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Unread 03-27-2013, 04:53 AM   #1
Mike07SE
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Default Frozen LCA Cam Bolts

So Monday night I installed my Radflo 2.5 fronts and Metal Tech LT rear suspension setup and took it to a shop to get aligned yesterday. I had a bad feeling this was going to happen, but the shop couldn't align my LCA due to all four cam adjustment bolts being frozen. I figured this would happen especially after some set backs due to frozen nuts and bolts I had when installing the lift.

Now it looks like I'm on another path to replace my lower control arms. I found some Raybestos replacement arms with new bushings and balljoints (which I need to do as well). Big emphasis on this is they are $150/ea vs. OEM's being $440/ea. and Raybestos IMHO being a reputable quality brand.

Question is, does anyone here have personal experience with trying to get these suckers off in this situation? I'm assuming a combination of sawzall and cutoff grinder cutting off the bolts in between the bushings and LCA mounting plate. Looking for feedback on personal experience, tips, and tricks.

Thanks!
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Last edited by Mike07SE; 03-27-2013 at 10:21 AM.
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Unread 03-27-2013, 09:48 AM   #2
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When we did the LCA Bushings and Cam bolts on my roommate's 3rd gen it was a PITA. Main thing is make sure you are doing this on a lift because its gonna take all damn day. We were able to get the bolts out with a combo of an air hammer and a dead blow with a lot of force. Basically we used the air hammer to pop off the alignment cams and then used it to push out the bolt, using a dead blow when the air hammer wouldn't reach. Bottom line it's a big time consuming job. Considering you have to also remove the front coilover and unbolt the steering rack. He then replaced all the bushings with Toyota parts.
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Unread 03-27-2013, 10:20 AM   #3
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I have a shop to do this at where I work, thank god. If I had done my lift in my driveway at home I would've been screwed. First sign was the passenger side lower strut mount bolt was frozen to the bushing sleeve. My buddy and I had to grab the cutting torch and cut a slit in the outer shock ring and burn out the bushing to get the bolt out. All in all I think we lost 3 hours between that and a rusted/frozen upper ball joint castle nuts.
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Off Road: Fr: Bilstein 6112 w/1/2" Toytec Spacer / Rr: MetalTech Long Travel | JBA UCA | Toytec 1" Body Lift | Goodyear Duratrac 285/70R17 | Rear Diff Breather Mod
Stereo: 3.5" Tweeter Mod | Kenwood DNX9980HD
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Last edited by Mike07SE; 03-27-2013 at 10:23 AM.
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Unread 03-28-2013, 05:20 AM   #4
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I had this problem with mine I just cut off the bolts with the sawzall and drilled them out it takes about 2hrs per side. If your lucky and have any friends that work at a dealership they have tons of cam bolts for the tacos getting frame swaps and I was able to get the cam bolts for free. They are not the exact same but they work you just get a little more thread sticking out. You should change out the ball joints while your at it.
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Unread 03-28-2013, 06:20 AM   #5
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New control arms on the way preassembled with new bushings and a ball joints. Also ordered new bolts this morning - not cheap!
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2007 4Runner Sport Edition V6 4X4
Performance: Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers | TRD CAI | 4.56 ARB Front / True Trac Rear
Off Road: Fr: Bilstein 6112 w/1/2" Toytec Spacer / Rr: MetalTech Long Travel | JBA UCA | Toytec 1" Body Lift | Goodyear Duratrac 285/70R17 | Rear Diff Breather Mod
Stereo: 3.5" Tweeter Mod | Kenwood DNX9980HD
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Unread 06-30-2013, 09:15 PM   #6
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Im looking forward to getting these new LCA's, ball joints and associated bushings plus the Total Chaos camber bolt alignment tabs. I just completed the welding of the tabs together. Next is drilling out the stock tabs and welding the new ones in place.

Hopefully my suspension will quiet down and the shuddering will disappear too



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Unread 06-30-2013, 09:18 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike07SE View Post
New control arms on the way preassembled with new bushings and a ball joints. Also ordered new bolts this morning - not cheap!

Were your old bolts showing signs of wear? I'm trying to source some from someone who has done a solid axle swap (FJ)
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Unread 07-13-2013, 04:35 PM   #8
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My old bolts were totally frozen. Only way arms were coming apart was by cutting them out, so there was no way to save the bolts.

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Off Road: Fr: Bilstein 6112 w/1/2" Toytec Spacer / Rr: MetalTech Long Travel | JBA UCA | Toytec 1" Body Lift | Goodyear Duratrac 285/70R17 | Rear Diff Breather Mod
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Unread 07-13-2013, 04:38 PM   #9
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Swap out my LCA's with aftermarket that came with new bushings and ball joints. Sooo much better. Got some bolts from Wyatt. Mine were pretty rusty. Took about two hrs to swap them out.
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Unread 07-14-2013, 01:54 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by expat View Post
Im looking forward to getting these new LCA's, ball joints and associated bushings plus the Total Chaos camber bolt alignment tabs. I just completed the welding of the tabs together.
Since I had those TC tabs welded on (2 years ago now almost exactly, 7/12/2011) I have not needed an alignment. I used to need one about every time I went off-road.
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Unread 07-14-2013, 04:56 AM   #11
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I also have the TC Camber tabs, well worth the time and money.
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Unread 07-15-2013, 04:37 AM   #12
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Tabs will be on my todo list. During my LCA replacements I was going gorilla style on the bolts with a breaker bar trying to see if I had a chance of saving them and was able to tweak the OEM tabs. Totally weak IMO. I still have to cure my binding CV joints so this will be on the backburner until I get around to doing new axles first.
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Unread 07-15-2013, 05:11 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike07SE View Post
Tabs will be on my todo list. During my LCA replacements I was going gorilla style on the bolts with a breaker bar trying to see if I had a chance of saving them and was able to tweak the OEM tabs. Totally weak IMO. I still have to cure my binding CV joints so this will be on the backburner until I get around to doing new axles first.
If you have access to an air hammer, place the punch with the tip in the center of the bolts. This is how I removed mine and they came out with ease.

This might help others if they ever need to remove the bolts.
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Unread 09-27-2013, 11:33 AM   #14
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All I succeeded in doing with that method was starting to bend the LCA mounts. Some of us Rust Belt guys will have no mercy with this.
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Unread 10-28-2013, 01:21 PM   #15
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I had to use an angle grinder with cutting disc to cut the bolts between the arm and frame mount. The arm had to be disconnected from the knuckle so I could pivot it up and down in order to get enough access to the bolt. I also just bought replacement bushings for the arms, but it was a ton of extra work to cut the old bushings and metal sleeves out and then press the new ones in. And you really do need to press the new bushings in; I tried to install the first one by heating the arm and chilling the bushing and tapping it in which went poorly. I also used SPC's cam bolts as replacements: http://www.spcalignment.com/index.ph...tion&pid=25435
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Unread 12-12-2013, 01:23 PM   #16
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I did burn it out but the sleeve wouldn't come through the hole. All that was left was to cut the bolt.
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Unread 12-10-2015, 03:48 PM   #17
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I'm replacing my entire LCA's. What bolts do I need to purchase, since I'm assuming I'll have to sawzaw the old ones out? Are the called Cam Bolts?
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Unread 12-10-2015, 04:59 PM   #18
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Caster/Camber Cam bolt kit
Moog p/n K100128 $32.79 on Rock Auto
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Unread 12-10-2015, 05:47 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loose_electron View Post
Caster/Camber Cam bolt kit
Moog p/n K100128 $32.79 on Rock Auto
Noooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!

Do not get these, they are garbage. Loose, if you are running them, sorry, but they are crap.

Here is a whole thread on them, junk.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/...#post-10175478

From said thread, here is what you need.

Just ordered a set of OEM from Camelback, $130 shipped. Moogs were $80 shipped, spend the extra $50, below are the part numbers needed except for the bushing (48654-60030), not my pic.

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Unread 12-10-2015, 05:53 PM   #20
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Thanks for the tip Wishbone. I'm still using the original Cam bolts. I've not heard of Camelback. Is that the name of the dealership?
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