Toyota 120 Platforms Forum
Google only search Toyota120

Go Back   Toyota 120 Platforms Forum > Shared tech > Suspension and Tires

Reply
Thread Tools Display Modes
Unread 01-07-2016, 05:24 PM   #1
CollieRunner
Rookie
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portland Oregon and Slow Gin Fizz
Posts: 10
Default Noise from front drivers side

The past few days I've been having a noise vibration from the front drivers side. I've been looking all over the suspension trying to find the culprit. All the bolts and nuts are tight. There is no movement out of the tire.

What I did notice is the direction that springs face are different on each side. The drivers side currently the bottom of the coil pointing toward the tire and my passenger side faces the back of the 4runner.

Could this be the issue? Heads up I installed 5100 and FJ coils back in July and at that time I installed them to match the direction that the original coils faced. Could the drivers side spun on the strut or could have both spun?

Any thing else I should look for?

Thanks

Last edited by CollieRunner; 01-07-2016 at 05:28 PM.
CollieRunner is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-02-2016, 04:23 AM   #2
beerman
Driver
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 62
Default

Check the boots on your tie rod ends, lower ball joints, and strut mount bearings.
beerman is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-02-2016, 10:07 AM   #3
CollieRunner
Rookie
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portland Oregon and Slow Gin Fizz
Posts: 10
Default Noise

I'm thinking its the lower ball joint. The boot is starting to tear a little. I stuck it with a grease needle and pumped the joint full. Since then the noise is still there but less pronounced. There still doesn't seem to be any play in the front wheel.

The question now is do I replace the joint or the whole lower control arm. I don't have a ton of cash right now, but I also don't want to get stuck doing an impossible job. The runner has 132,000 miles now so I'm sure that the control arm bushings are near the end as well.

Thanks

On another note, I'm chasing a heat shield rattle in the back its only there on start up. any thoughts?
CollieRunner is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-02-2016, 03:57 PM   #4
Mikestang
Don't follow this guy
 
Mikestang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: The wild wild west
Posts: 4,421
Default

Get a Moog replacement lower ball joint and have it pressed in, pretty simple. The moog has a zirk fitting to make adding grease simple, too.
__________________
'07 Ltd 4Runner v8 4x4 - Midland 75-822 + Wilson 5000, Garmin 276c, Magnaflow catback, Kurtfab front diff brace, 265/70/17 Goodyear ATA on Robby Gordon Signatures, Spidertrax, 3/4" BL, BajaRack, 2wd sway, Icon front, Overland Warehouse rear, Kurtfab v2.1 LCAs, MedicLinks, Slee SS lines, BB skids, Demello sliders & LCA ramps, All-Pro diff guard, TC full gusseted front, SW bumper
www.mikestang.com
Mikestang is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-02-2016, 04:41 PM   #5
CollieRunner
Rookie
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portland Oregon and Slow Gin Fizz
Posts: 10
Default

That's what I was thinking of doing.

While I have replace a rear axle seal, both front axles, and the struts and shocks on all 4 corners on this 4runner. I'm a little hesitant about pressing the ball joint out/in. I don't want to end up ****creek the only car I have.

Thanks
CollieRunner is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-02-2016, 04:58 PM   #6
Mikestang
Don't follow this guy
 
Mikestang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: The wild wild west
Posts: 4,421
Default

Well, I didn't mean you specifically have to do it, can pay a shop you trust to do it, doesn't take very long for the pros. Good luck, I've had Moogs up front for like 60k miles and they've been great.
__________________
'07 Ltd 4Runner v8 4x4 - Midland 75-822 + Wilson 5000, Garmin 276c, Magnaflow catback, Kurtfab front diff brace, 265/70/17 Goodyear ATA on Robby Gordon Signatures, Spidertrax, 3/4" BL, BajaRack, 2wd sway, Icon front, Overland Warehouse rear, Kurtfab v2.1 LCAs, MedicLinks, Slee SS lines, BB skids, Demello sliders & LCA ramps, All-Pro diff guard, TC full gusseted front, SW bumper
www.mikestang.com
Mikestang is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-03-2016, 11:32 AM   #7
chayos00
Desert SW Roamer
 
chayos00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Desert Southwest
Posts: 361
Default

The Moogs are good! But if you try it yourself, be warned, I had to take my lower control arms off to have a buddy press them out with his 20 ton press as the tool from autozone wouldn't fit on the control arms and no body had the right adapter for it either.
__________________
2008 SR5 4x4 V6 Salsa Red Pearl w/Taupe Interior
Mods: OW 2.0", LR UCA's, 285/70R17 Cooper STT Pro's w/Spidertrax 1.25" Spacer, Magnaflow 14586 Muffler, SpeedoHealer, Stubbs HD-SKO Sliders
Audio: Eclipse HU CD8445, Polk Audio db6501 6.5" Components, Polk Audio db351 3.5" in factory tweeter location, 2 Sundown SA12's @ 1200W RMS
"I'm an AMERICAN by birth and a VETERAN by choice"
chayos00 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-03-2016, 03:40 PM   #8
Darklight
Old Timer
 
Darklight's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Charlotte,NC
Posts: 1,546
Default

If you have the right ball joint kit adapter (one with a lot of pieces) it is best to install it with the control are on the truck. If you're able to get the stock ball joint out you should be able to press the new one on. It is reversal of the parts used just put a small receiver cup on the top side to allow for it to be pressed on. That and a slightly smaller cup on the bottom to press it on. It is a pain but doable.
__________________
2008 Black 4X4Runner SR5 V6, Clazzio black Leather, LR UCA's ,OW Radflo 2.5"coilovers & MetalTech stage 5 LT rear, 285/75R16 KM2, Strike 6 16x8.5 -6 wheels , Demello offroad 3 hoop, 4X4Labs rear, TJM 10K winch, ATO, RCI ,BudBuilt, Stubbs sliders, A-ha diff bracket 4Crawler B/L 3/4", DynoMax , K&N , Speski barrier, sPOD, ARB CKM12, ARB locker front/rear 4.56 gears WMW roof rack
Darklight's Build
Darklight is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-03-2016, 05:30 PM   #9
chayos00
Desert SW Roamer
 
chayos00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Desert Southwest
Posts: 361
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darklight View Post
If you have the right ball joint kit adapter (one with a lot of pieces) it is best to install it with the control are on the truck. If you're able to get the stock ball joint out you should be able to press the new one on. It is reversal of the parts used just put a small receiver cup on the top side to allow for it to be pressed on. That and a slightly smaller cup on the bottom to press it on. It is a pain but doable.
The adapter setup from Autozone, Nappa, and O'Reilly's didn't fit the lower arms for my truck. I checked each store after it wouldn't work for me.
__________________
2008 SR5 4x4 V6 Salsa Red Pearl w/Taupe Interior
Mods: OW 2.0", LR UCA's, 285/70R17 Cooper STT Pro's w/Spidertrax 1.25" Spacer, Magnaflow 14586 Muffler, SpeedoHealer, Stubbs HD-SKO Sliders
Audio: Eclipse HU CD8445, Polk Audio db6501 6.5" Components, Polk Audio db351 3.5" in factory tweeter location, 2 Sundown SA12's @ 1200W RMS
"I'm an AMERICAN by birth and a VETERAN by choice"
chayos00 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-03-2016, 06:13 PM   #10
Darklight
Old Timer
 
Darklight's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Charlotte,NC
Posts: 1,546
Default

I think the one I used was a 23 piece kit. I know a couple folks that couldn't find the right one and had a hard time.

Link to kit


http://m.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds
__________________
2008 Black 4X4Runner SR5 V6, Clazzio black Leather, LR UCA's ,OW Radflo 2.5"coilovers & MetalTech stage 5 LT rear, 285/75R16 KM2, Strike 6 16x8.5 -6 wheels , Demello offroad 3 hoop, 4X4Labs rear, TJM 10K winch, ATO, RCI ,BudBuilt, Stubbs sliders, A-ha diff bracket 4Crawler B/L 3/4", DynoMax , K&N , Speski barrier, sPOD, ARB CKM12, ARB locker front/rear 4.56 gears WMW roof rack
Darklight's Build

Last edited by Darklight; 02-03-2016 at 06:20 PM.
Darklight is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-09-2016, 01:01 AM   #11
CollieRunner
Rookie
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portland Oregon and Slow Gin Fizz
Posts: 10
Default

I decided to do both lower ball joints.

I finished one today. I'll only took 4 hours, mostly fighting rusty bolts, the control arm assembly(attached to the ball joint) and that clip holding the original ball joint on (basically the whole process). This is what I get for buying a 4runner out of northern Kentucky.

I also put on some of the ebay knock off total chaos ucas while i was working on it. Which I'll have to take off the passenger side one soon, the zerk fitting snapped off after I installed it.

BTW Thank you for letting me know i need the large ball joint kit. I picked one up at carquest (advanced auto).

Hopefully all this work means no more clunk and no more fighting a twitchy 4runner when I head out in to the wind on I84 in the gorge.
CollieRunner is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-31-2016, 11:36 AM   #12
bahndrvr
High Tech Red Neck:)
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Melbourne, Fl
Posts: 108
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CollieRunner View Post
I decided to do both lower ball joints.

I finished one today. I'll only took 4 hours, mostly fighting rusty bolts, the control arm assembly(attached to the ball joint) and that clip holding the original ball joint on (basically the whole process). This is what I get for buying a 4runner out of northern Kentucky.

I also put on some of the ebay knock off total chaos ucas while i was working on it. Which I'll have to take off the passenger side one soon, the zerk fitting snapped off after I installed it.

BTW Thank you for letting me know i need the large ball joint kit. I picked one up at carquest (advanced auto).

Hopefully all this work means no more clunk and no more fighting a twitchy 4runner when I head out in to the wind on I84 in the gorge.
How are the ebay uppers holding up, and the moogs treating you good? I own the big kit your talking about for removal, and I am about to order and tackle all the front balljoints, and I need the upper arms and considering the ebay silver suicides over the only other alternative that cost roughly the same, the tuff countries.
__________________
2003 4Runner SR5 v8 -
Temp Front: Top hat spacer 2.5" on Tacoma struts/springs
Rear: TJM/King heavy extended Tacoma shocks
315 BFG AT KO2's (35's) - Other stuff done, 6th 4Runner

2014 Wrangler Unlimited Sahara - Wife's
bahndrvr is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-31-2016, 12:10 PM   #13
CollieRunner
Rookie
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portland Oregon and Slow Gin Fizz
Posts: 10
Default

Well the ebay arms I got were from the days when the inner bushing was too short causing the poly bushings to fail. I tried to shave them down when I installed them but that didn't work. Otherwise the arms are great and the uni ball has held up to a lot of abuse. They've been on for about 20k now. I know the price is way up on those last I looked. I only paid 200 for mine. I would still get them or the JBA uca's.

I ordered new inner sleeves and poly bushing from All-Pro a month ago. I just haven't had time to install them.

The Moog ball joints held up well, but back in May/June I replaced the whole lower control arms. I picked some off a 4runner with low miles at a auto yard near Mt. Rainier. They were super clean. I couldn't get anyone to align the 4runner properly because a couple Cam bolts were frozen.

My next fix is figuring out what to do about the rubbing at full lock. The tires rub the frame on the back and the sway bar on the front :-( . I have 32 in tires. More lift? Or maybe metal tech 1in tire spacers.
CollieRunner is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-31-2016, 12:33 PM   #14
bahndrvr
High Tech Red Neck:)
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Melbourne, Fl
Posts: 108
Default

Thanks, the ebay arms are 320 now, which sucks but honestly - compared to the tuff country arms at 303, and I have a discount to get them for around 275, I'm still leaning towards the ebay ones.... I love the JBA's but they are 450 and well, that's too much right now for me. If I could get a discount I may be able to swing them but I'm also buying lower ball joints, and the diff drop as I have spacers and killed my CV's by having too much droop, hoping the diff drop will help me not kill the CV's as quickly and I put the swaybar back in which is limiting my droop by almost 2 inches - measured...
__________________
2003 4Runner SR5 v8 -
Temp Front: Top hat spacer 2.5" on Tacoma struts/springs
Rear: TJM/King heavy extended Tacoma shocks
315 BFG AT KO2's (35's) - Other stuff done, 6th 4Runner

2014 Wrangler Unlimited Sahara - Wife's
bahndrvr is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-31-2016, 05:46 PM   #15
Wanderer
Driver
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 179
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CollieRunner View Post
My next fix is figuring out what to do about the rubbing at full lock. The tires rub the frame on the back and the sway bar on the front :-( . I have 32 in tires. More lift? Or maybe metal tech 1in tire spacers.
Which tires and wheels do you have, and where on the frame is it rubbing?
__________________
2006 4Runner 4WD V6 daily driver
Falken A/T3W LT285/70/17 and Cooper S/T Maxx LT255/75R17; TrueTrac limited-slip rear diff
Icon 2.5" ext CDC shocks F/R w/ 2" lift springs; Light Racing UCAs
RCI skid plates; OPOR lower links, rock sliders, and link guards
SuperBump™ bumpstops front; Timbren Active Offroad rear
Wanderer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Parking brake question(s) / sqeak noise Mephisto 4th Gen 4Runner & Hilux Surf 4 04-27-2012 12:37 PM
Bad bearing or Diff noise? Please help!!! Zstampe 4th Gen 4Runner & Hilux Surf 25 04-17-2012 09:19 PM
Front Driver Side Axle Seal Leak t-rex grrr Maintenance 23 01-25-2012 05:56 PM
Front and rear winch setup Blowout Outfitting 11 10-26-2009 04:18 PM
front driver side brake caliper eli23 Maintenance 4 10-10-2009 07:15 PM


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:37 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright © 2005-2013 Toyota120.com