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Unread 02-15-2008, 03:21 PM   #1
AlexJet
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Default DRL/Turn Signal Problem

My right DRL/Turn Signal (front) stop working, left is working. I checked the bulb, it's Ok. There is no power on connector. Does someone knows if there is a fuse or relay to right front DRL/Turn Signal? What can be wrong? Spend ~1.5 hr, but no clue so far...
Somehow I'm getting ~4v on the contacts, not 12v.
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Last edited by AlexJet; 02-15-2008 at 03:54 PM.
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Unread 02-16-2008, 12:56 AM   #2
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Use the wiring diagram to track down your issue.

See
http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2772
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Unread 02-16-2008, 09:11 AM   #3
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I've looked at the diagram last night.

F6 Front Turn Signal Light RH doesn't light. I've checked the bulb, it's fine.
Checked the connector 1 IN1. It has 4v instead of 12v.

Question: what can be wrong? Turn Signal Relay?

What is D2 Daytime Running Light Relay Turn Signal Flashing Relay? Is it Relay on the diagram or connector? Relay is under the dash. Where is connector, on the Relay?

BTW, I forgot to mentioned. I've been doing some welding on the truck. I did take the battery terminal off the battery. Would it cause the issue?

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Unread 02-16-2008, 11:42 AM   #4
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The link I posted above has a zip file with all the info in it. Relay locations, fuse, connectors, etc. Just work through it. It might be a bit painful initially, but you will be glad you did in the end as you will have a much better undertsanidng of the wiring of the truck for now and the future.

Did you measure voltage just across the connecter, or do you measure from one connector point at a time to the chassis ground? It sounds like you have a grounding problem more than anything esle if you measure 4V. Normally you should measure 0V if a fuse/relay pops. Check all your ground connections.
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Unread 02-16-2008, 01:29 PM   #5
AlexJet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulldog View Post
Did you measure voltage just across the connecter, or do you measure from one connector point at a time to the chassis ground? It sounds like you have a grounding problem more than anything esle if you measure 4V. Normally you should measure 0V if a fuse/relay pops. Check all your ground connections.
I've checked on both positive and negative connectors and then between positive and frame as a ground. Result is the same. Still in ???? what doesn't work.
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Unread 02-19-2008, 12:06 PM   #6
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Problem is fixed.

The issue was in quick-connector which was attacked by road salt and completely disintegrated the wire inside. Long story - short. I've looked at this connector 10 times before and it was fine from outside. When I've opened it this morning, I saw that all my wires were eaten by salt, so I had connection through the green powder of #%^#%$. Soldered them back and eliminated connectors - everything working as before.

Note: Do not use quick connectors if they are expose to road debris or outside of the vehicle.

Remind to myself: Re-Do all quick connectors as soon as it will be warm enough to work on my driveway.
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Unread 02-19-2008, 12:55 PM   #7
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Pix of your bad connector type?
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Unread 02-19-2008, 01:12 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teotwaki View Post
Pix of your bad connector type?
I throwed them away because they were all correded, but they looks like this:

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Unread 02-19-2008, 04:14 PM   #9
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Okay! Those are definitely meant to be out of the weather or taped over with self-vulcanizing tape to weatherproof them.

Thanks for posting the photo.
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Photos http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1237
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Unread 02-19-2008, 04:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teotwaki View Post
...or taped over with self-vulcanizing tape to weatherproof them.
Tried electric tape - doesn't help, salt get's it out as well. Best thing is solding and srinking to maitain the shape.

Just to let you know guys. I hope my experience will be useful for others. This problem may occur on any vehicle with steel bumper, like my ARB, Shrockworks or any other.
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'16 4Runner Limited --- Daily Driver; 3"; 33", Snorkel
'74 FJ40 --- 5"; 35", Snorkel, etc...
'09 Custom Expedition Trailer --- 35"
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Unread 02-20-2008, 09:44 AM   #11
Teotwaki
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexJet View Post
Tried electric tape - doesn't help, salt get's it out as well. Best thing is solding and srinking to maitain the shape.

Just to let you know guys. I hope my experience will be useful for others. This problem may occur on any vehicle with steel bumper, like my ARB, Shrockworks or any other.

No, no, no..... not nasty vinyl electrical tape.

FUSION tape: self bonding silicone tape. Stuff is awesome.

http://www.stopit.com/ftslideshow.htm

I use the orange Hi-Line brand with the blue stripe down the middle
http://www.hi-line.com/more-info/?id=146
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My Adventure Blog: "Sun To The North"
'05 SR5 4WD V6
HQ sliders, OW Suspension, LT265/75/R16C Duratracs, rear diff. breather, ScanGauge II, Garmin 276C, Engel 45 fridge, All-Pro LCAs, TC A-Arm Skids, dual batteries, Downey skid plate, Cyclone pre-filter, ARB Compressor & Rear Locker!! Offroad Trailer
Photos http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1237
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Unread 09-13-2018, 08:17 AM   #12
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Default 2008 DRL turn signal bulb

OK folks, my 2008 DRL and turn signal seem to use the same bulb. Not sure which part number is right, either 1156A or 4157NA. I am thinking it is the 4157NA bulb as a replacement. Kind of confusing that they put 2 part numbers. I guess the 1156A might be just the blinker for ones "without" DRL uses. Need confirmation though.

Here is whats going on,
The left turn signal started "hyper flashing" flashing really fast yesterday into the gas station.
I switched to emergency lights and they blinked normal, back to turn signal fast again.

Get out to look and nothing is blinking on the front signal.
Stop blinker and the DRL is also out. Thinking ok bad bulb. Well turn truck off, get gas, back on try again before I leave and now it is back to normal operation, DRL is on and turn signal is fine.

Must be a bad bulb or relay flasher. Relay flasher is under drivers side kick panel up high.
Will start with bulb and check connections at the bulb/wiring too for corrosion ex.

Bobby
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Unread 09-13-2018, 10:10 AM   #13
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To anyone who is a ding bat like myself lol. These are push in and turn counter clockwise to release type bulb. Mine just popped out of the socket like nothing. Had to do surgery to get the stuck socket off in the parking lot of the auto store lol. Good thing I had needle nose pliers.

BTW it is the 1156A bulb for those with DRL and turn signal.
Hope that fixes my issue seems fine now so.

Bobby
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