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Unread 03-03-2014, 07:24 AM   #21
Minnesota-Toyota
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I just peeled the plastic up as needed to access the bolts and simply just stuck it back into place when done. I'm sure there are other options out there but it seemed to stick just fine.
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Unread 04-05-2014, 12:01 PM   #22
DouglasInBoston
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Default Free used hatch switch

I replaced the entire rear garnish assembly on my 2005 Prius so I no longer need the old latch release switch. I can mail it if anyone is interested. Rubber is not degraded.
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Unread 06-17-2014, 10:57 PM   #23
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Old thread, but I found it by searching for melting rear hatch switches.

Looking at the pics so well done, I have to wonder if the switch could not be unscrewed, and the connector disconnected by reaching up with a right angle hook and jostling it loose by de-latching it.

Lazy way to avoid removing the hatch trim, but I hate trim removal, something always seems to break when I do that.
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Unread 06-19-2014, 05:28 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robtmc View Post
Old thread, but I found it by searching for melting rear hatch switches.

Looking at the pics so well done, I have to wonder if the switch could not be unscrewed, and the connector disconnected by reaching up with a right angle hook and jostling it loose by de-latching it.

Lazy way to avoid removing the hatch trim, but I hate trim removal, something always seems to break when I do that.
I initially thought of that and spent 45 minutes trying to get a screwdriver in there to loosen the switch. I got 1 side done and realized there had to be an easier way.



Even after I got that side off, there's not enough room to get anything in there to pry out the switch.
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Last edited by dbiii; 06-19-2014 at 05:36 PM.
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Unread 06-19-2014, 06:35 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbiii View Post
I initially thought of that and spent 45 minutes trying to get a screwdriver in there to loosen the switch. I got 1 side done and realized there had to be an easier way.



Even after I got that side off, there's not enough room to get anything in there to pry out the switch.
Yeah, after more review of the photos, I got the feeling the connector would never come loose diddling it from outside. My usual track record in trying to do stuff in a shortcut way ends up in broken parts.

New switch arrives in a day or two. The 2007 V6 4WD I picked up is at 72K miles now, never had the 60k service done.

Thinking of having the dealer do a fluid change on transfer and differentials just for drill, and see if their labor charge for the switch replacement is withing reason.

Otherwise, I found my old trim tools, much as I dread messing with plastic trim tabs.
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Unread 06-21-2014, 08:23 PM   #26
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Got it done today, pretty much as written up, complete with peeling back the plastic sheet just enough. The black sealant gets messy.

Putting it back together, almost did my usual stunt, leaving out the two screws holding the switch in. I am bad for that sort of getting ahead of myself, caught it in time.

Had to loosen the trim to get it to seat properly, and all was well. The old switch left goop all over, still have some to clean up when I get the patience.

Thanks for the great write up. Not something I would want to grope through without a guide.
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Unread 06-22-2014, 08:22 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robtmc View Post
Got it done today, pretty much as written up, complete with peeling back the plastic sheet just enough. The black sealant gets messy.

Putting it back together, almost did my usual stunt, leaving out the two screws holding the switch in. I am bad for that sort of getting ahead of myself, caught it in time.

Had to loosen the trim to get it to seat properly, and all was well. The old switch left goop all over, still have some to clean up when I get the patience.

Thanks for the great write up. Not something I would want to grope through without a guide.
Glad I could help.
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Unread 08-04-2014, 03:44 PM   #28
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This is a bit of a resurrection, but since I just did this repair this morning I thought I would add some pieces to it.
some equipment tips:

I didn't use the combination wrench.
you may want a wobble-head extension.
you'll want shallow and deep 10mm sockets.
you'll want some paper towels and some packing tape (WTF? I'll explain later)
some duck-nose pliers, or other type of pliers

while doing the removal:

1. When you're trying to remove the trim piece on the outside, push the screw shafts from inside of the door. Do not try to pry the trim off of the outside. when you push the shafts from inside, it comes right out without scratching paint.
2. You may have to leave the trim piece hanging on the outside of the vehicle. I wrapped the corners of this with some blue Scott shop towels and taped the towels on. it worked great to minimize scratching. of course, I thought of this after I scratched the paint a little bit...
3. I used duck-nose (billed) pliers to remove the plug for the far driver's side nut. pry gently with a screwdriver, grab with pliers, tug to remove. Easy, and less chance for tearing or scratching than with a screwdriver alone.
4. You can do this alone, but it's much easier with another person. they can keep the door partially shut for you, or hold trim pieces while you're working on them. OR, you can use a rope tied around part of the door, or just deal without, like I did.

I hope my tips didn't seem rude to the original poster! This thread and the photos were great. Thanks!
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Unread 08-09-2014, 04:05 PM   #29
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Thank so much for writing these instructions, I was able to replace my switch. Really appreciate it!
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Unread 08-10-2014, 06:19 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aika1 View Post
This is a bit of a resurrection, but since I just did this repair this morning I thought I would add some pieces to it.
some equipment tips:

I didn't use the combination wrench.
you may want a wobble-head extension.
you'll want shallow and deep 10mm sockets.
you'll want some paper towels and some packing tape (WTF? I'll explain later)
some duck-nose pliers, or other type of pliers

while doing the removal:

1. When you're trying to remove the trim piece on the outside, push the screw shafts from inside of the door. Do not try to pry the trim off of the outside. when you push the shafts from inside, it comes right out without scratching paint.
2. You may have to leave the trim piece hanging on the outside of the vehicle. I wrapped the corners of this with some blue Scott shop towels and taped the towels on. it worked great to minimize scratching. of course, I thought of this after I scratched the paint a little bit...
3. I used duck-nose (billed) pliers to remove the plug for the far driver's side nut. pry gently with a screwdriver, grab with pliers, tug to remove. Easy, and less chance for tearing or scratching than with a screwdriver alone.
4. You can do this alone, but it's much easier with another person. they can keep the door partially shut for you, or hold trim pieces while you're working on them. OR, you can use a rope tied around part of the door, or just deal without, like I did.

I hope my tips didn't seem rude to the original poster! This thread and the photos were great. Thanks!
It's not rude at all. Thanks for the additional information. I'm sure I will help others.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kingaaron View Post
Thank so much for writing these instructions, I was able to replace my switch. Really appreciate it!
Glad I could help.
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Unread 09-03-2014, 11:36 AM   #31
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I just ordered a replacement for my 2008. Are the new ones made of better material?

Thanks for the postings!
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Unread 09-07-2014, 04:12 AM   #32
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Thumbs up

Just installed the new switch yesterday, took less than 30 minutes.

I found the replacement switch on eBay for $36.69 shipped, new, genuine Toyota part.

If you don't have any panel tools to pry the interior panel and the top of the trim piece off, I recommend you spend a few bucks at Harbor Freight for a set. Those plastic pry bars come in handy for many uses and don't scratch paint.
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Unread 12-15-2014, 08:04 AM   #33
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If ebay doesn't have it, I found this for $50 on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/2003-2013-4Run.../dp/B00KC8OLYQ
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Unread 08-23-2015, 12:26 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbiii View Post
I know there have been a few people who had their rear hatch opening switch melt like me so I decided to do a write-up on how to replace it. Let me know if you have any questions or if you'd like me to add anything to the write-up.

Parts Required: Part# 84840-35010 (cost around $64 before tax)


Tools Required:
- ratchet with 10mm socket and small extension
- 10mm wrench
- phillips screwdriver
- door trim removal tools (can be purchased at Harbor Freight for around $5) or just a big phillips screwdriver if you don't mind a few scratches

Time Required: 20-30 minutes (It took me about 40 minutes and that includes the time to take pics too)


Step 1: Remove the rear hatch panel - start by removing the interior hatch handle cover and remove the handle bold using a phillips screwdriver. Once that is removed use the trim removal tools to pry off the bottom and sides of the panel (be careful not to break the plastic tabs that hold it in). Then you can lift the panel up towards the top of the hatch to remove it completely.



Step 2 - Loosen exterior trim with Toyota Logo - Remove the 6 nuts in the pictures using your ratchet and wrench (one of the nuts is pretty deep in the panel on the driver's side, but it's reachable with a wrench and your hand).

EDIT (8/9/2011) - I've been told there is a plug that can be pulled out to reach the nut that is deep on the driver's side. I don't have a pic, but if it's true it may make the job a little easier.
Once all the nuts are removed, use the trim removal tool to pry underneath the trim piece from the outside to pull out the tabs that old it in place.

CAUTION: Do not try to pull the trim piece completely away from the hatch. It will still be attached to a wire.







Step 3 - Remove hatch switch - with the exterior trim piece removed, you should now be able to turn it upside down and use your phillips screwdriver to loosen both screws on the switch and unplug it from the back of the trim piece. Once the screws are loosened, you should be able to pull the switch out easily. (NOTE: You will need to re-use the screws so keep them safe. )







Step 4 - Install the new switch in the reverse order of the removal. Reuse the two phillips screws you removed from the old switch to install the new one.

Step 5 - Re-attach the exterior trim piece. Now is a good time to test the switch to make sure it works before you finish installing the panel

Step 6 - Re-install rear hatch panel.
Thanks for the great detail on this repair! I followed it exactly and everything went in perfectly! Biggest problem cleaning up the mess from the melted rubber on old switch!
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Unread 09-02-2015, 04:14 PM   #35
jelmer
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dbiii - thanks for taking the time and posting the pictures for how to do this. Just replaced mine today and although it took me about an hour to do, it was very easy and everything worked exactly as you described.
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Unread 09-02-2015, 05:43 PM   #36
Superrgf
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Default Great instruction

Finished replacing mine last weekend, it went perfectly thanks to your great instructions! Great pictures also. Thank you! Took me about an hour. I also found the switch on eBay for about $35 o.e.m
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Unread 10-18-2015, 01:07 PM   #37
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Regarding harbor Freight trim prybars - there are a few to choose from - any suggestions on which prybar to use?
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Unread 10-09-2016, 02:31 PM   #38
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Default Helpful post, couple more tips and tricks

Hugely helpful post, thanks! Just did this job today and took about 40 minutes to replace and 90 minutes to clean the nasty melted (?) rubber and crap from the gate switch area. Couple of tips I uncovered which may help:

- I used a very large screwdriver and plastic bike tire levers (used to replace tires on most any bike) to remove the rear hatch panel; no scratched and it worked great.

- to keep the trim w/ the logo from scratching and moving so much, I draped an old towel over the rear window wiper for the trim piece to rest against.

- so I wouldn't have to hold the door in place the whole time, I used a large size zip tie, closed on itself, to 'latch' into the rear gate, then a ratchet strap / tie down strap to hook into the zip tie and then to an anchor (anything heavy will do). This was VERY helpful! (especially with the cleaning).

- my old gate switch was terribly melted, total mess. I liberally used Motsenbockers Silicone, Latex Caulk and Foam Sealant Remover (from Home Depot), small flat-blade screwdrivers and paper towels and ~45 minutes of patience to clean up the nasty mess. It didn't damage the paint, nor did it simply disolve the mess, but it made it MUCH easier to clean up!
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