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Unread 03-03-2008, 01:42 AM   #1
T?@\7
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Default so I FLOODED my truck

Sh|tdamnit!
Well, it finally happened.
Lastnight around 7ish I get a call from a friend who is stuck in his 04 trd taco (2wd) in a nice little water hole/crossing. So i call another friend with an 04 f150 who has most of our straps since he get stuck the most ;-) , and we decide to both roll out there and see what the deal is and get our taco friend out.
My friend with the f150 lives about 8.5 minutes away, whereas im about 20... so he go there alot sooner and was able to extract the tacoma with no probs. So i get there and the tacoma and f150 are just chilling, and then me taco friend decides to charge the hole again, since eveyone is there anyways.... I wasnt in the mood at all for water or mud action, but once i saw my buddy in his taco (WHO NEVER OFFROADS) ready to charge the hole i got amped up and decided to try and shed some more light on the situation (since it was dark). I approach the water crossing from another side and am cruising fine in knee deep water with taller grass and mashed grass/mud bottom and then the NOSE DIVES. As soon as it dipped i hit the brakes and threw it into reverse to try and get out but it was too late.....
Less than a minute later water starts to seep in from the lowest front corners of the doors, black water. It flows in faster on the right since that side sunk 2-3 inches more....i got about six inches in the pass. footwell, it covered half of the front right JBL speaker and a portion od the rear. On the drivers side the water reached the lower tip of the gas pedal and some creaped to the rear, but not as much as the right rear.

So i sat in this hole for about an hour waiting for my friend with a rubicon to come and HOPEFULLY snatch me out. I was skeptical, but not as much as the jeep owner. The terrain he was pulling from was uneven and watery/soft. We tried a slow pull but that got us nowhere, but 2-3 small snatches and i was good to go. My front tires were submerged, totally out of sight and my rear was on fine ground (knee deep water, grass mud).
I dont know how deep the hole was, and dont care too :-) but its DEEP...
SO we drive to my friends house for the ufc fight (taco and rubi) and i leave the truck running for about 3 rs idling on full blast foot air on 75 degrees to work on drying out the carpet...well after about 3 or so hours i come out and the truck is no longer running, but only making ticking sounds, so im kinda worried. I thought at first i ran out of gas, but rememberd i had about a half tank, and idling for 3-4 hours wont drink all that down.... so im starting to think electrical EEK It was strange bc even without the key in the ignition the CEL/ AT oil temp were on which was weird....
So I leave it overnight with the windows down for drying out, and wake up in the morning to the abs system making noise , like its trying to work but for what......meanwhile there is NO key in the ignition, this is the truck just sitting, indicator lights still on......
Now we start looking under the carpet/moldings to see where the ecu was or hopefully wasnt and find the source of issues...

So to the damage/ issues:
1) the water was 6+-" deep in the pass. foot well (half way up the jbl speaker), and after taking the trim out down there I saw that there ARE HEAVY PLUGS/connectors down there...disconnect them and water and black mud particles come out. im like well fvck. there were 3-4 and i disconnected them all, shook as much water and shat out as i could and then sprayed wd40 in there to displace the water and push it out, which worked amazingly..
2)the pass speakers were both under considerable water and I didnt expect them to make, but they did! so good there.....

3) THE MAIN ISSUE: CARPET DAMAGE & CLEANSING
Im looking at taking out my seats, front two and rear bottom ATLEAST and removing all the carpet. There are mud particles and water chilling underneath the carpet and padding as we speak which i am not cool with. This is not something ive ever done, never wanted to do and am not looking forward too. I feel like its gonna be hard to get the truck interior, carpet mostly, back in as tight as it was. However, I HAVE NO CHOICE but to take it out and clean the crap out of the floor of the truck AND the carpet itself. I dont know how much a new carpet molding is but im sure it aint cheap (unfortunately).

So I would like to hear from anyone who has dealt with some water on the interior and MOST specifiaclly how the removal of the carpet in a 4th gen goes......
Im sorry for the LONG ASS post, but im kinda scatter brained on this right now and I may have left some stuff out, BUT IF YOU KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT WATER & INTERIORS PLZ help me out.

I have a small wet/dry vac ready and thats about it, I need to get some carpet cleaner. I think im gonna dedicate this whole week to taking care of this. If you read all this I appreciate it, and THANKS to anyone with advice.

pics of the outside waterline and me stuck to come soon.

Ray
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Unread 03-03-2008, 02:34 PM   #2
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Dunno about the cleaning of water, since I try to avoid noghttime wheeling and water/mud (in geeneral I try to ovoid either one on its own as well).

Either way to get the carpet out you will have to pull the seats out (front and bottom back), remove the center console (see ipod write up for help), then just pull the plastic strips on the doorssills and B pillar plastic. It should be pretty straightforward how to get the carpet out then. Their si some underfelt in some areas of the carpet, which you will probably have to dry out properly. This job takes quite abit of time, so don't try to rush it.

Once the carpet is out you should be able to get everythign cleaned up nicely. Most electronic are located pretty high, but if you have electric seats you should chekc the function (also lube the seat rails irrespective).

Good luck.
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Unread 03-05-2008, 02:41 AM   #3
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Thanks Bulldog.
I tend to do most of my wheeling at night actually... and whether or not I go through mud or water depends on my mood for the evening. I just got excited about my friend getting excited and ended up getting into a situation. It MUST be the deepest spot around that area because ive pretty much been everywhere else....
REGARDLESS, a hard lesson learned.

The cleaning of the carpet is going great and i removed all of the underlying insulation and rinsed and shampood the hell out of it. Im considering buying new insulation and using it either in conjunction iwth the old stuff or by itself, I think autozone or one of those places could find a roll..... So for so good. oh, I wasnt able to totally remove the front seats b/c of a wire that i cant find either end of, im pretty sure its for the dvd players in the headrests; HOWEVER, i have 95% range of motion with that wire and am able to get all up in there ;-) moving the seat either which way..
Tonight i put two "DampRid" tubs in the truck and it seemed to be working (supposedly the crystals turn to water? idk) Tommorow more shampooing of the carpet... I bought more carpet cleaners, and will continue using the wet/dry vac, which is GOD SENT.

Im having only two probs
1) my driver window only goes up or down in the buttons 'auto' position, but it must be held not clicked once lik usual, so its no longer auto... the pass. goes up or down but no more auto function. (EDIT- just remembered no auto on pass. side, cant remember issue too tired, will report black in am;-))

2) my keyless entry/alarm no longer works. discovered this at walmart while getting damprid, simplegreeen etc etc

:-(

I re-opened the plugs that were effected and gave em one more good blast of wd40, left them open, with the damp rid and the foot heater on 75 HIGH. The plugs are still open with the damprid, but i only let the truck run for like 45min... Im hoping that any remaining issues (ie water/mud) in the plugs will be secreted and the truck will function normally... which might be asking a tad much. ill post black, i mean back soon.

Ray

Last edited by T?@\7; 03-05-2008 at 02:43 AM.
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Unread 03-05-2008, 12:26 PM   #4
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The driver window, moonroof and rear hatch window all have auto functions. However if they loose power you have to reset them to work again. You reset them by opening the window/roof all the way and then holding the open button down for a couple of seconds. Then you close it all the way and hold the button down for a couple of seconds. Thsi will reste the function and they should work as normal.

For the remote key try to clean all connectors and then disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes.
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Unread 03-05-2008, 05:26 PM   #5
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Thank you Andries.

Today whilst running an errand my CEL came on, so i went to the dealer, which I trust bc the service manager is a friend of mine...
Anyways, turns out the CEL came on because some sort of EVAP system (having to do with fuel i think) had sucked up some water, they dried it out and so far so good, no more CEL.
Then i get the bad news that there some water in both diff's, so they flush both of them. The tech said that there should be no long term ill effects on the diffs once they are flushed.... is this true?
And also found out that my front brakes are <10%.... which isnt major.....
I JUST HOPE MY DIFFS WILL BE OKAY.
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Unread 03-05-2008, 06:01 PM   #6
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Pics sorry for the crappy quality, my friend didnt use a flash and was obviously less stable than a tripod.


waterline on pass side.
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Unread 03-06-2008, 01:24 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T?@\7 View Post
Thank you Andries.

Today whilst running an errand my CEL came on, so i went to the dealer, which I trust bc the service manager is a friend of mine...
Anyways, turns out the CEL came on because some sort of EVAP system (having to do with fuel i think) had sucked up some water, they dried it out and so far so good, no more CEL.
Then i get the bad news that there some water in both diff's, so they flush both of them. The tech said that there should be no long term ill effects on the diffs once they are flushed.... is this true?
And also found out that my front brakes are <10%.... which isnt major.....
I JUST HOPE MY DIFFS WILL BE OKAY.
Diffs should be just fine after they replaced the oil. Make sure to check the transfer case and tranny while they are at it.
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Unread 03-06-2008, 09:01 AM   #8
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I got water in a rear axle once and had to pull the shafts and clean the tube out. There is always a little water / oil left when you change the oil. Two oil changes did not clear it up. The oil kept turning cloudy. After the clean out of the axle, I added extended breathers - they are a must for water. This is going to be one of my first mods to my 2004.

I'd check the oil in a few weeks. If it's gray - you'll need to clean the axle housing.

Another problem cropped up - sand in the oil seals. This allowed oil to get into my drum brakes. I'm not that familiar with the new 4Runner's rear brakes, but this might be an issue also.

Quick question, do the transmission and T-Case have breathers? My old 'Runner did not. If they do, I'm going to remotely vent them also. Cheap insurance.

Steve
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Unread 03-06-2008, 11:19 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNcaveman View Post
I got water in a rear axle once and had to pull the shafts and clean the tube out. There is always a little water / oil left when you change the oil. Two oil changes did not clear it up. The oil kept turning cloudy. After the clean out of the axle, I added extended breathers - they are a must for water. This is going to be one of my first mods to my 2004.

I'd check the oil in a few weeks. If it's gray - you'll need to clean the axle housing.

Another problem cropped up - sand in the oil seals. This allowed oil to get into my drum brakes. I'm not that familiar with the new 4Runner's rear brakes, but this might be an issue also.

Quick question, do the transmission and T-Case have breathers? My old 'Runner did not. If they do, I'm going to remotely vent them also. Cheap insurance.

Steve
Good point on checking the oil after a while.

Teh transfer and tranny have breather lines that lead seem to go to the top of the bellhousing by the firewall.
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Unread 03-06-2008, 01:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Good point on checking the oil after a while.

Teh transfer and tranny have breather lines that lead seem to go to the top of the bellhousing by the firewall.
Is this correct? I have seen the two breathers you are talking about, but never followed them to their sources myself. I originally read that one was the transmission (and the transfer case is vented to the transmission) and one is the front diff. But after reading this:

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forum...ather-mod.html

I am not so sure. It makes me wonder if the 4Runner needs the same. Did Toyota really extend the 4Runner trans breather, but not the FJ's? I have it on my list to check out the transfer case, transmission, and front diff myself to make sure...

Last edited by jbs11; 03-06-2008 at 01:10 PM. Reason: spelling
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Unread 03-06-2008, 02:51 PM   #11
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do you guys think itd be ok to use this style of insulation under the carpets?

Its self adhesive and about 1/8" thick, around $15 and more than an ample amount.
its meant for heating/cooling systems
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Unread 03-06-2008, 04:46 PM   #12
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The insulation under the carpet is usually for noise, not heat, so you might want to find something like Dynamat instead.
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Unread 03-06-2008, 04:53 PM   #13
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thanks for the input.
I went to homedepot just now and got some pink & multicolored, undercarpet padding, it was $25 for 6' x 9'. It reminds me of the foam version of particle board.
I think its supposed to rain tonight AND tommorow so I dont know if ill be able to work efficiently and effectively. The carpet is smelling really GOOD, and so is the insulation.... So i think we will be good to go.
Im going to have ALL fluids flushed/changed over this weekend. Im glad this **** is almost over
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Unread 03-06-2008, 05:02 PM   #14
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Be thankful you didn't end up soaking the engine, transmission and electronics. It could have ended up beign a lot more $$$$ to fix.
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Unread 03-06-2008, 05:15 PM   #15
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ive been saying my prayers and hail marys since that water first started to enter my cab!
I hydrolocked the motor and fried the ecu in my 2000 prelude, which is LESS than fun.
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Unread 03-07-2008, 10:36 AM   #16
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First let me say I only have a third gen and don't know the set-up of the fourth gen.

I do know that a lot of the third gen people do the diff extender as a mod. I'm not exactly sure why the mod is so popular because the OEM breather is a one way valve.
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Unread 03-07-2008, 11:22 AM   #17
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I think on th 4th gens, atleast im pretty sure, that there is a breather for the front but not rear diff. I extended my rear breather up into my gas fill area, so I cant really figure out where water would squeeze in since both breathers were far out of the water.....
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Unread 03-07-2008, 01:40 PM   #18
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the rear diff breather on the 3rd and 4th gens are the same. It is a valve, but the axle still sucks in water if it is below the waterline for longer periods of time. Especially if stuck. Extending the breather allows it to sick air from higher up.
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Unread 03-08-2008, 12:15 AM   #19
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Quote:
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but the axle still sucks in water if it is below the waterline for longer periods of time. Especially if stuck.
Where would it suck water in? I was sitting there for around 1 hour.
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Unread 03-08-2008, 01:51 AM   #20
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Quote:
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Where would it suck water in? I was sitting there for around 1 hour.
Here's a video on diff breather extensions (via T4R.org)
Short answer to your question is that water is sucked in through the axel seals.

Also, moving the diff breather valve to a higher point just protects the diff from a leaky breather valve.
Replacing the breather valve with a breather filter (mounted high up) eliminates the vacuum in the diff.

Last edited by Chuck; 03-08-2008 at 02:09 AM.
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