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Unread 07-16-2013, 02:49 AM   #21
loose_electron
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I did some more research and found this article, seems I may have made a mistake by installing the wrap. It will come off as soon as the pipes cool. Not a difficult task.

Things make more sense with logical facts.

http://www.centuryperformance.com/ex...o-not-use.html
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Unread 07-16-2013, 10:50 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loose_electron View Post
I did some more research and found this article, seems I may have made a mistake by installing the wrap. It will come off as soon as the pipes cool. Not a difficult task.

Things make more sense with logical facts.

http://www.centuryperformance.com/ex...o-not-use.html
I gave the exact same info as the article, i.e. "logical facts", but I did it in only a few sentences. What part of my advice was not "logical" or "factual"? You ignore my real world experience based advice, but you saw something on the internet so OMG TIME TO ACT IMMEDIATELY. ARggggggg
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Unread 07-16-2013, 02:19 PM   #23
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Easy Mike I'm not here to discredit your experience, I wanted to know in more detail what exactly could happen and why, it did not burn any holes in my situation.
I do have a car to use.

Now I have found an article to elaborate what you said and share the info with the forum. Look at it another way...someone reading this thread, to them you and I are just some guys on the internet...

You said Pacesetter was a cheap brand, what would you suggest other than OEM? I'm actively seeking a welder with TIG skills to fix my original manifold before I can ship.
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'04 Sport V8 4x4, 265/70/17 BFG MT KM2 E, HD Series TR beadlocks 17x8.5 +4" bs, NO Swaybars, TC+2 Long Travel, Spindel Gussets, Upper Coil Tower Gussets, LCA Cam Tabs, ICON frt CO 650lb springs w/resi, ICON Bypass w/Resi. Metal Tech(MT) LT Progressive Spring, MT specs-ICON developed LT shock-2.5 rear w/resi. Rear ARB, sPod, Shrockworks Skids http://www.toyota120.com/forum/album.php?u=47863

Last edited by loose_electron; 07-16-2013 at 04:09 PM.
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Unread 07-16-2013, 04:48 PM   #24
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I don't know that there are any other options, besides the couple guys who've made tubular headers fit.
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Unread 07-19-2013, 06:57 PM   #25
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I wanted to report after I had removed the heat wrap and the paint burned off, my assumption was correct, the Pacesetter aftermarket exhaust manifolds are made from stainless steel like the OEM manifolds.

I hope the welds are better than factory.
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Unread 06-23-2014, 07:43 AM   #26
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So its been 11 months since I installed the left side manifold and today I pulled the right. Let me say this friends, I was seriously considering pulling the engine to access 4 of 8 studs/nuts.
The right side is a huge PITA due to very limited space, AC lines, etc.

Here is what I did to make space, and did I mention that I never removed the engine skid. I did remove the top bolt on the bypass shock and pulled it down and out of the way, air cleaner box/ intake tube and finally the transmission skid because the Ex. Manifold will come out through the bottom.

Additionally I removed the right engine mount bolts, 4ea where it attaches to the block. NOT at the frame. Then I used the factory bottle jack and somehow massaged it between the frame and right side of the engine block and starting cranking, viola! Enough extra space to get a 14mm long 6 point socket w/a 3/8 long handle ratchet.

Prior to my epiphany I striped two stud/nuts. What did I do you ask? Welded a nut to each stud and the rest is history! EASY OFF!

*Be sure to use NON zinc or cadmium plated nuts, the yellow or silver. Its hard to weld thru the coating.

Attached is the extent of the flange crack, I bent the flange w/ visegrips for easier viewing. Toyota really should of had a recall on this mess!
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File Type: jpg image.jpg (657.9 KB, 34 views)
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'04 Sport V8 4x4, 265/70/17 BFG MT KM2 E, HD Series TR beadlocks 17x8.5 +4" bs, NO Swaybars, TC+2 Long Travel, Spindel Gussets, Upper Coil Tower Gussets, LCA Cam Tabs, ICON frt CO 650lb springs w/resi, ICON Bypass w/Resi. Metal Tech(MT) LT Progressive Spring, MT specs-ICON developed LT shock-2.5 rear w/resi. Rear ARB, sPod, Shrockworks Skids http://www.toyota120.com/forum/album.php?u=47863

Last edited by loose_electron; 06-23-2014 at 08:19 AM.
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Unread 06-23-2014, 08:06 AM   #27
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I also added heat reflective material on the transmission lines, they run very close to the right exhaust manifold catalytic convertor. Rather than wrapping the exhaust pipes. The Pace Setter replacement manifolds DO NOT have any shields covering the convertors like the OEM type.

The material used was 3 foot long with Velcro down the entire length, then I cut it accordingly.
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File Type: jpg image.jpg (841.9 KB, 23 views)
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'04 Sport V8 4x4, 265/70/17 BFG MT KM2 E, HD Series TR beadlocks 17x8.5 +4" bs, NO Swaybars, TC+2 Long Travel, Spindel Gussets, Upper Coil Tower Gussets, LCA Cam Tabs, ICON frt CO 650lb springs w/resi, ICON Bypass w/Resi. Metal Tech(MT) LT Progressive Spring, MT specs-ICON developed LT shock-2.5 rear w/resi. Rear ARB, sPod, Shrockworks Skids http://www.toyota120.com/forum/album.php?u=47863

Last edited by loose_electron; 06-24-2014 at 02:49 AM.
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Unread 09-29-2015, 01:49 AM   #28
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2 years later: I have an update concerning the left "drivers side" Pacesetter brand exhaust manifold.
Unfortunately it has cracked in half right in the center of the pipe between exhaust port #3 and #5 but the 1/4" exhaust flange is solid. No crack.

The manifold is made of stainless steel so I will attempt to have it welded but if that is not fessible Rock Auto sales new ones from various manufacturers. I would caution against the Dorman brand that are duplicates of the OEM flimsy flanges.
See attached Rock Auto image.

I now attribute the failure to the lack of bracing and the weight of the catalytic convertor. Both left & right OEM manifolds cracked at #1 & #2 cyl flange. As I mentioned above the Pacesetter manifolds have a 1/4" exhaust flange, unlike the OEM.

Convertor are heavy so I will fabricate a brace...Anyone have an idea to add a brace?
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