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Unread 08-22-2012, 06:40 PM   #1
loose_electron
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Default 2003-2004 R&R Exhaust Manifolds

Disclaimer before installing heat wrap on pipes, after the initial install I removed mine.
http://www.centuryperformance.com/ex...o-not-use.html

Buying all parts to swap my manifolds , I have purchased the left and right Pacesetter brand manifolds and have some questions for the think tank.

Instead of re-using or buying new heat shields from the dealer I have opted to purchase the high temp heat wrap. I want to make it better than factory and keep the under hood temps down and prevent a repeat of rusting shields. *EDITED - I purchased new heat shields and did not use heat wrap.

I will wrap the entire manifold to the first convertors w/heat wrap, any thoughts, pros and cons...
http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/pr...header_wrap/19

Does anyone know what the factory engine manual recommends concerning the R&R of exhaust manifolds, mainly why replace all the exhaust manifold studs from the head? (I know why now, the locknut will be frozen to the stud and comes out as an assembly).

I will replace all the lock nuts, gaskets, collector bolts, nuts and gaskets.
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Last edited by loose_electron; 06-23-2014 at 07:58 AM. Reason: Added important link concerning heat wrap
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Unread 10-01-2012, 03:28 AM   #2
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Update: apparently there is not much room to pull the exhaust manifold out between the frame and head, that is why the studs come out on this job. I'm replacing all the suds as well.

I ordered my parts from Toyota of Dallas.

http://www.toyotapartsales.com/partl...?siteid=214074

(Actually there is room, as in reinstalling the manifold. The studs go in the head first, the gasket and finally the exhaust manifold)
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Last edited by loose_electron; 07-15-2013 at 05:19 AM.
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Unread 06-29-2013, 01:28 AM   #3
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A quick update, it's been nearly a year and this is one of the last project to install. The main reason is because I dread exhaust work of any type and the fact there is not much room to work.

Attached photo is the heat wrap on the drivers side manifold. I also purchased the factory heat shields for later install.

Note: I screwed it to the wood while installing the wrap due to the awkward shape.

There is a good YouTube video about installing heat wrap, the key is to soak the material in water prior to install and wrap the tubes while wet.

http://youtu.be/muEzarjY7Fk

I've read both pros and cons about the heat wrap, and if it doesn't work I can pull it back off.

I also spoke to Keith at Dirty Deeds Industries today and placed an order for one of his flow thru muffler cat back systems.

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Last edited by loose_electron; 07-15-2013 at 05:43 AM.
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Unread 06-30-2013, 02:54 AM   #4
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Today I pulled off the drivers side exhaust manifold and found the crack. I did this side first based on where the sound was emitting. Looks like a mfg defect during welding and no way to repair this unless you pull it off. Can you see the crack? This is on number one cylinder.

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Last edited by loose_electron; 07-15-2013 at 04:38 AM.
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Unread 06-30-2013, 03:45 AM   #5
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During the 3.5hr venture I had to remove the heat shield then the manifold studs. I'm happy to report None broke off in the head , the eight studs and locknuts came out as a solid rusted assy. I was considering pulling the engine...hmm, 2hrs vs the contortionist angles I had my arms and body, I still might lift the engine out slightly during re assy and to R&R the passenger side.

I also dumped the nitrogen on the bypass shock and removed only the upper shock bolt then pulled it out of my way. When it came to removing the old manifold it will only come out through the bottom. I found it easier to remove the four 14mm bolts on the front driveshaft at the diff and pushed it to the side, this allowed enough space for the manifold to come out thru the bottom of the frame. Be careful not to break the O2 sensor. To backup a moment, the heat shield came out thru the top of the engine towards the radiator.

I did break the one stud connecting the crossover pipe to the ex manifold and one on a heat shield but no big deal I purchased all new hardware in advance.

The screwdriver points to the area where the crack is located.

A word of caution, consider taking this job to a shop unless you have access to various tools. I used 1/2 & 3/8 extensions/ratchets, swivels, break over bar, 14mm six point deep well socket, ratchets with offset handles/swivel heads and air ratchets. (Torque Wrench for assembly) Consider if you do break a stud in the head, be prepared to deal with that situation.

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Last edited by loose_electron; 07-15-2013 at 04:06 AM.
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Unread 07-03-2013, 02:51 AM   #6
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Reinstalling the new manifold is pretty straight forward. To clean the flanges I used 150 grit sand paper. Eight New studs installed to 11ft lbs w/anti seize on the threads (head side).

The gasket has two sides, be sure the white painted tab is facing the exhaust manifold side.

Lock nuts should be 33ft lbs, in no particular order, but tightened evenly. I've done 15, 25 and finally 33ft lbs.

The heat shield bolts have two different torques from left to right bank. 66in lbs right side, 69in lbs on the left side. Strange to me, at first I thought this was a typo, but its the same in the parts breakdown and the installation instructions.

I found all this info here...
http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3070

And would be happy to help anyone locate the file.





It is very difficult to get a clear picture of the install.
Note: See the white tab above the top right stud, the exhaust gasket should look like this when installed correctly.

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Last edited by loose_electron; 07-15-2013 at 04:52 AM.
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Unread 07-03-2013, 02:54 AM   #7
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Last edited by loose_electron; 07-15-2013 at 04:18 AM. Reason: Cleaning up post
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Unread 07-03-2013, 03:05 AM   #8
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break!

Last edited by loose_electron; 07-15-2013 at 04:19 AM.
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Unread 07-03-2013, 10:08 AM   #9
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I had a set of Pacesetter headers on my old Ford Probe. I wrapped them like you did. It insulated them so well that I burned a hole straight through the header tubes. Pacesetter is kind of a cheap brand, and thermal wrap is great for race cars, but not so much for daily drivers. Keep an eye on things! Ceramic coating is a much better method of heat insulation for exhaust manifolds.
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Last edited by Mikestang; 07-03-2013 at 10:12 AM.
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Unread 07-03-2013, 03:06 PM   #10
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I understand, I have read articles with ceramic coat vs none and temperatures of 130 degree difference. I thought I would give it a chance. I have room to remove the wrap without pulling the manifolds. Which company sells a better product?

Rockauto.com sells Walker and Bosal brand.
http://www.rockauto.com/m/mobilecatalog.php

Or I could weld the crack in the factory manifold, and have it Ceramic coated.
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Last edited by loose_electron; 07-03-2013 at 05:55 PM.
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Unread 07-03-2013, 05:33 PM   #11
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The problem with wrap is you can't see a hole burning through the header until it's too late, that's why it's not usually a good choice for daily driven vehicles. Is there no way the factory shields could be make to work, or shields fabbed that are "factory like"? You're going to be bummed if you have to pull those manifolds off again in a few months because you burned a hole through them.
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Unread 07-03-2013, 05:40 PM   #12
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I can get the factory shields on now over the wrap and I haven't started the truck yet.

I started a thread for the best PC and Ceramic coating company. What company would you use? Any suggestion as I'm using Internet searches and no real world customer service feedback.

I'm going to weld the factory crack and proceed from that point.
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Last edited by loose_electron; 07-03-2013 at 05:59 PM.
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Unread 07-03-2013, 06:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loose_electron View Post

I thought about starting a thread for the best PC and Ceramic coating company. What company would you use? Any suggestion as I'm using Internet searches and no real world customer service feedback.
Jet-Hot Ceramic Coatings has been around for awhile.

http://www.jet-hot.com/


They offer a LIFETIME warranty on their work.

The Jet-Hot exhaust coating warranty is the best in the industry. Lifetime - no questions asked. If you think your Jet-Hot exhaust coating isn't living up to its billing, we'll coat your part again on our dime. If it fails in the first year, we’ll re-coat your part and cover the shipping both ways. If the coating fails after a year, ship us the part, and we'll coat it and ship it back on our dime. Yep, we stand behind our work.
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Unread 07-03-2013, 06:37 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCL68 View Post
Jet-Hot Ceramic Coatings has been around for awhile.

http://www.jet-hot.com/


They offer a LIFETIME warranty on their work.

The Jet-Hot exhaust coating warranty is the best in the industry. Lifetime - no questions asked. If you think your Jet-Hot exhaust coating isn't living up to its billing, we'll coat your part again on our dime. If it fails in the first year, we’ll re-coat your part and cover the shipping both ways. If the coating fails after a year, ship us the part, and we'll coat it and ship it back on our dime. Yep, we stand behind our work.
Good call, I forgot about this company! Calling them Friday morning. Thanks for the info.
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Unread 07-04-2013, 01:11 AM   #15
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Jet Hot is one of the best in the biz. I do not have any recommendations unfortunately. You could call JBA Headers and ask who they use, the only experience I have personally with ceramic coated headers is theirs on my mustang.
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Unread 07-06-2013, 03:46 AM   #16
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Contacted Jet Hot and I asked for a quote for two exhaust manifolds and the front pipe that connects both manifolds and runs right under the transmission pan and IMO serves the unpopular heating of the tranny fluid.

Initially my goal was to fix an exhaust leak and reduce underhood temps. Here is what they told me.

"Thank you for your interest in our Jet Hot High Performance Coatings. The price estimate for your parts to be coated is $370.00 for headers and front pipe in the extreme polished, satin
or burnished plus the cost of shipping/handling to send them back to you. Process time once we receive your parts takes 5 business days for extreme 1300 and extreme 2000 & extreme 2500 takes 7 business days.

If there is any chrome or ceramic coating to remove a $50 strip fee will be applied."

For clarifaction the extreme 1300 coating will keep more heat in the pipes than the other coatings and this will be the one I will choose...now to either weld the original cracked exhaust manifold or send in the Pace setter manifolds for coating.

YouTube video from Summit Racing concerning painted vs ceramic coated headers, or in our case exhaust manifolds.

http://youtu.be/nDwahD0Fk4w

Any comments?
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Last edited by loose_electron; 07-15-2013 at 05:33 AM. Reason: additional comments
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Unread 07-14-2013, 06:38 PM   #17
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Heat shield painted with high heat Krylon and installed. I'm still debating repairing the OEM Manifold...but to no longer hear an annoying exhaust leak is Great! The pacesetter manifold was a perfect fit.

One change from the OEM manifold vs Pacesetter, the new factory studs I purchased to connect the collector to the front pipe did not fit due to a different thread pitch. I used M10 X 1.50 metric bolts instead of a stud.

Another difference is on the OEM manifold there is a heat shield covering each catalytic converter but not on the Pacesetter. In order to use the heat shield on the Pacesetter manifold is to weld four tabs to space the shield and give the required air space.


I wrapped the front pipe about a month prior to the exhaust manifold swap. Soon my skids will be installed to protect the wrap or a ceramic coating when I get motivated to pull and send the parts to Jet Hot.

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Last edited by loose_electron; 07-16-2013 at 03:27 AM.
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Unread 07-15-2013, 04:57 PM   #18
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Wow!! Good job John. You've got some guts to tackle this job. Not for the faint at heart, definitely worth it tho to kill that annoying tick!!
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Unread 07-15-2013, 04:57 PM   #19
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Looks like the crack is right at the heat affect zone. That 409 is finicky to weld. The oem weld was obviously too hot.
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Unread 07-16-2013, 12:49 AM   #20
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Why do you have them wrapped if you installed the heat shields, too? Man, I'm telling you, you'll burn right through those Pace Setters, probably sooner than you tear it all down to send in for coating.
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