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Unread 12-08-2014, 09:27 AM   #21
Mike07SE
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Just curious, did you get any resolve to this?
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Unread 12-12-2014, 09:21 AM   #22
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I'm curious as well if you ever found the root cause.

I've also noticed additional vibrations when I got both front CVs replaced a few months ago. I don;t hink mine areas bad as yours, but the vibrations are more noticable that they were before the work.
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Unread 01-10-2015, 03:15 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike07SE View Post
Just curious, did you get any resolve to this?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbiii View Post
I'm curious as well if you ever found the root cause.

I've also noticed additional vibrations when I got both front CVs replaced a few months ago. I don;t hink mine areas bad as yours, but the vibrations are more noticable that they were before the work.
No. I'm just getting around to trying to diagnose it today. I have the entire front end off the ground and I'm spinning a tire/wheel and there is significant binding. I'm just not sure how much it should take to overcome the center diff. Should it require even force all the way around, or should it be jerky? If that makes sense. It is not smooth when I rotate a tire. It catches. I checked the bearings first and they seem fine.

I'm leaning toward having the factory CV's rebuilt by a performance shop and swapping them back in.
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Unread 01-11-2015, 05:25 PM   #24
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Well, looks like it's definitely the front left inner CV. I noticed a lot of movement in that area while I had the front wheels off yesterday, so I mounted a gopro to watch and went for a drive. Here's the result. Any thoughts on the condition of the bearings in the front diff? Do you guys think this can this be fixed with a high quality/OEM CV that can handle this droop? The tech that installed these Autozone CVs install found the front diff mounting bolts extremely loose, perhaps because the old CV was failing and shook them loose, and perhaps because they had been left loose by the shop that installed the diff, which might have lead to premature failure of the OEM CV. I found all sorts of stuff loose after that job. Expat might remember loaning me an allen wrench in Death Valley to tighten the drain plug they left loose. The top bolts for the coilovers were all loose. I don't know how anyone ever trusts a shop anymore. It's always a disaster. Just had my M3 in for the break in service and they reused non-reusable parts. Anyway, I digress. I want my truck fixed, gents. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

video
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Unread 01-12-2015, 12:28 AM   #25
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The amount of movement of the CV end going into the diff looks like there is an issue with the diff bearing/setup. Is there any lateral play on that end that goes into the diff? Not talking about the shaft part, just the metal end going into the diff.
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Unread 01-12-2015, 12:43 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by bulldog View Post
The amount of movement of the CV end going into the diff looks like there is an issue with the diff bearing/setup. Is there any lateral play on that end that goes into the diff? Not talking about the shaft part, just the metal end going into the diff.
I'll take a look. This diff was built by ECGS and should have their brass bushings that address this issue, but with the whole diff being loose when we got in there to replace the CV's there's no telling what happened.
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Unread 01-12-2015, 07:34 AM   #27
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WOW ,with that much flopping around and you have no leak at the diff seal is hard to believe . sure looks like somethings not right in side with diff bearing and possible bushing . I would think about sending video to ecgs and ask for their opinion on fix .
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Unread 02-23-2015, 08:10 AM   #28
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I'm really sorry for my absence from this post as I think I can give you a good explanation. If this is over simplified I'm sorry, just covering the bases.

The inner joint of the axle is a triangle shaped tulip housing. On the end of the axle is a tripod assembly of wheels that goes inside of this tulip housing. As the assembly turns, the axle starts to bind up on the pinched in areas of the housing, then would spring loose when it got past this. I've attached a picture of my axle and housing when I was trying to diagnose this.



The end result of all of this is that I took the inner joints to a machine shop (JB's Auto Machine in Maryland) and had them mill it back 1/2". To put this in perspective, the edge of the notches furthest from the face of the housing for the boot and band clamp. This solve all of my problems and have not had any issues with bind, articulation of any kind, or boot leaking.

As far as the diff mounting goes, it is mounted by means of rubber bushings so this will allow movement, but loose bolts is a whole 'nother story. In any case be thankful that it was allowed to flex and move since if it were rigidly mounted more serious damage could have resulted.


**Slightly off topic, how did you go about mounting your camera in the wheel well there? I just got a GoPro and could've used this way back when when trying to diagnose my truck.
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Off Road: Fr: Radlfo 2.5" Ext. Travel (OW Spec w/600lb. spring) / Rr: MetalTech Long Travel | LR UCA | Toytec 1" Body Lift | Goodyear Duratrac 285/70R17 | Rear Diff Breather Mod
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Last edited by Mike07SE; 02-23-2015 at 08:14 AM.
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Unread 03-06-2015, 08:33 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike07SE View Post
I'm really sorry for my absence from this post as I think I can give you a good explanation. If this is over simplified I'm sorry, just covering the bases.

The inner joint of the axle is a triangle shaped tulip housing. On the end of the axle is a tripod assembly of wheels that goes inside of this tulip housing. As the assembly turns, the axle starts to bind up on the pinched in areas of the housing, then would spring loose when it got past this. I've attached a picture of my axle and housing when I was trying to diagnose this.



The end result of all of this is that I took the inner joints to a machine shop (JB's Auto Machine in Maryland) and had them mill it back 1/2". To put this in perspective, the edge of the notches furthest from the face of the housing for the boot and band clamp. This solve all of my problems and have not had any issues with bind, articulation of any kind, or boot leaking.

As far as the diff mounting goes, it is mounted by means of rubber bushings so this will allow movement, but loose bolts is a whole 'nother story. In any case be thankful that it was allowed to flex and move since if it were rigidly mounted more serious damage could have resulted.


**Slightly off topic, how did you go about mounting your camera in the wheel well there? I just got a GoPro and could've used this way back when when trying to diagnose my truck.
Thanks for the reply. I haven't torn into it yet so it's still "in time" to help.

I mounted it on the front Budbuilt skid with a standard stick on motor sports mount and just avoided fully cranking the wheel to the right. It would have hit the gopro if I did that.
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Unread 03-06-2015, 09:18 PM   #30
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I had a similar problem when I swapped in Cardone CV axles and mine's full time 4wd as well. Vibration when accelerating/ End result was jobber CV's. The joints bind under load or when front end lifts. Oem ones probably have better joints and can take the extra droop (esp. with a lift + added angle). Swapped in a pair of used axles and its been fine.
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Unread 03-09-2015, 08:00 AM   #31
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I had a similar problem when I swapped in Cardone CV axles and mine's full time 4wd as well. Vibration when accelerating/ End result was jobber CV's. The joints bind under load or when front end lifts. Oem ones probably have better joints and can take the extra droop (esp. with a lift + added angle). Swapped in a pair of used axles and its been fine.
Yup, I did a set of Duralast's (Autozone?) to hold me over, and the results were much worse. I found that the dimensions of the inboard joint were not the same. The tulip housing's overall diameter was smaller and the pinched in area was also more pronounced than the OEM as well as severely reducing the amount of angle the axle can droop. This made the the bind occur much sooner than I originally had. Another downside to this is that the roller wheels and the tripod assembly itself on the end of the axle is much smaller than OEM as well = a lot weaker.

I do not understand what the logic is behind this with the rebuilder, unless the housing used is a generic size and they just machine the appropriate thread on there to save inventory and money.
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Off Road: Fr: Radlfo 2.5" Ext. Travel (OW Spec w/600lb. spring) / Rr: MetalTech Long Travel | LR UCA | Toytec 1" Body Lift | Goodyear Duratrac 285/70R17 | Rear Diff Breather Mod
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Last edited by Mike07SE; 03-25-2015 at 06:26 AM.
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Unread 03-09-2015, 10:47 AM   #32
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Damn, I should have read this thread. I swapped in an A1 Cardone CV assembly this week on the right side, and when turning right under accleration, i get violent vibration. I am having the shop rebuild the stock axle and swapping it back out, lesson learned.
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Unread 03-21-2015, 11:07 AM   #33
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Just following up for future readers of this thread. I found OEM CVs at http://toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com/ for $324 each. I called them to make sure it was the right part since I wasn't finding it anywhere else for less than $355. They said their web prices are below their employee discount prices so it's about as good as it gets. Part number is 43430-60061, and the name in the catalog is SHAFT ASSY, FRONT DRIVE, LH; SHAFT ASSY, FRONT DRIVE, RH. They are interchangeable. I bought two so we'll see if they fix the problem. I think I have the damn T-case leak too so I'll be digging into that next. Trying to get this thing trail ready and too busy.
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Unread 03-22-2015, 07:19 PM   #34
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I've heard good things about CVJ rebuilt axles based in Colorado. I plan on using these this summer when I have to replace my cv's.

http://www.cvjreman.com/axles.php
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Unread 03-23-2015, 09:14 AM   #35
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FYI, same results as everyone else, swapped out Cardone axle for rebuilt factory axle and no more vibration, good to go, what a pain in my ass
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Unread 03-25-2015, 06:28 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiplee View Post
Just following up for future readers of this thread. I found OEM CVs at http://toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com/ for $324 each. I called them to make sure it was the right part since I wasn't finding it anywhere else for less than $355. They said their web prices are below their employee discount prices so it's about as good as it gets. Part number is 43430-60061, and the name in the catalog is SHAFT ASSY, FRONT DRIVE, LH; SHAFT ASSY, FRONT DRIVE, RH. They are interchangeable. I bought two so we'll see if they fix the problem. I think I have the damn T-case leak too so I'll be digging into that next. Trying to get this thing trail ready and too busy.
Hopefully everything works out. I've bought a couple of OEM axles off of ebay (auto recyclers) to save money and have had them rebuilt. Good results thus far.
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Off Road: Fr: Radlfo 2.5" Ext. Travel (OW Spec w/600lb. spring) / Rr: MetalTech Long Travel | LR UCA | Toytec 1" Body Lift | Goodyear Duratrac 285/70R17 | Rear Diff Breather Mod
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Unread 03-27-2015, 08:58 AM   #37
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I've heard good things about CVJ rebuilt axles based in Colorado. I plan on using these this summer when I have to replace my cv's.

http://www.cvjreman.com/axles.php
x2 Mine have been holding up fabulously. Waaaaay cheaper than new OEM as well, even without a core and the silicone boots.

http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21382
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Unread 03-27-2015, 04:25 PM   #38
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x2 Mine have been holding up fabulously. Waaaaay cheaper than new OEM as well, even without a core and the silicone boots.

http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21382
Wow, I looked for weeks for a company that did factory reman'd CV's and didn't find these guys. Guess I'll have them build my factory cores for trail spares.
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Unread 12-23-2016, 09:10 AM   #39
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Hi Chiplee, I'm trying to solve for a similAr issue. Did the new CV axles solve the problem?

Thanks very much !
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