covered was to not toghtent down the brackets completely before fitting the bumper. I remember it being discussed int he Shrockworks installation thread. This makes life much easier to fit the bumper. I couln't even get mine on without doing that. :D

Another question, does the SW 2.0 bumper now have check bolts in the bumper and bracket to prevent it from shifting when you winch? Or does it only have the 4 bolts on each side with elongated holes?

[JAM07Sport]

If you think the bumper sticking out a little is bad my arb is about a 1/4 in short on both sides. If something would ever hit the front corner I'll lose a fender before the bumper hits. I think it looks pretty good. Is it reccommened to install a body lift with those bumpers. The gap looks pretty tight at the fender. Just asking because I set my arb to high at first and it rubbed the paint of the fender lip I guess just from viberation going down the road.

[AlexJet]

If you think the bumper sticking out a little is bad my arb is about a 1/4 in short on both sides. If something would ever hit the front corner I'll lose a fender before the bumper hits. I think it looks pretty good. Is it reccommened to install a body lift with those bumpers. The gap looks pretty tight at the fender. Just asking because I set my arb to high at first and it rubbed the paint of the fender lip I guess just from viberation going down the road.

Side note:
I have LC rebuilt Sahara bumper from ARB and it sticks out 1/2" both sides, has small gap, but never rubbed the paint from the fenders.
Sorry, for off-topic note.

[BillBrasky]

This might be a dumb question, but on the PIAA's, are you wired in series, or parallel? I've seen some lights wired in parallel that did what you are describing.

Another posible culprit may be a weak or under-powered batt. Especially if you are wired in parallel. If you are wired in series, they should both be equally dim if the batt was the problem, though.

I know that when I slapped a new batt in my truck (replaced stock), lots of things changed for the better. Most noticeable were how much quicker the truck started (how much less the starter had to work to turn th engine over), better CB performance and brighter spot lights (yes, you could actually see a difference, they are 100w IPF 968's). And that stock Toy batt I replaced was less than 1 year old.

Just a thought. Like I said, may be stupid questions, but I'm just throwing things up against the wall to see what sticks.

[bulldog]

This might be a dumb question, but on the PIAA's, are you wired in series, or parallel? I've seen some lights wired in parallel that did what you are describing.

Another posible culprit may be a weak or under-powered batt. Especially if you are wired in parallel. If you are wired in series, they should both be equally dim if the batt was the problem, though.

I know that when I slapped a new batt in my truck (replaced stock), lots of things changed for the better. Most noticeable were how much quicker the truck started (how much less the starter had to work to turn th engine over), better CB performance and brighter spot lights (yes, you could actually see a difference, they are 100w IPF 968's). And that stock Toy batt I replaced was less than 1 year old.

Just a thought. Like I said, may be stupid questions, but I'm just throwing things up against the wall to see what sticks.


The link Joel posted covers the light wiring issue thoroughly. We had soem head scratching to do when we wired up the first batch.

On the 4Runner the hihg and low beam circuits (2 sperate bulbs) are powered with 12V when you turn on the lights, then when you turn on the highbeams the highbeams bulbs ground circuit is completed. So to make it work you need to hack the PIAA harness a little different than normal.

Oh yeah DUc Hunter the best place to run wires into the cabin is using the existing wiring rubber plugs in the firewall. I think there is even a smaller spare one on the driver side to use. Just run a hard wire through to pull your wiring with.

[Duc Hunter]

Wont give you a hard time about your install as you admit not being a good reader :flipoff: But one of the things that was covered was to not tighten down the brackets completely before fitting the bumper. I remember it being discussed int he Shrockworks installation thread. This makes life much easier to fit the bumper. I couldn’t even get mine on without doing that. :)

Um, If you read my blurb I believe I said they were loose, in fact they were as loose as they could be, esp the certain factory bolts because the weld beads are so nice and thick they interfere with the bolts going flush to the plate that mounts them to the frame. No the issue was purely that the brackets are a very tight fit, which is good. :bow:

To your other question BD, they do have a place for those bolts (3/8"). I chose not to use them as drilling into them means compromising the powder coat and giving rust a start. Here in Florida that can be a big deal. When I jump on the bumper it does not move, so I should be fine. If not, they can always be added later.

No one noticed how different the blinkers now are. I thought that would get comments for sure?

This might be a dumb question, but on the PIAA's, are you wired in series, or parallel? Another possible culprit may be a weak or under-powered batt. Especially if you are wired in parallel. If you are wired in series, they should both be equally dim if the batt was the problem, though.
Just a thought. Like I said, may be stupid questions, but I'm just throwing things up against the wall to see what sticks.

Not stupid at all. They are wired to the stock harness. So I am not sure, since no one else has mentioned these issues it must be on my end, maybe a bad set of lights. I will switch them left/right and see if the problem moves with the lights or not. As for the battery, it is the stock one from 2004, but seems to be working just fine. I knew I should have seen if Lightforce 140's would fit in there?!!!! :deadhorse

The link Joel posted covers the light wiring issue thoroughly. We had some head scratching to do when we wired up the first batch. On the 4Runner the high and low beam circuits (2 separate bulbs) are powered with 12V when you turn on the lights, then when you turn on the high beams the high beams bulbs ground circuit is completed. So to make it work you need to hack the PIAA harness a little different than normal. Oh yeah Duc Hunter the best place to run wires into the cabin is using the existing wiring rubber plugs in the firewall. I think there is even a smaller spare one on the driver side to use. Just run a hard wire through to pull your wiring with.

I will look. I see the plug that all of the stock wires run through and found a plug that goes into the area above the foot well and under the windshield. I will keep look and review Joel’s post.

Thanks for all of the good complements and assistance!

[Duc Hunter]

Check out this post/thread for info on this:
http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showpost.php?p=10882&postcount=50

Looks great! :bigok:

Joel, DEAD ON BALLS ACCURATE! Thank you! I cannot wait to rewire it.

Now about those PIAA lights and their issues.....LOL!

[ToyFamily]

Good to see you are happy with the bumper.

As for the lack of gap, if you unbolt one of the 1/2" bolts and shine a flashlight in the hole you can see if the slotting is maxed out or if you have any room to move down. The slotting is designed to give you more gap than that and we haven't heard anyone else having this issue. To get it to move, it needs to be jarred, gradual weight or dropping your weight on it doesn't work all the time (bond up). Lots of times we need to "get a little more violent" with the body weight. Justin and I are the ones doing installs here and we're about 155lbs. so you can imagine..... the monkey..:flipoff:...football sight.. or smack it with a mallet or dead blow (place rags between the bumper and mallet).

And the left to right gap most often is due to body alignment on the frame. Not that we never make mistakes but the bumper is jigged up as it is built. We have seen this on several never Tacomas and after measuring off the frame the body had been off up to 5/16".

Looks good,

Nick

[Duc Hunter]

I will loosen it up and break out the rubber mallet. I am 220lbs and tried coaxing it with all my weight jumping on it. You are right, sometimes the sharpness of a mallet blow moves things better. I assume after removing the 1/2" bolt and looking I need to loses the other two, then break out the mallet? I am not worried about the left/right thing. If/when I do a body lift I will look at it, or I may losen them up and set the body straight. We will see.

It does look good. I have not spooled it out and pulled a load on it yet to set the rope, but dam is it nice! These light are the BEST I HAVE EVER USED TOO! And they do not need any straps to stay stable.

Here are a few shots with the winch installed.
See the nice safety thimble? Very nice to have! Get one!
http://www.pbase.com/mrcjb60290/image/91525582.jpg

With the hood closed, from the top you can see the winch, but not operate it.
http://www.pbase.com/mrcjb60290/image/91525583.jpg

From the side with the hood closed.
http://www.pbase.com/mrcjb60290/image/91525584.jpg

Hood open to use the winch. Notice the hole for a remote winch solenoid plug? Very nice, and I will add one soon.
http://www.pbase.com/mrcjb60290/image/91525585.jpg

My only issue. The wire to ground the Warn Solenoid is suppose to be connected to the ground wire (on the front of the winch motor) wont reach. It is about 2 inches too short. I could fix this by turning the solenoid 180 degrees, but that makes the other wires harder to run and they would be touching or very close to the winch motor. During heavy use this could melt them as the motor will get hot. So just keep in mind you will need to lengthen this. I have tried a few chassis grounds the wire will reach. Non are strong enough to make the winch work consistently.
http://www.pbase.com/mrcjb60290/image/91525586.jpg

[Yabedude]

The body wiggle that occurs on my rig between ARB and front body would suggest damage would occur using the little gap in your install. How is your body (beneath lights) protected from damage?

[Duc Hunter]

The body wiggle that occurs on my rig between ARB and front body would suggest damage would occur using the little gap in your install. How is your body (beneath lights) protected from damage?

I am not sure what you mean by protected? Can you clear up what you mean?

I wonder where the best spots are to hit it with the rubber mallet to get it down. ..........funny aren't we guys more worried about making sure we get it up, never had to worry about getting it down........ :jester:

[Joel]

Loosen the brackets (yes it's a pain, but it frees up the bumper) and shake the bumper from the middle tube. They should settle it down.

[ToyFamily]

After checking the slot

If you try the center hoop shake, make sure to watch the wings on the fenders.

I usually hit it on the corner of the side tube...or right near the base of it. Remember to double up a towel on the bumper where you will hit it as to not marr the powdercoating.

Joel...are those fiberglass fenders? Got any full pics? send em my way. Nick@shrockworks.com

Nick

[Yabedude]

I am not sure what you mean by protected? Can you clear up what you mean?


I just meant that when I hit a pothole, for example, the ARB "appears" to jiggle or rock and if my bumper was as close to the body as yours is, I'm sure it would crumple the aluminium or plastic or whatever is just under the head lamps. The bumber doesn't actually move as it's attached to the frame, but the body does as it's sitting on rubber mounts.

ARB had recommended that there be a 1" gap. When I raise my bumper back up (after body lift was installed), I'm going to set it to about 1/2" this time (someone else on here had explained that's what their SW bumper was set to without incident) as the 1" gap was too large. So my concern with yours is that you appear to have something like only a 1/8" gap which, if on my rig, would most likely cause damage.

[Crozhawk]

take a look at mine.

http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1742&page=4

I believe the gap on mine is about the minimum you should have. ....roughly a half inch. BTW, mine also has the new front mounting plates and the newer sidemarkers if that's what you meant by version 2.0.

You may not have an issue if you don't wheel it hard. but if you flex it, you could damage the fenders/body and so forth. ....just offering my :2cents

....rig looks great!

[Yabedude]

I'm with Crozhawk regarding the required spacing.:2cents

[Tucson T4R]

I agree with the 1/2" spacing. I installed 1/2" body lift to ensure I could get the spacing I wanted. Since mine was adjusted to 1/2" it has never contacted the body in a wide variety of offroad conditions. Me happy. :)

[Duc Hunter]

Ok guys, looks like tomorrow I will loosen it up, remove the 1/2 bolts and see what I can get out of it. I will let you al know.

Croz, yeah that is what I meant by 2.0,