CV joints and axle removal

[expat]

I haven't got a repair manual (yet) and haven't looked carefully but how close is this explanation (http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/suspensionandaxle/18frontdri.pdf) to the 4th gen 4Runners?

Thanks
Mark

[bulldog]

The 4th Gen is different from the instruction given. It is actually pretty similar to the 3rd Gen. I think on 4x4wire there is a good explanation on how to do it, sorry no linky.

If I have time tommorw I will try to scan the 4th Gen's instructions from the Factory manual.


Is there a reason why you are looking at it? WHen my CV boot leaked I had it fixed b the dealer under warranty, no issues regarding the lift(s) I had on. It is however good to know how to repalce the axle. I plan to get a spare to start taking with in the future, no one to my knowledge has grenaded a 4th Gen CV axle yet but is probably only a matter of time. AT least if it is there and ready, odds are against breaking one.

[expat]

Is there a reason why you are looking at it? WHen my CV boot leaked I had it fixed b the dealer under warranty, no issues regarding the lift(s) I had on. It is however good to know how to repalce the axle. I plan to get a spare to start taking with in the future, no one to my knowledge has grenaded a 4th Gen CV axle yet but is probably only a matter of time. AT least if it is there and ready, odds are against breaking one.

I want to know how to do it and also have the parts to do the replacement on the trail if things go bad.

[expat]

[QUOTE=bulldog]I think on 4x4wire there is a good explanation on how to do it, sorry no linky.[QUOTE]

I guess this would be the link you are referring too. Thanks Andries.

4x4Wire CV Axle replacement guide (http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/cv_axle/)

[bulldog]

I want to know how to do it and also have the parts to do the replacement on the trail if things go bad.
Ok, I'll try to see if I can scan the instructions tomorrow. If I don't get around to it it will only happen in a couple of weeks.

AT some point I will probably do a dry run at home and get a spare complete axle to carry. I want to see the axle nut size and other tools required. Keep in mind you will need loctitie as well, as you have to disconnect the lower a-arm bolts fromt he balljoint assembly. They require loctite when you put it back, also those bolts and the axle bolt requires some unruly TQ spec.

[bulldog]

[QUOTE=bulldog]I think on 4x4wire there is a good explanation on how to do it, sorry no linky.[QUOTE]

I guess this would be the link you are referring too. Thanks Andries.

4x4Wire CV Axle replacement guide (http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/cv_axle/)
Yes that is the one I was refering too. Only difference is the manual hub section, where we have an end cap and a bolt with nut and castle washer adn cotter pin. Need to check again.

But the principal is very similar.

[AlexJet]

... WHen my CV boot leaked I had it fixed b the dealer under warranty, no issues regarding the lift(s) I had on....

What lift did you have at that point Daystar or OME?

[bulldog]

What lift did you have at that point Daystar or OME?
OME, so it was quite obvious with the yellow shock. I doubt the boot leaking had anything to do with the lift, but rather my constant fiddling with the front end.

[expat]

See I told you if you kept fiddling you'd start leaking Andries :rotflmao:

[bulldog]

See I told you if you kept fiddling you'd start leaking Andries :rotflmao:
Well at least fiddling is fun :moon:

[bulldog]

OK attached is the FSM instructions for the CV axle removal and replacement.

I skipped the steps on how to dissasemble the axle as it is something you probably dont want to deal with on the trail, and a big huge mess with CV grease.

You might want to print it out and write added tips, probably what I will do.

Tools and spares required
- Full CV axle assembly
- Blue locktite
- Cotter pins for Tie rod and CV axle end bolt cap
- Tie rod puller
- pry bar or big ass screw driver for axle removal and insert
- big ass breaker bar, 200 lb/ft on CV axle nut and 160+ on lower balljoint bolts
- ??? MM socket for the CV axle somebody will have to check this, I think it is 24MM but dunno
- grease for axle tip and clip
- extra gear oil if it leaks, 10mm allen key to open diff filler cap

Tips
- When loosening and tightening the CV axle nut, you probably want someone to stand on the brake pedal, otherwise it will be tricky to loosen the nut.
- When reassembling CV axle into diff put grease on inner axle splines and clip (4x4wire tip)
- position clip so that open end points to the top (4x4wire tip)
- put blue locktite on bolts by lower ball joint when putting back, they tend to come loose (TTORA, 4x4wire, etc)
- tighten balljoint bolts and CV axle nut with breaker bar, se TQ spec. Unless you have a TQ wrench on the trail that can handle those specs (160+ and 200+). With the locktite and axle cap you should be OK to get home. AT home you can TQ top spec, remember to remove balljoint bolts and reapply locktite.

Hope this helps.

Best is to try not the break it in the first place :moon:
But at least if you have everythign and is prepared chances are far less of actually breaking it.
A spare tierod, rear side driveshaft and rear propshaft are also good ideas for the spares bag.

Most of this will only be needed when doing real tough stuff or driving like a yahoo. No one has broken an axle or tie rod on the 4th Gen yet that I know off. Lance has been the only one to mess up his rear propshaft.

[expat]

Great :bigok: Thanks Andries.

[jbs11]

I did this today. The outer boot on the passenger side CV had a small leak due to a few tiny cuts right next to the band. (I wonder if I could patch them with a tire repair kit or the like. Any ideas?) I decided to just replace the whole axle and then have a spare rather than dealing with the hassle or re-booting (which is actually more work anyway). I called around and the 3rd party axles were:
Advance Auto Parts - 74.88 (1 week wait)
Napa - n/a
O'Reilly - 70.99 (lifetime warranty, 1 week wait)
AutoZone - 115.99 (2 day wait)

Since I had to wait anyway and had heard mixed reviews of these axles (and none for the 4Runner), I decided to go with the Toyota axle. My local dealer is like $495, but I called Jacque at Toyota of Dallas (trdparts4u.com) and he set me up with a very good price. He also FedEx'd it overnight at no extra charge. Great service as usual!

From start to finish, the job took just over 2 hours, and I was taking my time to make sure I did it right. I did already have my skid plates off though. There were no surprises; the FSM instructions and Andries' hints are spot on. The axle popped out easily using a drift punch and hammer. The only auto parts store in Austin that i could find with a slide hammer had no attachments for it, let alone the hook I would have needed. I tried a pry bar, but it kept slipping out. I probably could have got it eventually, but popped it out with the punch on the first try. The new one went in nearly as easily (opening in the C-clip DOWN) with a couple blows of a dead hammer. This is one part where its nice to have a helper or two: One to hold the knuckle out of the way and one to support the axle and keep it straight. I do wish that I had replaced the seal on the hub side. It was a little rough around the edge (50k miles). The seal at the diff was good.

We'll see if I screwed anything up in the next few days if I get a leak or something comes apart and I crash to my fiery death. Here are some pics in no particular order as my son just snapped some while we worked. There is a helpful write-up with pics by BellyDoc on fjcruiserforums.com here (http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/suspension-tech/50368-replacing-broken-cv-axle-pictures.html), but he takes the hub apart, and I found that not to be necessary.

I feel that I could easily do this as a trail repair if I could get the 35mm hub nut off
with my breaker bar (I used my impact wrench and it was effortless).

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2501/3679748879_6cc40ab06d.jpg?v=0
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2469/3679748885_a86f722d94.jpg?v=0
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3654/3679748889_fab0ede874.jpg?v=0
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2522/3679748895_61eabde1ef.jpg?v=0
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2426/3679748899_10a441f823.jpg?v=0
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2432/3679753211_b592c038bb.jpg?v=0
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2621/3679753199_f00d8b5e61.jpg?v=0

[expat]

Awesome! Love it when people do their own wrenching. You even had a fan to cool ya down a bit.

[Teampez]

what about us V8 guys (full time 4wd) I know with the 3rd gens, IF you snapped a CV, you could drive home, or just pull the broken CV out. With the V8 and full time 4wd, Im geussing if you snap a CV, your done.

[expat]

what about us V8 guys (full time 4wd) I know with the 3rd gens, IF you snapped a CV, you could drive home, or just pull the broken CV out. With the V8 and full time 4wd, Im geussing if you snap a CV, your done.

You mean like this...

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y93/expatozzie/Moab%20Utah%2008/MoabUtah08258.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y93/expatozzie/Moab%20Utah%2008/MoabUtah08267.jpg

Yeah it can suck! That's why you either need to carry a spare or have good friends like Robert and Andries who will drop everything to ship out a spare to you and have a friend whos done a few before, or carry with ya a set of instructions (which I now have!) :guitar:

[jbs11]

Awesome! Love it when people do their own wrenching. You even had a fan to cool ya down a bit.
Yep, its been around 100 for the past week and rained the last to days, so 90% humidity. I might have died without the fan :)

Slightly off topic, but I encountered one other problem while doing this job. While re-connecting the tie-rod, the bolt, visible here:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2432/3679753211_b592c038bb.jpg?v=0
was just spinning with the nut (the bolt has some corrosion on the normally exposed threads as you can see- a wire brush over this would be a good idea). Luckily, with some PB blaster, I was able to use my impact to "rock" it back and forth (tighten a few threads, loosen a few threads) until I could turn it the rest of the way with a wrench. Once it was hand tight, the bolt seemed to stop wanting to spin and I was able to torque it to spec.

There is no hex opening in the end of the bolt like for the end links for the sway bars, so I saw no way to hold the bolt while tightening the nut. Has anyone else encountered this? Is there a right way to do this? Did I hose my tie rod end and need another?

[Photog]

The tie rod end is a normal ball joint, with a tapered stud. To keep it from turning, use a pair of pliers (channel locks) to press the stud tightly into the tapered hole in the steering arm.

This usually creates enough resistance in the assembly, to thread the nut on.

Removing the corrosion on the threads, and adding a bit of WD-40 to the threads (not the smooth part of the stud), should also be done.

[expat]

Yeah, same problem. Just used a breaker bar as a lever to press against the bolt as I undid it.