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Unread 11-14-2016, 08:33 PM   #21
AWSUMDC
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Originally Posted by Darklight View Post
Wyatt, I know you guys have done more than a couple of these conversions and swaps now. I feel comfortable asking, how long do you estimate a project like this will take in your shop?

Bobby
We're getting better with the time now. I'm thinking this one will take just at 2 months once we start cutting. This one is going to have a ton of work done to it. Inside and out. I'm not full time in my construction company any more and soon should be out of it completely which will help in cutting the time frames even further.

The key is to keep the customers from adding stuff. LOL which always happens and extends the time frames.

But I want them to have what they want so I'll never ask them to stop adding unless it doesn't make sense for the project.

Just to give you an idea as to the extent of this one.

Front and rear three link kept inside the wheel wells, they wont intrude into the engine bay or the bed, Dana 60 style axles front and rear, ARB lockers front and rear, Fiber glass fenders front and rear, Bed shell stays on. reinforced frame front front to back, Crawler box and twin stick t case, interior work for controls, 40" tires, hydro assist steering, enough lights to lite up a stadium, front winch and possibly a rear one as well, compression adjusting coilovers front and rear plus all the other little details that RST is known for.

There is going to be a ton of stuff put into this build. I just went over with the owner today as to some calculations that called for greater strengthening of the rear frame section than what we normally do. That by itself is going to add a week because we'll need to lift the entire body from the frame to complete what we need to.

This is going to be a fun project for me. Plus I love working with this owner.
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Unread 11-14-2016, 11:11 PM   #22
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Default So who's truck is in for a full SAS at RST

I can't wait to see this on a trip when it's done.

If I win the lottery some day would you do all this to my 5th Gen Wyatt?


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Unread 11-15-2016, 05:31 AM   #23
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I can't wait to see this on a trip when it's done.

If I win the lottery some day would you do all this to my 5th Gen Wyatt?


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Yep. I've been wanting to do a 5th gen runner. We almost did Rays but talked him into doing his Tacoma instead. Got on the cover of a magazine. He was stoked.
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Unread 11-15-2016, 09:28 AM   #24
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Wyatt, thanks for the info. I know you guys do a great job and know these trucks inside and out. With that said would it be easier to do a sac on a 2wd or 4wd 4Runner? Just curious really.

I have been rolling on 4.56"s front/rear stuffed with arb's for over a year now. Thinking it's time for an upgrade lol.

Mine only needs a crawl box, twin sticks t-case, sac front with rear upgrade at this point. I like the dynatrac D60 option or rock jock 60. Already plummed and wired for arbs. Not opposed to a diamond custom front with 9.5" LC third front/rear stuffed with arb and 4.88"s. I wouldn't go past a 37" tire. It shouldn't be to hard right

Bobby
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Unread 11-15-2016, 12:21 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darklight View Post
Wyatt, thanks for the info. I know you guys do a great job and know these trucks inside and out. With that said would it be easier to do a sac on a 2wd or 4wd 4Runner? Just curious really.

I have been rolling on 4.56"s front/rear stuffed with arb's for over a year now. Thinking it's time for an upgrade lol.

Mine only needs a crawl box, twin sticks t-case, sac front with rear upgrade at this point. I like the dynatrac D60 option or rock jock 60. Already plummed and wired for arbs. Not opposed to a diamond custom front with 9.5" LC third front/rear stuffed with arb and 4.88"s. I wouldn't go past a 37" tire. It shouldn't be to hard right

Bobby
It's generally easier to do the 2wd version if your going to SAC. and do a t case change. You just need the 4wd transmission. However, it's not that tough dealing with the 4th gen runners. I'm not opposed to the Diamond with the 9.5" LC third but GOOD LORD IS THAT THING BIG!!!!!!!!! You'll need 40's with that axle. It's massive!!!. I like the Currie or Dynatrac much better. But thats just me.

We can do anything you'd like though. Just let me know.

Follow along as we do this truck. You'll love it.
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Unread 11-15-2016, 08:39 PM   #26
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Maybe one day this may be in the future for my Runner!
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Unread 11-16-2016, 08:44 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWSUMDC View Post
We're getting better with the time now. I'm thinking this one will take just at 2 months once we start cutting. This one is going to have a ton of work done to it. Inside and out. I'm not full time in my construction company any more and soon should be out of it completely which will help in cutting the time frames even further.

The key is to keep the customers from adding stuff. LOL which always happens and extends the time frames.

But I want them to have what they want so I'll never ask them to stop adding unless it doesn't make sense for the project.

Just to give you an idea as to the extent of this one.

Front and rear three link kept inside the wheel wells, they wont intrude into the engine bay or the bed, Dana 60 style axles front and rear, ARB lockers front and rear, Fiber glass fenders front and rear, Bed shell stays on. reinforced frame front front to back, Crawler box and twin stick t case, interior work for controls, 40" tires, hydro assist steering, enough lights to lite up a stadium, front winch and possibly a rear one as well, compression adjusting coilovers front and rear plus all the other little details that RST is known for.

There is going to be a ton of stuff put into this build. I just went over with the owner today as to some calculations that called for greater strengthening of the rear frame section than what we normally do. That by itself is going to add a week because we'll need to lift the entire body from the frame to complete what we need to.

This is going to be a fun project for me. Plus I love working with this owner.
If you take the truck body off the frame (bed and cab) that would make it easy I would think to get to the frame to do the whole build much easier for the SAS part of it!
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Unread 11-16-2016, 06:31 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by chayos00 View Post
If you take the truck body off the frame (bed and cab) that would make it easy I would think to get to the frame to do the whole build much easier for the SAS part of it!
It would and it wouldn't. You still need the body to figure out limits and such. Plus, we won't be removing the body. Just lifting it off the frame. Like we did with my truck when we three linked the rear.





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Unread 11-16-2016, 06:48 PM   #29
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Gosh this is really teasing me, lol. What do you guys use for the rod ends on the links?
Seems like the body needs to be on to figure out the geometry and getting everything centered up.
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Unread 11-16-2016, 08:24 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darklight View Post
Gosh this is really teasing me, lol. What do you guys use for the rod ends on the links?
Seems like the body needs to be on to figure out the geometry and getting everything centered up.

The body does need to be on to figure geometry and such. We just lift it off the frame so that we can weld at the top of the frame where most people miss.

We use Ballistic joints and Eduro joints.

This is one of the ballistic joints that we use.



This is one of the enduro joints that we use.

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Unread 11-16-2016, 08:30 PM   #31
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Ill Have to ship you my truck lol. But seriously,
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Unread 11-16-2016, 09:36 PM   #32
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Ill Have to ship you my truck lol. But seriously,
Yours won't be the first to be shipped here. Lol.
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Unread 11-22-2016, 12:10 PM   #33
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I have been chewing up heims yearly, not sure if the CO winters have anything to do with it, but do you like these joints better for durability?

Quote:
Originally Posted by AWSUMDC View Post
The body does need to be on to figure geometry and such. We just lift it off the frame so that we can weld at the top of the frame where most people miss.

We use Ballistic joints and Eduro joints.

This is one of the ballistic joints that we use.



This is one of the enduro joints that we use.

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Unread 11-22-2016, 02:14 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Wishbone View Post
I have been chewing up heims yearly, not sure if the CO winters have anything to do with it, but do you like these joints better for durability?

I do like them much better and they can be rebuilt pretty simply.
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Unread 11-22-2016, 03:58 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by AWSUMDC View Post
I do like them much better and they can be rebuilt pretty simply.
Good to know, I will look into them when I replace all my heims, again, this spring.
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Unread 11-23-2016, 12:17 PM   #36
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They seem pretty similar to a JJ set up. Have you guys used them?
Anyway it seems like a lot goes into these sac's. My hats off to you and your crew for pulling these off! If I ever get a green light from my princess i'll be calling you up I always tell her it's cheaper than buying another rig, lol.
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Unread 11-23-2016, 02:38 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darklight View Post
They seem pretty similar to a JJ set up. Have you guys used them?
Anyway it seems like a lot goes into these sac's. My hats off to you and your crew for pulling these off! If I ever get a green light from my princess i'll be calling you up I always tell her it's cheaper than buying another rig, lol.
They are similar to the Johny joints. I've used Johny joints before but wont use them again. Have to replace them too often.

Oh, I talked to your wife..... She said it was fine to drop the truck off here and let us do some work.....
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Unread 11-23-2016, 04:08 PM   #38
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That's hilarious but I wish it were true. Haha
I wonder what size the JJ's are on the Metaltech rear links hummm?

Bobby
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Unread 11-23-2016, 05:44 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darklight View Post
That's hilarious but I wish it were true. Haha
I wonder what size the JJ's are on the Metaltech rear links hummm?

Bobby


I know I have to replace my lower Johnny Joints in my metal techs. So when you find out let me know.


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Unread 11-23-2016, 06:55 PM   #40
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Ballistic fab has the joints to replace those on the metal tech stuff.
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