|06-13-2008, 11:17 AM||#1|
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: 39.5° N 119.86° W
Replacing the Front Brake Pads
Replacing the Front Brake Pads by expat
I'm a backyard mechanic so there is no expressed professionalism in my write up. Its only a guide and it is found in each box of OEM pads (albeit tiny tiny writing!).
Brakes are probably the most critical part of your truck. Take time and care and if unsure, either consult a manual or get someone professional to do it. Notwithstanding that, its an easy job.
On a spanner rating 1 - "Anyone older than 12yrs" to a 10 - "Professionals only" I'd say its a 3 spanner job.
I bought the following items
#Front pads OEM Toyota Dealer $70
Made by Sumitomo and stamped 477-J9, 66 x 13, PS558H-FF
Toyota Part no.04465-35290 Assy Id 477-J9 Model LC120
#Can of spray brake cleaner
#Tin of brake grease
Wearing gloves and eye protection
1. Jack front and place on stands.
2. Remove front wheels
3. Pull two small pins that hold the retainer pins
4. Remove the anti rattle spring clip that crosses over the pads and disc
5. Using a flat end chisel or screwdriver gently prise between the pad and each piston (two on each pad).
6. Remove the retainer pins (two of - one top and one bottom)
7. Remove pads and the shims that should come out with the pads by sliding them aft out of the caliper
8. Clean the shims firstly with rag to remove excess grease and then with light wire brush to remove gunk built up in between rubber surface on the one side and rust build up on the piston side
9. Coat both sides of the shims with brake grease
10. Place shims onto pads.
11. Lever caliper pistons all the way back into their boots to accomodate the extra thickness of the new pads.
12. Slide new pads and greased shims back into caliper.
13. Slide retainer pins (2 of) thru the holes in the caliper and pads.
14. reconnect the anti rattle spring
15. Reconnect the two clips to the retainer pins
16. Pump brakes about six times to return pressure to piston against pads
17. Replace wheels and torque
18. Follow bed-in procedure to maximise pad/disc mating.
A few notes...
I never needed any additional brake fluid but had it just in case. I did undo the reservior cap because i was lead to believe this makes it easier to push the pistons in.
The first few applications of the brakes felt weak but as the bed-in procedure progressed, the brake effect returned to normal or slightly better.
I saw no need to use the brake cleaner.
My pads had been squealing for about two months under light braking. With the new pads is completly gone.
You can see that the old pads certainly had life left in them but I would say they were 3/4 worn.
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