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Unread 11-04-2013, 04:28 PM   #1
johnnywofee
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Default 2010,2011,2012 4runner Dual Battery (Tray$25, no Power Steering Reservoir relocation)

2010, 2011, 2012 4runner Dual Battery (Tray$25, no Power Steering Reservoir relocation, no drill)

Dear 4runner owners (2010, 2011 and 2012),

I took a research in the forum and found that there are some modifications for dual battery. Those tech/professional guys choose the ARB or tailor made a battery tray, relocate Power Steering for the project. It would be a little bit costly or may void warranty of your 4runner, not too many people capable to do.

I would like to bring up this project to those people who want to add the 2nd battery but you are not an expert in auto or mechanical stuffs. Please share your thoughts so that we can go through this project together.

Here are the objectives for our group discussion (if you want to join up for this project) :

Requirement:
1. Add 2nd battery (exactly fit into your 4runner under the hood), sufficient to supply power for normal duty use (e.g. light bar, sound, mobile device charger, jump start for emergency….)

2. No modification or drill under the hood (e.g. you do not want to relocate or modify the Power Steering Reservoir…, except run power cable through the firewall).

3. Minimum cost (battery tray, battery, battery isolator, power cable, fuse….)

4. No fancy operation required inside your car compartment (battery monitor, manual switch…), no drilling in your dash.

5. Simple cable connections of the battery isolator, simple operation for jump start.

6. Assume you are not an auto expert or mechanic tech guys (same as me). You do not have too much knowledge how to choose a battery tray, battery isolator… You may not even know too much how to use a screw driver properly.

Steps:

1. To start with, I target the battery Odyssey PC1200 ($220) which is also used in other threads of dual battery system of 4runner. It is small size and provide medium power, should be sufficient for most of the applications.

2. With minimum cost investment and lowest risk to verify if this is feasible, I have to find a battery tray to see if it can fit into the 4runner. I found a battery tray ($23) in Ebay which can fit EXACTLY under the hood. Yes, $23 only ! The supplier can modify the tray (make it compact, the lid bends upright, see photos below) without ADDITIONAL cost. This tray is thin (width X length X height) enough to fit into the slot ! No need to spend hundred dollars for the ARB battery tray !

3. Your initial investment is only $23 to see if it works before you proceed to buy those expensive items e.g. battery, isolator….

4. The challenge would be how to drill 3 holes on the base of this battery tray so that it can exactly mount on the empty slot. Stop here and think about it before go further.


Targeted Major Material:
Battery : Odyssey PC1200, $220
http://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-PC1200...=vglnk-c565-20


Battery Tray: Ebay, $23

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PC1200-Odyss...9d34d0&vxp=mtr


Battery Isolator : Battery Doctor 150 Amp, $82

http://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20092-...=vglnk-c565-20
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 4Runner Dual Battery Photo 3.jpg (3.16 MB, 49 views)
File Type: jpg 4Runner Dual Battery Photo 7.jpg (2.66 MB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg 4Runner Dual Battery Photo 11.jpg (3.21 MB, 35 views)
File Type: jpg 4Runner Dual Battery Photo 5.jpg (2.66 MB, 26 views)

Last edited by johnnywofee; 11-07-2013 at 10:04 AM.
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Unread 11-04-2013, 11:04 PM   #2
cruiserlarry
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Another option that has been used in hundreds of 4Runners, including Gen 5s, for those who want a field tested system used world-wide :

http://www.dirtyparts.com/store/deta...ISER/pid-83094
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Unread 11-05-2013, 10:31 AM   #3
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Default 2010, 2011, 2012 4runner dual battery

The DIRTY PARTS DUAL BATTERY TRAY KIT looks very professional :

Kit: $369
Battery Tray: $200
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Unread 11-06-2013, 02:35 PM   #4
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The dirty parts kit might be in my future. That is if I keep my truck.
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Unread 11-06-2013, 03:43 PM   #5
johnnywofee
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This is to update with a wiring diagram. It looks like that connection is simple without connect to Engine Start Power. It does not need any modification of the alternator as well.

http://www.batterymart.com/p-acc-200...-isolator.html
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Unread 11-07-2013, 12:05 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnywofee View Post
This is to update with a wiring diagram. It looks like that connection is simple without connect to Engine Start Power. It does not need any modification of the alternator as well.

http://www.batterymart.com/p-acc-200...-isolator.html
The 100 amp rating on the above unit is not high enough for use on an FJ - you need a 200 amp or larger if you want to be able to connect higher power accessories to the batteries, and to handle the 120 amp max output of the FJ's alternator.

REspectfully, I would suggest avoiding using this unit on any FJ system...
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Unread 11-07-2013, 10:07 AM   #7
johnnywofee
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Default Dual Battery FJ Cruiser / 4Runner (Battery Doctor 150 amp)

That is a good suggestion to think about if the Battery Doctor Isolator has enough rating. It is found that there is another FJ Cruiser Forum where an application used exactly the same model of Battery Doctor Isolator (150amp) in his FJ Cruiser. Please take a look of their complete setup here:

http://www.toyota4arab.com/forum/t205608.html

Please also give further comment of this application in FJ Cruiser. Did this FJ Cruiser setup has any potential issue?
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Unread 11-07-2013, 11:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnywofee View Post
That is a good suggestion to think about if the Battery Doctor Isolator has enough rating. It is found that there is another FJ Cruiser Forum where an application used exactly the same model of Battery Doctor Isolator (150amp) in his FJ Cruiser. Please take a look of their complete setup here:

http://www.toyota4arab.com/forum/t205608.html

Please also give further comment of this application in FJ Cruiser. Did this FJ Cruiser setup has any potential issue?
There are several issues, which is why we designed the system differently. The FJs have a history of issues with the inner fender wells, which is why we don't mount the battery at the front of the engine compartment. The battery cables appear to be undersized for the purpose of linking two batteries, and a 150 amp max will not allow for use of a winch. I'd suggest checking the field experience of that unit before committing it to your system...
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Unread 11-08-2013, 12:27 PM   #9
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For the winch application, how does it related to the max amp power of the battery isolator. The winch should connect directly to the 2nd battery, right? When it operate, there should have no current drawn from the main battery, it won't affect the battery isolator max amp power. Is this true? Pls give comment.

For the location of 2nd battery of FJ Cruiser, there are still many people install the 2nd battery at the front of the engine compartment:

http://archive.fjcc.com.au/forum/ele...ttery-install/

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forum...ry-system.html
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Unread 11-08-2013, 11:38 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnywofee View Post
For the winch application, how does it related to the max amp power of the battery isolator. The winch should connect directly to the 2nd battery, right? When it operate, there should have no current drawn from the main battery, it won't affect the battery isolator max amp power. Is this true? Pls give comment.

For the location of 2nd battery of FJ Cruiser, there are still many people install the 2nd battery at the front of the engine compartment:

http://archive.fjcc.com.au/forum/ele...ttery-install/

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forum...ry-system.html
One of the primary purposes of a dual battery system is to provide extra reserve capacity for running accessories when needed, to reduce the load on the alternator. The winch should always be connected to the main battery which has the most direct run to the alternator. The winch is a very-high-curent draw accessory, and dual batteries help prevent alternator damage. But in order to help under load, the isolator (or solenoid which I prefer) must be capable of handling the current a winch can draw - sometimes over 400 amps, which will destroy a 150 amp isolator. The solenoids we use in the Dirty Parts kits are rated for 200 amp constant draw, and 500 amp surges, like you would get when running a winch under full load.

(A side note - Just because folks install things a certain way, and post it up on-line, doesn't mean that it is a good or recommended way to do it. Experience and research should have a bigger influence on your decision, IMO.
Your posts so far have referenced the Middle East and Australia, which are both completely different operating environments from here in So Cal, where there are more FJs than both of those area combined )
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Unread 11-12-2013, 11:02 AM   #11
johnnywofee
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Great to know more about the winch application on a dual battery system.

If the winch connects to the main battery (where the alternator attached). How does it related to the 2nd battery ?

Should the 2nd battery be isolated from the main battery when you use the winch?

If the 2nd battery should be isolated from the main battery during winch operation, there is no need to have high amp power of the isolator (or solenoid)? Is this true?

Please give more ideas.
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