4.56 gears failure

[Darklight]

That sounds great, I am a little jealous but I am also very happy for you, haha

Be sure to post up the 4.56 part #'s for us okay?

Bobby

[expat]

Im not sure about the thick cut 4.56 vs the 4.88's but I would probably do 4.88's if I had my choice over again. I dont find the 4.56's are ideal for city and freeway driving with 35" tires. If your running smaller than 35's, then 4.56's would be good. FYI IMO

[daPitbull]

Originally Posted by expat

Im not sure about the thick cut 4.56 vs the 4.88's but I would probably do 4.88's if I had my choice over again. I dont find the 4.56's are ideal for city and freeway driving with 35" tires. If your running smaller than 35's, then 4.56's would be good. FYI IMO

Not sure I agree, if he's running a V8 (which I think he is) I would stick with 4.56.

I've got the V8 with 4.56, which I'm happy with, and feel like 4.88 would be too tall, especially on the freeways.

[aha2988]

yeah im pretty confident with the 4.56 choice with my V8 and 35's. I'm on 33's right now so i shouldnt run into any issues that can't be adjusted. I'm mainly regearing to get back towards factory RPM's (stop and go trafic kills and if im not running above 70 on the highway im running to low of rpm to maintain speed) Also to get my towing game back. it takes a good bit of throttle to haul a good sized load up some of the smallest hills right now lol. I want the lockers for the off road game im tired of having to use momentum to get over ****, It'll be way nice to do a little more crawlin an less baja'n haha. oh and ill get to have those wicked awesome blue arb switches in my dash thanks for all the help guys certainly good sourcing! I'll post up all the info i can about the setup when i get the estimate sheet email still hasnt come through yet there probably busy being AWESOME!! lol

[croge17]

the front is slightly more involved than unbolting and rebolting but thats the basic idea.

[aha2988]

Originally Posted by croge17

the front is slightly more involved than unbolting and rebolting but thats the basic idea.

yeah theres a bit of half shaft pulling involved but just more bolts really lol and im sure there some other bs up in there that will want to play games with me all in the wrench time though, I've changed out dana 35 axle shafts on kodak rock at uhwarrie with the jeep sitting on kodaks rock face (well mutlitple faces) winched to a tree jacked up with a highlift jack and some random logs to support things here and there haha.(Crazy friend thinks he can run 35" baja claws on a welded open center diff stock danya 35 axle shafts well he does it just not for very long distances per axle lol)

perhaps this would be a good time to ask if any of yall know off hand what extra parts, seals or gaskets, will i need durring the install of the new front clamshell and rear third member, I kno i have to slide the rear axle shafts out a bit to pull the third member is there a gasket right there where the hub end seperates from the axle housing or will RTV sealant do the job? I'm sure i can search for the info just thought i'd ask. I would think ECGS would hook me up with a gasket for the third member, just currious about that gasket on the end of the axle and if i should replace any seals inside the axle while im in there?

[croge17]

unbolt the rear hubs and brake line has enough slack in it for you to slid ethe shafts out far enough, then remove the 3rd.

On the front you will need to detach the upper ball joint and remove the spindle nut, That might get you enough room to wiggle the CV shaft out of there. Then you have the skid plates to remove, 3 differential mounts to remove, the driveshaft to remove and that should do it.

[aha2988]

Originally Posted by croge17

unbolt the rear hubs and brake line has enough slack in it for you to slid ethe shafts out far enough, then remove the 3rd.

On the front you will need to detach the upper ball joint and remove the spindle nut, That might get you enough room to wiggle the CV shaft out of there. Then you have the skid plates to remove, 3 differential mounts to remove, the driveshaft to remove and that should do it.

thanks man, i always forget to check those dang brake lines i've come so close to breaking the ones in the front lol.

Instead of disconnecting the upper balljoint, can't i just unbolt the bottom bolts left and right of the lower ball joint to swing the spindle and upper control arm out and away, leave the half shaft bolted to the hub an just pop the inner housings shaft out of the diff case?

and just double checking no gaskets on the rear hubs and no need to replace axle seals?

[croge17]

the upper joint is easier to get back together...

Take the nut off the bottom and pound on the spindle with a hammer and it will pop apart. then just like you were saying but swing down and pull cv out of the wheel bearing then pull out the inner joint. I havent found a way to remove the inner side without removing the outer first.

The reason I always go for the upper ball joint is that the lower control arm has the strut/coilover mounted to it and can be a bear to get lined back up with the spindle.

[aha2988]

Originally Posted by croge17

the upper joint is easier to get back together...

Take the nut off the bottom and pound on the spindle with a hammer and it will pop apart. then just like you were saying but swing down and pull cv out of the wheel bearing then pull out the inner joint. I havent found a way to remove the inner side without removing the outer first.

The reason I always go for the upper ball joint is that the lower control arm has the strut/coilover mounted to it and can be a bear to get lined back up with the spindle.

yeah i used a jack when i replaced the half shafts last time to push the lower control arm back up(but bent my dust shroud for the brake rotor). I was able to pull the inner out first with the spindle swung out but then again my boot was completly ripped appart and i had way more wiggle room out of the inner housing of the old shaft than what its suppose to be. I'll give the upper ball joint way a try this time i just always tried to avoid seperating ball joint connections in fear of damaging them. I suppose letting the spindel pull the connection appart shouldnt damage the ball joint at all, thanks for the tip buddy!

[croge17]

no pickle fork needed, joint shouldnt be touched. Just hammer the spindle where the stud goes through and it will pop the taper joint apart.

[aha2988]

should be easy to! i just had to swap out upper ball joints with SPC they had sold be an old bad batch of ball joints with my LR UCA's. Anyways when i put the new ones on, after cussing the old ones! (they were a pain to seperate for some reason). I coated the spindel tapered pocket with anti seeze. perhaps it actually benefited me lol.

[croge17]

Haha i just noticed your running that 1/4" spacer up front to keep your wheels off the caliper... Isnt that a major PITA. I'm doing the same thing

[aha2988]

Originally Posted by croge17

Haha i just noticed your running that 1/4" spacer up front to keep your wheels off the caliper... Isnt that a major PITA. I'm doing the same thing

yeah! i even had to grind a little material off the face of the caliper lol, i wasnt to happy with it mainly because i had to restud with longer studs so even if i wanted to run factory wheels again i'd have to replace the studs. good thing i dont want to run the factory wheel again right! haha

a bigger pain in the ass though, the tire shop that put my wheels and tires on cross threaded two lug nuts on the back right and one on the back left so one day im out in the shop changing oil an rotating tires when i get to the cross threaded bastards lol and wound up having to break the studs with the impact to get the tires off. got new studs and when i got to the parts store they were all out of 3/4" hex head 1/2" studs so i have 2- 13/16 hex head lugs on one rear wheel and one 13/16 hex head on the other so it takes two impact sockets to rotate tires now until i take the time to replace the stupid bigger lugs lol.

[croge17]

I changed all mine out for chevy wheel studs with a longer knurl and use 1/2" 20 thread lug nuts.

[harper7]

Originally Posted by aha2988

yeah theres a bit of half shaft pulling involved but just more bolts really lol and im sure there some other bs up in there that will want to play games with me all in the wrench time though, I've changed out dana 35 axle shafts on kodak rock at uhwarrie with the jeep sitting on kodaks rock face (well mutlitple faces) winched to a tree jacked up with a highlift jack and some random logs to support things here and there haha.(Crazy friend thinks he can run 35" baja claws on a welded open center diff stock danya 35 axle shafts well he does it just not for very long distances per axle lol)

perhaps this would be a good time to ask if any of yall know off hand what extra parts, seals or gaskets, will i need durring the install of the new front clamshell and rear third member, I kno i have to slide the rear axle shafts out a bit to pull the third member is there a gasket right there where the hub end seperates from the axle housing or will RTV sealant do the job? I'm sure i can search for the info just thought i'd ask. I would think ECGS would hook me up with a gasket for the third member, just currious about that gasket on the end of the axle and if i should replace any seals inside the axle while im in there?

Here are 2 excellent DIY's on the swaps and several are out there. FJ's are exactly the same BTW except the E-locker.They helped me immensely and were spot on and I'm going to eventually do a write-up on 5th Gen swaps as I did document with pics as I went and are just a little different in the rear with the new 8.2" rear diffs. The front 8 inch clamshell's are still exactly the same as they have been on Taco's,4Runners,FJ's and Prados for the last 10 years.
8" Clamshell Swap
3rd Member Swap

[medic83]

Id go 4.88's over the 4.56. YOu will eventually go to 35s by the path you are taking. Plus if you want to tow, youll regret 4.56. When questioning the two gears.... always go to the taller gear.

[shabaka]

Originally Posted by medic83

Id go 4.88's over the 4.56. YOu will eventually go to 35s by the path you are taking. Plus if you want to tow, youll regret 4.56. When questioning the two gears.... always go to the taller gear.

I totally agree with Phil...
If you plan on 35"s at all and if your focus is
off-roading then always go with the deeper gearset
Barring one thing... The amount of torque from that v8 tends to make 4.56
the more practicle choice for a DD rig plus the .7ish OD in the
5spd trans will have that v8 winding out over 65mph
Of course... The choice is yours

[aha2988]

Thanks for the write up links!

Thanks for the advice phil, I will be in 35's before im done; however, This will be a DD for atleast 2-3 more years. Once I step into another vehicle to get around, it's SAC front SAS rear with a hole different powertrain setup. I'll likely be in 5.29's or lower once I go through all that on 38's or 40" tires(cummins deisel power! in the powertrain plans).

Like i said im going with the 4.56's to put my RPM's back in a better place durring daily driving, I have to change the front carrier to be able to re gear so i just figured it would be a good time to lock that up and I kno i need the rear Air locked for sure so thats my route for now thanks for all the advice, tips, and info from everyone!! I'll certainly follow up with highway RPM's and mpg's changes If i do decide 4.56's arn't low enough The company im purchasing from doesnt seem like it would challenge them much to swap out front clamshells and a rear third one extra time to make it right. No worries though im pretty confident this will be just what im going for.

[shabaka]

Let us see some pics when you get going!

BTW...
3.73@75mph is roughly 2089rpm on stock tires

(assuming you keep with the MTZ's...)
4.56@75mph is roughly 2430rpm on 33" tires
4.88@75mph is roughly 2601rpm on 33" tires
(assuming MTZ again...)
4.56@75mph is roughly 2325rpm on 35" tires
4.88@75mph is roughly 2488rpm on 35" tires

Someone else can feel free to double check my math
But... Not a HUGE jump from 4.56-4.88
...just an FYI