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Unread 12-05-2011, 08:48 AM   #1
Quint
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Default LCA bushing failure

I recently installed new lower control arms after trying to track down a click for some time. The symptoms were: when driving into and out of my driveway or over small bumps, especially while turning I would hear a metallic click or pop, also sometimes it would happen when braking hard or when switching from forward or reverse(it would only happen one time when switching forward/reverse. I know that this has been discussed here a few times before so I thought I would throw this up to show what I found.

First video shows the control arm on the truck with the lower ball joint disconnected.
If you can tell there is slight movement in the joint and you can hear faint popping.
Sorry for the crappy video work but I only have two hands.
http://s1022.photobucket.com/albums/...CAbushing1.mp4

Second video shows the LCA off the truck with the rear bushing clamped in a vice.
you can see how easily the bushing flexes in the arm, the rubber in between the bolt sleeve and the LCA was rotted/torn.
http://s1022.photobucket.com/albums/...CAbushing2.mp4

Anyways, hope that can help someone out. that sound was driving me cray.
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2005 sport - OW 2.5 - Budbuilt skids- BFG MT km2 285/70/17- FJ wheels - Shrockworks sliders- T.C. LCA and rear link skids - wabfab rear swaybar links- all pro ultimate lower links - magnaflow exhaust- k&n intake- Total Chaos uca & panhard - dual batteries - Perkins bumper - Smitty XRC8 - ARB CKMA12 onboard air - 2.5 gal. viair tank - 4.56 gears and rear ARB

Last edited by Quint; 12-05-2011 at 09:09 AM.
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Unread 12-05-2011, 09:04 AM   #2
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These are the same videos as above but on Youtube.



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Last edited by UnionJack; 12-05-2011 at 09:50 AM.
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Unread 12-05-2011, 09:10 AM   #3
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Thanks, I have spent the last 15 minutes trying to figure that out.
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2005 sport - OW 2.5 - Budbuilt skids- BFG MT km2 285/70/17- FJ wheels - Shrockworks sliders- T.C. LCA and rear link skids - wabfab rear swaybar links- all pro ultimate lower links - magnaflow exhaust- k&n intake- Total Chaos uca & panhard - dual batteries - Perkins bumper - Smitty XRC8 - ARB CKMA12 onboard air - 2.5 gal. viair tank - 4.56 gears and rear ARB
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Unread 12-05-2011, 09:18 AM   #4
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Thanks for posting that Jon. That keeps T120 the best site for TECH info for our platform.
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Unread 12-05-2011, 09:32 AM   #5
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Was it difficult to replace the bushings?
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Unread 12-05-2011, 09:36 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caslim View Post
Was it difficult to replace the bushings?
I ended up replacing the whole lower control arm, I have heard its tough to press those bushings out. My ball joint boot was torn so I figured what the heck and replaced the whole thing with one from rockauto. about 300 bucks for a LCA complete with bushings and a lower ball joint.
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2005 sport - OW 2.5 - Budbuilt skids- BFG MT km2 285/70/17- FJ wheels - Shrockworks sliders- T.C. LCA and rear link skids - wabfab rear swaybar links- all pro ultimate lower links - magnaflow exhaust- k&n intake- Total Chaos uca & panhard - dual batteries - Perkins bumper - Smitty XRC8 - ARB CKMA12 onboard air - 2.5 gal. viair tank - 4.56 gears and rear ARB
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Unread 12-05-2011, 09:49 AM   #7
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The key question: Did it solve the problem?
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Unread 12-05-2011, 09:55 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnionJack View Post
The key question: Did it solve the problem?
Sure did, improved the ride too. Feels nice and solid again.
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2005 sport - OW 2.5 - Budbuilt skids- BFG MT km2 285/70/17- FJ wheels - Shrockworks sliders- T.C. LCA and rear link skids - wabfab rear swaybar links- all pro ultimate lower links - magnaflow exhaust- k&n intake- Total Chaos uca & panhard - dual batteries - Perkins bumper - Smitty XRC8 - ARB CKMA12 onboard air - 2.5 gal. viair tank - 4.56 gears and rear ARB
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Unread 12-05-2011, 10:14 AM   #9
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Thanks for posting, pretty sure I have the same issue.
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Unread 12-05-2011, 10:39 AM   #10
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I had the same problem. So when I did all the gussets on the front end we replaced the lower control arms also
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Unread 12-05-2011, 10:51 AM   #11
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I have that same thing happening in my 4Runner also. Makes the click/popping sounds when I go from reverse-forward or vice versa. How difficult is it to replace the entire LCA unit? Which part number did you purchase off of RockAuto - I see a couple different brands (raybestos/mevotech) and they are only around $165 each.
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Last edited by esb_t4r; 12-05-2011 at 10:58 AM.
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Unread 12-05-2011, 11:12 AM   #12
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I bought the Moog part, if you try to put the raybestos part in your cart they will tell you that it is no longer available(I knew that $165 was too good to be true). I have had pretty good luck with the Moog parts so far. the install is straight forward 1. disconnect the lower ball joint, that's two 19mm bolts on either side of the joint itself(be sure to have some loc-tite on hand for when you put these bolts back in, they can wiggle out). 2. mark your alignment cams with a paint marker so you can get them back together in the right spot(mostly). 3. remove cam nuts and bolts and then arm from truck. 4. remove ball joint cradle from old LCA, I used a pickle fork to accomplish this because my ball joint separator was not big enough. 5. install ball joint cradle onto new LCA and torque ball joint to cradle. 6. install new LCA.
This took me about an hour to accomplish.
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2005 sport - OW 2.5 - Budbuilt skids- BFG MT km2 285/70/17- FJ wheels - Shrockworks sliders- T.C. LCA and rear link skids - wabfab rear swaybar links- all pro ultimate lower links - magnaflow exhaust- k&n intake- Total Chaos uca & panhard - dual batteries - Perkins bumper - Smitty XRC8 - ARB CKMA12 onboard air - 2.5 gal. viair tank - 4.56 gears and rear ARB
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Unread 12-05-2011, 11:52 AM   #13
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Did you have to loosen your springs on the coil-overs to relieve pressure? Adjusting the coil-overs back to ride height is a pain.
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Unread 12-05-2011, 12:36 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caslim View Post
Did you have to loosen your springs on the coil-overs to relieve pressure? Adjusting the coil-overs back to ride height is a pain.
Adjusting the coilovers is not necessary, when you disconnect the lower ball joint you will have plenty of play with the CV/brake assembly to move it really anywhere you want to. on a side note when you disconnect the lower ball joint the cv/brake assembly is going to want to fall down since there is nothing holding it up, although the axle will hold it somewhat in place. I used a small jack stand to hold the rotor up and keep it in a workable position.
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2005 sport - OW 2.5 - Budbuilt skids- BFG MT km2 285/70/17- FJ wheels - Shrockworks sliders- T.C. LCA and rear link skids - wabfab rear swaybar links- all pro ultimate lower links - magnaflow exhaust- k&n intake- Total Chaos uca & panhard - dual batteries - Perkins bumper - Smitty XRC8 - ARB CKMA12 onboard air - 2.5 gal. viair tank - 4.56 gears and rear ARB
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Unread 12-05-2011, 01:03 PM   #15
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Could you see any of that bushing degradation with the arms still on the truck?
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Unread 12-05-2011, 01:08 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikestang View Post
Could you see any of that bushing degradation with the arms still on the truck?
Cant really see it but if you stick a prybar between the frame and the LCA bushing while the wheel is off the ground you can get it to wiggle up and down a bit.
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2005 sport - OW 2.5 - Budbuilt skids- BFG MT km2 285/70/17- FJ wheels - Shrockworks sliders- T.C. LCA and rear link skids - wabfab rear swaybar links- all pro ultimate lower links - magnaflow exhaust- k&n intake- Total Chaos uca & panhard - dual batteries - Perkins bumper - Smitty XRC8 - ARB CKMA12 onboard air - 2.5 gal. viair tank - 4.56 gears and rear ARB
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Unread 12-05-2011, 02:21 PM   #17
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I replaced my stock bushings with Energy suspension http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...?prod=8%2E3128

I just replaced the lower ones and it deff was a major pain, ended up having to burn the factory bushings out with a rosebud tip on a cutting torch

Total time was 5+ hours to ensure not to damage the thin metal.

I still have the upper bushings in black if any one is interested, I dont plan on replacing them but just buying LR's
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Unread 12-05-2011, 02:27 PM   #18
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I've thought about those energy bushings for the lca, but think it'd be better just to replace the assembly, seems like a pain to install those. Any thoughts if one is better than the other?
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Unread 12-06-2011, 02:23 PM   #19
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There have been quite a few failures of the LCA, at the bushing. The metal tears at the weld.

After removing the LCA, and burning out the bushings, this would be a perfect opportunity to beef up the LCA, and install better bushings. Why install another inferior LCA, like the first one?

This is likely to be my next front suspension mod.

Photo of failed LCA (posted by: HBmurphy):
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Unread 12-06-2011, 03:46 PM   #20
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Is Total Chaos the only shop that makes an aftermarket LCA?
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