HDPE Front Skid [Archive] - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

Joel

02-02-2006, 02:29 PM

Starting a new thread as to not clog up the other..

Decided to make my own skid plate using high density polyethylene. This was done on TraiLex..

http://fourwheeler.com/projectbuild/129_0503_tlex_04_z.jpg

First I made a template out of cardboard to get an idea of the size I'd need. Then I got a a 24in x 62in x 1/2in piece cut at my local pastic shop and the longer hardware.

Here are some pics..

http://joelrasmus.com/gallery/g2data/albums/rides/t4r/skid/DSC_8792.JPG

http://joelrasmus.com/gallery/g2data/albums/rides/t4r/skid/DSC_8793.JPG

http://joelrasmus.com/gallery/g2data/albums/rides/t4r/skid/DSC_8794.JPG

http://joelrasmus.com/gallery/g2data/albums/rides/t4r/skid/DSC_8796.JPG

The project isn't complete. I need to finish bolting up the back and add some bling (breather holes) to the front.

Cruiserhead

02-02-2006, 02:57 PM

Joel, tell me how it works. I've been bugging Andries about doing this exact thing for a looooong time and he just laughs. :nono: ;)

Only concern is if weight is put on it, it may rip out of the bolts or distort there... look into some wide washers or metal shims to reinforce the area of the mounting bolts- maybe ont he backside (if the current setup starts to tweak)

Nice work! give more progress details

Maybe put a jack under it and jack it up to see how it holds up under weight

bulldog

02-02-2006, 03:30 PM

Looks very interesting, would be good to see how it turns out.

Will love to see how it works out on the trail and holds up. Keep us posted.

Joel

02-02-2006, 03:34 PM

I think if you guys had a 1/2inch thick piece of this in your hands you wouldn't be as skeptical. I'll finish it off and do some good tests of it and let you guys know..

Cruiserhead

02-02-2006, 04:20 PM

joel,
I'm not skeptical at all i just pointed to some areas that might need a little r+d

I think it will work great- desert trucks use this stuff all the time

for rocks+production suv's, it is new so you will be one of th e pioneers :cool1:

andries is the skeptical one! :rotflmao:

bulldog

02-02-2006, 04:32 PM

Hey, I'm skeptical of everything, but I'm also all for trying new things :bigok:

I know the material is extremely tough. My concern is with the fact that it is flexable and the stress it will put in the bolt areas and on the bolts itself as well. Also with removing and refitting it for maintenance/repair to the 4R. That is why I thought a steel frame with skid areas made of this might be a good idea. Just some random thoughts, but give it a good tryout, you might be onto something really great.

Cruiserhead

02-02-2006, 04:36 PM

Lots of possibilities since it is so easy to mill also. I will watch this thread with alot of enthusiasm, may help jump start my modding as well
:bigok:

Hey if you can change Andries mind, I'll be impressed! :P ;) :bigok:

Joel

02-03-2006, 11:38 AM

http://joelrasmus.com/gallery/g2data/albums/rides/t4r/skid/DSC_8798.JPG

http://joelrasmus.com/gallery/g2data/albums/rides/t4r/skid/DSC_8800.JPG

Going to add some type of heat shielding between here. I'm sure its fine, but I want to be sure.
http://joelrasmus.com/gallery/g2data/albums/rides/t4r/skid/DSC_8801.JPG

http://joelrasmus.com/gallery/g2data/albums/rides/t4r/skid/DSC_8804.JPG

Not sure if I'm going to add the vent holes. Just seems like another place to hang up on a rock (and possibly damage the skid). I'll just keep an eye on temps and see if it's effected at all.

I'll test it on a rock other than my own :D
Will update in a few days..

bulldog

02-03-2006, 04:58 PM

Looks good :bigok: , you might just convert an old skeptic like myself :rotflmao:

How difficult is it to bend the HDPE like that? Will it cause a weakness in the long run and/or be a PITA to take of for service/repairs?

FTBjoe87

02-03-2006, 06:31 PM

is it possible to get a straight edge bend in that stuff? When you have it come up to the front instead of having a slight bend like you do can you have it as a sharper bend? Thanks

my034runner

02-03-2006, 06:45 PM

Looks good Joel, I might so something like that on the front, but my mechanic is going to put some full fledged armor underneath. I'll let you know how it goes.
:devil:

Joel

02-04-2006, 10:08 AM

How difficult is it to bend the HDPE like that? Will it cause a weakness in the long run and/or be a PITA to take of for service/repairs?

It wasn't hard to bend and I'm sure bending it doesn't cause a weakness. The hard part was getting the holes in the right spot. I'm sure it will be a slight PITA to take it off for oil changes, but I'm willing to deal with that. I assume as time goes on it may "learn" the bend and will be less difficult. Basically bolt the front, jack the back, bolt that back.

Joel

02-04-2006, 10:09 AM

is it possible to get a straight edge bend in that stuff? When you have it come up to the front instead of having a slight bend like you do can you have it as a sharper bend? Thanks

I let it bend how it wanted while allowing me to bolt it down. I think to do a straight edge angle, you'd have to have two pieces and some knowledge of plastic welding.

bulldog

02-04-2006, 11:39 AM

Cool :bigok:

Keep us posted how it works, looks like it can be an alternative to the old fashioned steel approach. At least you wont have to deal with rust issues and painting.

expat

02-04-2006, 01:49 PM

http://joelrasmus.com/gallery/g2data/albums/rides/t4r/skid/DSC_8804.JPG

Is there a way to turn up the trailing edge? If you climb over an obstacle and then have to back off (eg 3 point turn) you might have a problem with that trailing edge getting caught up. I know when I was at Big Bear a while back, I got caught up after climbing some rocks. Backing up (actually a recovery) got the crossmember crunching rock while reversing up. That trailing edge might tear off in the same situation.

Just thoughts. Not criticism. I like your prototype very much.

This weekend I was supposed to be doing the rounds of a few fab places but I did my back in yesterday so I'm laid up presently :(

Joel

02-07-2006, 04:51 PM

I think with a longer piece of material, some heat and patience you could put a decent curve into the material. If the rock had any angle to it the center part of the plastic would flex some possibly helping get back onto the rock. Also the lower friction of the plastic would help some also. Overall, I'm sure I didn't lost more than an inch on clearance in this spot.

A better solution would be to fab a crossmember to go after the transfercase so the skid could cover it completely. I think this will be the direction I take on my next go around at this, till then I'm quite happy with the additional protection I achieved with a $90 piece of plastic.

bulldog

02-08-2006, 12:35 AM

Cool keep us posted on how it develops and tests out.

my034runner

02-17-2006, 10:25 AM

Thanks Joel for the info on Piper Plastic. I went and saw Ross there yesterday and picked up some HDPE for my034runner. I went with the Black (color matching) while a bit thinner- less than an 1/8" less, it still has almost the same rigidity. We'll bolt it up on Sunday. I'll try and take some photos this time and actually put them up. :D :cool1:

Mikestang

06-27-2006, 12:58 AM

How are these things holding up?

my034runner

06-27-2006, 10:19 AM

How are these things holding up?

Mine is holding up unbelievably!!! :bigok: :banana: The best $90.00 I've ever spent!! :cow:

expat

07-05-2006, 02:26 PM

Joel

07-05-2006, 02:38 PM

Give ABC Plastics a shout. (818) 775-0065. They have 1/2" and will cut.

expat

07-05-2006, 02:38 PM

Great, thanks Joel! :)

Mikestang

07-05-2006, 11:31 PM

Then I got a a 24in x 62in x 1/2in

A few ?'s:
Was that a perfect fit? Any trimming needed? Would a longer piece be of use to make a full (or almost full) length belly cover? Do you happen to have exact measurements where to drill the holes in the hdpe? I can see myself doing this and ending up with a piece of swiss cheese.

Joel

07-06-2006, 09:33 AM

I didn't need to trim anything. That size will go from where the stock one starts to the crossmember behind the transmission. I plan on adding another crossmember behind the transfercase and using a longer piece very soon. I don't plan on going to the bar in front of the radiator since the shrockworks bumper is going to come with a piece for there. Drilling the holes in the correct spot is the hardest part. I made a template, started with small holes, and went from there. It was a bit of a pain, but it worked in the end. I recommend some nice big fender washers also.

Mikestang

07-06-2006, 04:18 PM

Going to add some type of heat shielding between here. I'm sure its fine, but I want to be sure.
http://joelrasmus.com/gallery/g2data/albums/rides/t4r/skid/DSC_8801.JPG

Did you ever add any heat shielding here?

Joel

07-06-2006, 04:21 PM

Nope, didn't end up being needed. I've skidded along this area a few times also. This plastic is some amazingly durable stuff!

Mikestang

07-06-2006, 04:53 PM

Yea, my wife has a cutting board made out of it. Now every time I'm in the kitchen I can't help but think, "I wonder if I could bolt that thing up somewhere". I don't think she'd appreciate it. :nono:

Thanks for the replies.

expat

07-06-2006, 05:17 PM

...every time I'm in the kitchen I can't help but think, "I wonder if I could bolt that thing up somewhere". I don't think she'd appreciate it. :nono:

Thanks for the replies.

As long as you gave back to her after your used it, I'm sure she'd be cool with it. :rotflmao:

tour4fun

07-07-2006, 12:45 PM

Ok, I need some of this stuff. Where can I go get it in SoCal? What types of shops have it? I rang the local Tupperware dealer but she could only sell me front and rear bumpers :P

Remember I'm pretty new to the US so a description like "a plastic shop" won't help me much.

Thanks.

Mark

Not in Socal, but they have a big selection. I've only bought check valves from them a loooong time ago.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/category.asp?catalog_name=USPlastic&Category_Name=62&Page=1

expat

07-07-2006, 03:43 PM

Not in Socal, but they have a big selection. I've only bought check valves from them a loooong time ago.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/category.asp?catalog_name=USPlastic&Category_Name=62&Page=1

Thx Joyce. Joel stitch me up with ABC plastics (posted above) who are nearby. Just not sure whether to wait for the bullbar first and see what they have come up for the skid plate they are supplying, before I buy the cutting board.

sibanez

07-18-2006, 01:35 PM

I just picked up my giant cutting board for $58 from a local supply shop. I had to get white, but I figure the scratches and mud will cover it soon enough.

BTW, the piece I got was 24"x70" . . . I'm going to try a little experiment with the extra.

Joel

07-18-2006, 01:53 PM

Thats a really good price. What thickness did you go with?

sibanez

07-18-2006, 01:58 PM

3/8 inch . . I was going go with a half, but the guys who run the plastic shop I bought it at told me the difference in strength was minimal. The plastic gurus seemed pretty impressed with the strength of the plastic, so we'll see.

expat

10-13-2006, 09:26 PM

So Joel and Robert and anyone else who uses this stuff...

How do you think the plastic board is holding up now you've had it a while?

Would you consider a steel aftermarket product or are you very happy with the plastic?

I need to organise something before next weekend and I don't really want to go with the old skid plate. I looked into the plastic some time ago but never did anything about as I was waiting to see how the Shrockworks front skid was going to come out before deciding on anything else.

Also would you choose white or black - any advantages in either?

Your imput would be appreciated.

Cheers
Mark

expat

10-14-2006, 04:13 PM

Bump. Joel, Robert?

Joel

10-16-2006, 11:54 AM

I will probably switch to a steel solution once one is available that will cover the tcase. Mine has held up great. I'd say the only pain is dealing with mounting/removing to change the oil.

I have white as it was the only color they had in 1/2". Is sounds like the 3/8" black that Robert has is holding up great also.

my034runner

10-16-2006, 12:05 PM

Yeah, the 3/8" Black is holding up great. I am either going to get another piece that's a little wider so it can bolt up under the ShrockWork skid better, or wait until someone comes up with a viable alternative for our trucks that protect the t-case as well, like Joel said.
But, if I can get a piece that's wider and the same length that I have now, and somehow make some cross-member adapters to extend to or past the T-case, that would be better, as this stuff weighs nothing, but is as tough as rocks. :bow:

Teotwaki

10-16-2006, 01:30 PM

With a V6 I don't have a filter change issue but I would still have to remove my skid to drain the oil. I ordered a Fumoto drain valve with the hose nipple. I plan to drill a small hole in the skid and route a very short hose from the nipple to the bottom of the skid.

http://www.fumotousa.com/nseries.htm

expat

10-16-2006, 05:20 PM

I am either going to get another piece that's a little wider so it can bolt up under the ShrockWork skid better....

Just to clarify, you mean wider or thicker?

my034runner

10-16-2006, 05:38 PM

Just to clarify, you mean wider or thicker?

I think that I wrote Wider, didn't I? The thickness is just fine, no problems there. The piece that I have is not wide enough to make the bolt holes on the ShrockWorks skid, so getting a wider piece will allow me to bolt it right up. :bigok:

expat

10-16-2006, 07:43 PM

I think that I wrote Wider, didn't I? The thickness is just fine, no problems there. The piece that I have is not wide enough to make the bolt holes on the ShrockWorks skid, so getting a wider piece will allow me to bolt it right up. :bigok:

Yes Robert you did write wider but Joel had been talking about his being 1/2" and yours being 3/8" so hence my request for clarification.

I just wanted to be sure before I asked the next question....

How much wider do you recommend? What do you recommend the total length and width should be if you wanted to cover the transfer case too? I may do this mod this week but I don't want to waste money getting a wrong size. Do they in fact offer it in any width you want?

my034runner

10-16-2006, 08:32 PM

Yes Robert you did write wider but Joel had been talking about his being 1/2" and yours being 3/8" so hence my request for clarification.

I just wanted to be sure before I asked the next question....

How much wider do you recommend? What do you recommend the total length and width should be if you wanted to cover the transfer case too? I may do this mod this week but I don't want to waste money getting a wrong size. Do they in fact offer it in any width you want?

Crap, I don't remember what the length is. The one I have on there now is long enough to cover the T-case if I moved it down from it's current location. As it is now, I think that I need it to be at least 1 - 2 inches wider, that would suffice to bolt up properly to the SW skid.
And yes, they can cut it wider. It comes in big sheets, they just need measurements. If I come across my old receipt, I'll let you know what it was that I had it cut to.

Mikestang

10-16-2006, 10:26 PM

Then I got a a 24in x 62in x 1/2in piece cut at my local pastic shop and the longer hardware.
Does that sound about right? Or does your go forward of the stock front mounting location?

Joel

10-16-2006, 10:58 PM

Mine starts at the same point the shrockworks skid stops. It's also about the same width.

dsams

10-17-2006, 08:17 PM

do ya'll realize that you are using a skid plate made out of a material that is used in hip and knee replacement surgery? the "poly" your skid plates are made of is what we use in hip and knee reconstruction. it is a material we have used in orthopaedics for over 40 years!

I am glad to see that this very durable plastic has some other applications. I have to tell you that our enigineers will find it amusing that us offroaders are using it to protect our trucks.

and yes, it is very, very strong. this plastic is the articular surface betwen two metals in joint replacement surgery.

Dan

expat

10-17-2006, 09:51 PM

Interesting Dan. We are certainly not the innovators of this use for the material. I believe it has been used for quite some time by baja racers too. Great stuff. Hope to have time tomorrow after work to drop by ABC Plastics in Chatsworth and pick some up.

bulldog

07-31-2007, 11:16 PM

I was thinkign about this while looking at the skid 4x4labs made for my truck. They had to add a big "dimple" in the steel skid to contour around front diff, as it hangs slightly lower the an the crossmember. That made me think about RObert's thread where he busted one of the mounts on the front diff.

SO here is my question, does this skid prevent the diff from taking a hard blow, or will the diff take the force of such a hit? Likelyhood might be low (we don't all drive like Robert :P ), but has somebody checked if the skid stays below the diff and not transfer force to the diff?

expat

07-31-2007, 11:27 PM

There is a difference between a skid and armor as far as I am concerned.

BudBuilt, 4x4Labs etc., build armor that I expect to completely protect the parts they cover. The HDPE provides some protection from grazing but would never be expected to bear the weight of the truck.

Having said that, to answer you queston, the HDPE would transfer an amount of the force to the front diff. if you were to find yourself in that position.

BTW, my HDPE sheet lasted I think about 2 years then cracked where the left diff mount (the one that broke on Roberts truck) digs into the sheet as it changes angle to go upwards to the S/W S/S skid under the bumper.

So far it has served me reasonably well and I appreciate the light weight (and price) for my daily driver although I know I am ducking bullets when rock crawling. Pay to play! There will always be something!

bulldog

07-31-2007, 11:43 PM

Oh OK, maybe adding a plate to the crossmember can lower that contact point and protect the diff?

Like adding a piece of square tubing, drill 2 bi holes on one side and 2 smaller ones on the other, that line up to the mounting points on the frame crossmember. That should lower the hdpe sheet enough to protect the diff from most strikes.

expat

08-01-2007, 12:00 AM

mmm...not sure quite what you mean but there is about a 1/2" of space between the sheet and the diff. currently. Do you mean just some spacers between the sheet and the crossmember behin dthe diff where the sheet bolts up on both sides? If you were to hit it hard on a rock it would simply bend with some resistance (current setup). Lowering the sheet would prolly give a little more leeway but then your loosing a fair amount of clearance. Definitely doable.

"Possibly" you could run a steel bar from the (front) crossmember where the diff mounts are located, rearwards to the next crossmember. Either weld or bolt in with some effort. This would stop the sheet from flexing up to the diff.

Why are you asking? A specific line of thinking leading somewhere or just general thoughts/pondering?

bulldog

08-01-2007, 12:09 AM

Just general pondering, was running in the back of my mind.

I was think of just putting a pice to lower the skid with a strong piece of metal by 1" or so just in front of the diff housing, that should make mist impacts slide over.

my034runner

08-01-2007, 12:16 AM

I was thinking about this while looking at the skid 4x4labs made for my truck. They had to add a big "dimple" in the steel skid to contour around front diff, as it hangs slightly lower the an the crossmember. That made me think about Robert's thread where he busted one of the mounts on the front diff.

SO here is my question, does this skid prevent the diff from taking a hard blow, or will the diff take the force of such a hit? Likelihood might be low (we don't all drive like Robert :P ), but has somebody checked if the skid stays below the diff and not transfer force to the diff?

:flipoff: :jester:

Other than that remark, then that's a good observation and question.
I'd say the failure of my front diff mount bracket, was a direct cause of the constant, and sometimes, very extreme forces from the plastic pressing on the mount, and eventually, creating a hairline crack that eventually failed from sudden added pressure on the mount via the plastic.

So, yes, it would have an effect on the diff itself, it would seem.

But, diff's are pretty stout in general, look at the abuse the rear diff takes.:cool1:

There is a difference between a skid and armor as far as I am concerned.

BudBuilt, 4x4Labs etc., build armor that I expect to completely protect the parts they cover. The HDPE provides some protection from grazing but would never be expected to bear the weight of the truck.

Having said that, to answer you question, the HDPE would transfer an amount of the force to the front diff. if you were to find yourself in that position.

BTW, my HDPE sheet lasted I think about 2 years then cracked where the left diff mount (the one that broke on Roberts truck) digs into the sheet as it changes angle to go upwards to the S/W S/S skid under the bumper.

So far it has served me reasonably well and I appreciate the light weight (and price) for my daily driver although I know I am ducking bullets when rock crawling. Pay to play! There will always be something!

Mark is right. Also, the last straw on my plastic, was one one of our last Logandale trips, when, from either a big fu*king rock, or from indo'ing off of the red sand dunes, where the drivers side diff mount actually broke clean through and left a gaping hole.
But, it did serve it's purpose while awaiting for an aftermarket company to come up with the real deal.....RAW STEEL!!!!!!!!:rockon:

Oh OK, maybe adding a plate to the crossmember can lower that contact point and protect the diff?

Like adding a piece of square tubing, drill 2 bi holes on one side and 2 smaller ones on the other, that line up to the mounting points on the frame crossmember. That should lower the hdpe sheet enough to protect the diff from most strikes.

I was thinking about that as well. Seems if you could find a way to also lessen the amount of direct excess force on the diff support brackets as well, would be ideal. It could still all be accomplished for far less $$$ than either the BudBuilts or custom builds like 4x4 Labs.:rockon:

expat

08-01-2007, 12:24 AM

:flipoff: :jester:

Other than that remark, then that's a good observation and question.
I'd say the failure of my front diff mount bracket, was a direct cause of the constant, and sometimes, very extreme forces from the plastic pressing on the mount, and eventually, creating a hairline crack that eventually failed from sudden added pressure on the mount via the plastic.

So, yes, it would have an effect on the diff itself, it would seem.

But, diff's are pretty stout in general, look at the abuse the rear diff takes.:cool1:

Mark is right. Also, the last straw on my plastic, was one one of our last Logandale trips, when, from either a big fu*king rock, or from indo'ing off of the red sand dunes, where the drivers side diff mount actually broke clean through and left a gaping hole.
But, it did serve it's purpose while awaiting for an aftermarket company to come up with the real deal.....RAW STEEL!!!!!!!!:rockon:

I was thinking about that as well. Seems if you could find a way to also lessen the amount of direct excess force on the diff support brackets as well, would be ideal. It could still all be accomplished for far less $$$ than either the BudBuilts or custom builds like 4x4 Labs.:rockon:

I think my HDPE sheet failed simply due to time and the force applied to bend it around the diff mounts. Mine broke while I was driving on the hwy up to Sherman Pass. I pulled into town and observed that the skid had a crack in it. Did not bump or run into anything.

I would like to come up with a way to avoid placing force on the diff mounts but by the time I wasted getting that done, I'd prolly have enough money for some steel armor. Thing is it's just so darn heavy for a DD. Remember I've done nearly 70,000miles in 3 years. I do a lot of hwy stuff. It's one of the things holding me back on getting bigger wheels and tires - mpg....:cry:

off topic! :moon:

my034runner

08-01-2007, 12:29 AM

I think my HDPE sheet failed simply due to time and the force applied to bend it around the diff mounts. Mine broke while I was driving on the hwy up to Sherman Pass. I pulled into town and observed that the skid had a crack in it. Did not bump or run into anything.

I would like to come up with a way to avoid placing force on the diff mounts but by the time I wasted getting that done, I'd prolly have enough money for some steel armor. Thing is it's just so darn heavy for a DD. Remember I've done nearly 70,000miles in 3 years. I do a lot of hwy stuff. It's one of the things holding me back on getting bigger wheels and tires - mpg....:cry:

off topic! :moon:

What's this mpg you speak of???:shocked: :lol:

I don't know what that is!!:cry: :lol:

expat

09-22-2007, 08:23 PM

Well I've now destroyed my second HDPE sheet (one outing to Big Bear) so that's enough of that.

Next route - steel.

JohnD

09-22-2007, 08:36 PM

Well I've now destroyed my second HDPE sheet (one outing to Big Bear) so that's enough of that.

Next route - steel.

Mark ive got a downey u can have! if you want it..:wavey: :iagree

expat

09-22-2007, 08:57 PM

Thanks John, that's real nice of you to offer. I'm going to run naked for a while. I have some suspension issues that need working out before I put some under pants back on LOL.

I'm sure you can sell them to someone to recover the cost of the new setup.

Thanks for thinking of me.

Crozhawk

09-24-2007, 07:33 AM

Chip came by this weekend to give me a hand, i wanted to get my skid run under the Shrock skid in the front. As some of you guys saw in my setup, i cut out part of my stock skid so the HDPE could bend around and stay off the diff mounts. This has worked well so far.

Question though, now that I have the skid under the Shrockworks skid, my sway bar is touching the HDPE. Has anyone had any bad effects from this? So far no noise or anything but I also haven't flexed it super hard yet.

side-note ... I drilled out the wimpy stock holes and welded grade 8 nuts to the top of the cross member and now have grade 8, 9/16" bolts holding everything together in the front. Much stronger and hopefully my days of stripping those smaller bitchass (technical term) stock ones out is over.

Crozhawk

09-24-2007, 07:12 PM

hello?!! uh... err ... bump?

expat

09-24-2007, 08:21 PM

hello?!! uh... err ... bump?

Errr...are you referring to the question about the swaybar hitting? Mine never hit so I can't answer that.

Personally I couldn't see it as being a problem unless it started to crack the HDPE.

I am not sure what you did to modify your SW skid because mine fit between the skid and the crossmember with a little persuation but that's where it cracked both times eventually.

Sorry, could not be more help.

bulldog

09-24-2007, 09:00 PM

Crozhawk

09-25-2007, 07:41 AM

THanks, i guess it's good to here that that wasn't the cause or atleast doesn't seem to be the cause of the reported problems. I suppose I'll keep running like this for a while and see how it goes. Atleast it's off the front diff mounts and that was my primary concern.

mntbikr18

06-20-2008, 08:07 PM

Ill be that guy that bumps the year old thread.

Aside from Expat are people still happy with this?

Id assume there is a large difference between this and steel plates...which would be the appeal to me.....anyone have an idea of how much weight it saves?

Thanks

my034runner

06-20-2008, 09:31 PM

It worked well for me for a while, but they do tend to lose form and possibly add too much stress to the pass side diff mount bracket. :(

I've since replaced it with a full Bud Built set up.:D

expat

06-20-2008, 11:31 PM

HDPE is good but has limited use. I went thru 3 sheets (over nearly three years) before I switched to steel.Go with steel.

bulldog

06-20-2008, 11:44 PM

The front diff hangs slightly below the crossmembers, that is why even the stock skid has a special strengthening section to help protect it. The HDPE skid doesn't protect the diff assembly from direct hits (in terms of assembly), how much that was actually an issue with bracket failures is unknown. That said it is something to keep in mind.

HDPE should be fine for mild wheeling, etc. However if you plan on some rocks and want the best protection go with steel. There are plenty of options available today that wasn't there when folks went with HDPE. Most folks have since switched to aftermarket steel skids.

Most FJC front skids will work on the 4Runner, the gas tank and transfer case aftermarket skids need to be verified with the manufacturer if they will work on your 4Runner.

Crozhawk

06-21-2008, 08:05 AM

I've had a good experience with mine so far, but I cut out the reinforcing area from the stock skid and kept it to keep it off the front diff mounts.

I don't really wheel mine that hard though:)

sibanez

06-21-2008, 03:48 PM

I've had a good experience with mine so far, but I cut out the reinforcing area from the stock skid and kept it to keep it off the front diff mounts.

I don't really wheel mine that hard though:)

Interesting, I cut my factory skid after it mounts and sort of bolted the plastic to it . . . using some steel plate as reinforcement to keep it from cracking . . . so far so good with no issues at all.

If you are careful and keep some sort of protection for the diff mounts, HPDE is the best bet there is . . . I have seen so manyh steel skids get dented and require a grinder to remove here in Pa . . . plastic just slides over nice and smooth.

expat

07-14-2008, 01:30 AM

Just some random photos to add to this mod in relation to mounting points.

Here you can see the mounting bracket for my Downey skid but underneath it are the three stock bolt holes (threads welded in) that the HDPE can be bolted up to. This the drivers side

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y93/expatozzie/sliders/HDPEskid001.jpg

and the center

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y93/expatozzie/sliders/HDPEskid002.jpg

Then there are two bolts, again stock, on the crossmember

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y93/expatozzie/sliders/HDPEskid005.jpg

And finally two bolt holes (actually four but two is enough) found on the rear end of the crossmember brace

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y93/expatozzie/sliders/HDPEskid006.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y93/expatozzie/sliders/HDPEskid007.jpg

Then you just need some bolts and washers in various lengths

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y93/expatozzie/sliders/HDPEskid008.jpg

Hope that's clear for those of you who want to use this lightweight, flexible, easy mod for light offroading.

Cheers
Mark

jbs11

07-14-2008, 09:39 AM

I also used an HDPE skid for a while before I built my own steel skid plates. One suggestion for keeping the skid from contacting the front diff brackets if you don't want to cut up your factory skid: Get a piece of 2"x2" steel square tube (1/8" thickness is fine) and cut notches in it for the brackets, then bolt it onto the front cross-member. This is very easy, and most scrap yards can cut it for you if you don't have a chop saw, reciprocating saw, band saw, (or dremel and lots of time). I'll try to take some pics of mine and add them later. I think it does a good job of keeping weight of the diff brackets. This is good given the track record of the passenger bracket.

07 Elephant

07-14-2008, 01:13 PM

pics of that please?

jbs11

07-14-2008, 02:15 PM

Here is a pic I have of the skid plate. The view is looking from the front driver's side across and back at the front cross member. The arrow points to the 2"x2" square tube. See the cutout for the driver's side front diff bracket here.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3294/2668188933_8392ba614b.jpg?v=0

Just the 2"x2" tube with cutouts is needed to hold the HDPE off the brackets, not the full skid in this pic obviously.
I will try to get a pic of the skid plate off the truck and also see if I still have the scrap piece of tube from my first attempt (drilled the holes wrong).