ABS, VSC Trac, and VSC Off Lights

[Lexwoody]

Just got my pre load spacers installed by a shop and alinement too. And I have these lights on. ABS, VSC Trac and VSC Off. I had A-Trac light on but it went off after disconnecting the battery. All the others listed above are on. Unplug the battery now. Havn't plug it back! How do I get them off?

[bulldog]

The shop might have broken one of your front ABS lines. See if you can get a trouble code pulled and compare to the ones for a broken wire.


BTW: You ready for tomorrow at Hollister?

[Lexwoody]

The shop might have broken one of your front ABS lines. See if you can get a trouble code pulled and compare to the ones for a broken wire.


BTW: You ready for tomorrow at Hollister?

It was a broken wire on the front left. All good now. Hollister is still a go for me :rotflmao:

[bulldog]

Good stuff.


Just keep in mind we will have to join the Molina Ghost run crowd and sign up. Bit pricey, but guess it's ok for some fun.

[Lexwoody]

Good stuff.


Just keep in mind we will have to join the Molina Ghost run crowd and sign up. Bit pricey, but guess it's ok for some fun.

Would they let us sign up there? And should I get there a little earlier?

[Lexwoody]

Sorry to who every reading. off topic! :jester:We got a trip plan in this thread too.

[bulldog]

Yeah we can sign up there according to their website. Let's just plan to meet up at the school house at that time and figure it out from there.

[Lexwoody]

Cool, C u there.

[brokengeiger]

This may have happened to me

A few months back I had a front end lift in my Wifes 04 ltd 4runner ~2 inches to level it off. First thing I noticed was the VSC / Trac / ABS lights were on. The guys said give it 50 miles and it'll repair itself. So I thought I trusted him so off I went. It never went off. I took it back and they said Zero Point Calibration and that they do not have the tools to do so.

After refusing the visit to the dealer and many months of just dealing with the issue I finally found a few related threads such as this one to do the Zero Point Calibration myself. I was very careful and the lights came right back on. So off I went today to finally get the issue looked at by Toyota Dealer.

They said that my Skid Control ECU needed to be replaced but they weren't certain. I was thinking BS - that it was a guess - how the heck could a 2 inch puck lift have caused this? so I refused that service as it was $2000+ for a wild guess and asked for the codes to research. C0200, C0205 and C1223. After researching - the fact the C1223 is there contradicts already what they are saying. Per a TSB I found - the C1223 will record IF there is no malfunction in the SKid control ECU. therefore I think I can safely assume that I shouldn't have to replace the ECU.

you mention the broken ABS wire? where was this wire?

BTW the CEL is not lit.

[brokengeiger]

BTW would love to know where to buy the service manuals volumes for the 04 4runner in pdf format. toyota appears to only offer big paper volumes :)

[Chuck]

This may have happened to me

A few months back I had a front end lift in my Wifes 04 ltd 4runner ~2 inches to level it off. First thing I noticed was the VSC / Trac / ABS lights were on.
...
you mention the broken ABS wire? where was this wire?

BTW the CEL is not lit.

I stretched mine when I did my lift, and the lights came on. I felt the cable until i found a thin spot then I opened the insulation in that area and sure enough the wires were broken. I just re-soldered them and bingo it worked. One tip even after you fix it you will need to drive your truck about 100 yards befor ethe light goes off.

No I did not take any pictures. It was pretty simple though. I knew the general area that the wire had stretched (between where it attaches to the upper a-arm and where it attaches to the wheel. I carefully felt the insulation until I felt an area that was thin. I then removed the insulation. There are two wires inside the insulation. I just soldered them together where they were broken and then used electrical tape to cover them again.

If you want to be sure it is broken before you start removing insulation to llook for the break, just disconnect the wire at the sensor (on the wheel) and also up top (there is a connector by the air filter on the V8) and check the continuity. As I said there are only two wires in the cable so it is an easy check to make.

Hope this helps Mark


Link to the Thread (http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?p=40100#post40100)


4Runner Factory Service Manual Download (http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3070)

[brokengeiger]

Excellent - very helpful thanks. Now I need to make me some wires to improve my reach of the multimeter to test these wires. :-)

[Chuck]

Excellent - very helpful thanks. Now I need to make me some wires to improve my reach of the multimeter to test these wires. :-)

If you can, take some photos of the wires and connectors - especially where
the connectors are located.

[brokengeiger]

annotated with my thoughts - please let me know and I can upload the unmarked images.

behind air filter
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2629/3757162536_3c1da6a900.jpg

next to fuse box in engine compartment
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2485/3756361373_96fd63efdc.jpg


Driver side front wheel
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2511/3756360723_74370ee29f.jpg

passenger side front wheel
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2485/3757160660_67b84a8167.jpg

[Chuck]

Pics are great. Thnx.

Did you find a broken wire?

[brokengeiger]

YUP. I got a decent set of multimeter cables and traced out where the seperation was. Once I got the thing identified - it was clear that I could remove from the rig and finally was able to see where the stretching had ocurred.

$5.00 part online! Totally not $2000 ECU replacemnt

[Chuck]

YUP. I got a decent set of multimeter cables and traced out where the seperation was. Once I got the thing identified - it was clear that I could remove from the rig and finally was able to see where the stretching had ocurred.

$5.00 part online! Totally not $2000 ECU replacemnt

Great! I like happy endings. What was the $5 part?

[brokengeiger]

just the wire harness 90980-11003 - ToyotaPartsExpress.com

I looked high and wide for a decent toyota oem part web E=site. This one seemed OK enough. Can anyone recommend a better one?

autozone, napa, schucks did not have this part number.

[Photog]

The lift does not damage the wires, it is the installation, if not done carefully.

I am also glad to hear that you tracked down the real problem (with a little 120 help) and were able to repair it, without dealer assistance.:D

[Lexwoody]

The lift does not damage the wires, it is the installation, if not done carefully.

I am also glad to hear that you tracked down the real problem (with a little 120 help) and were able to repair it, without dealer assistance.:D

:iagree

[expat]

just the wire harness 90980-11003 - ToyotaPartsExpress.com

I looked high and wide for a decent toyota oem part web E=site. This one seemed OK enough. Can anyone recommend a better one?

autozone, napa, schucks did not have this part number.


On the site https://www.toyotapartsexpress.com/parts.html it says electrical connector. Anyone know does this mean the whole wiring and connectors at both ends of the wiring. Seems ridiculously cheap for the wire and connectors. I'd rather buy new wires than repair my damaged ones if its only $5 + shipping.

[brokengeiger]

I received it... it was just the one plastic part.

:-)

I ended up going to local toyota and buying the complete replacement... $120. came with bracket, wire, shield, connector and pre formed to fit. took 20 minutes to install. dang well better be easy to install for $120...

And yeah if I researched all parts I supposed I could have built my own for $30 (each connect ~$5 reusing the brackets etc).

Also cheaper than the $2000 ecu replacement that my dealer decided this issue was...

[expat]

oh, ok. Then I'll just buy some wire and fix myself.

Thx

[Lexwoody]

www.parts.com (http://www.parts.com) says it's a electrical connector. $4.57
http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM

[vra94tt]

I just fixed my abs/trac light problem. The drivers rear abs wire seemed to have rubbed itself down to the wire on the bracket that the panhard bar connects to. Checking the continuity of the wires is key to fixing this problem, to bad for me it was the very last wire I checked! Long day time for a :beer: or two or three or...

[Yabedude]

Late last week I had all those lights come on. I pulled over, cycled the ignition and the lights reset so I figured it was a loose connection behind my AndyMod kill switch. Then on Sunday it happened again. Cycled the ignition but a couple of Km later, the lights were back on. Hmmm.

After lunch, I peeked under the truck and discovered that my after market skid beneath the front diff and oil pan had lost 2 bolts back near the cross member in front of the transfer case and was hanging down -- bouncing. Once I got back home, I bolted it back up (using blue lock tight this time) and the lights haven't been back on since. I'm hoping that the vibration from the bouncing skid plate cause a sensor to think something was wrong -- and it was. Fortunately, there are 3 other bolts at the front of that plate and will be checking those bolts more frequently now.

[vra94tt]

My lights came and went for about a week before they stayed off completely. They would typically come back on 15-30 minutes after I'd pull the neg battery cable though. If it's been a couple days with no lights you might be ok, lets pray that you are.