|01-10-2017, 09:49 PM||#1|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
"Weak" ground in Driver's door light
Got an electrical bug, going to track it down and fix it (hopefully) this week/end but wanted to start a thread so I can post how I solved it later. This may be obvious for anyone who has tracked down a short (my primary suspect I think) or this thread may so "noob" its unnecessary. If so, I won't be offended if you tell me.
1 - Driver's door light is out.
2 - Dome circuit does not recognize the open door (lights will not turn on when door is opened and sometimes go off when it is opened if they were already on [after unlocking])
3 - "Auto" headlights do not shut off automatically after locking car twice via key fob or on timer as usual
•*To me, with very limited knowledge of the dome circuit, this sounds like when the door is opened and the switch contacts ground, the door circuit is tied into the existing dome circuit. If there is an open circuit, I imagine it could have these effects on the dome lights and headlights.
1 - Checked all other door lights. They work
2 - Pulled door light bulb and tested it with another. It didn't work
3 - Checked door close switch. I believe it is fine (checked connections visually and tested circuit, went well) but I am going to swap it with another to check again when I get started later in the week.
4 - Pulled bulb housing and checked connectors:
• Got a solid positive when testing with random other ground.
• Got a little "bump" as I would call it on my circuit tester rather than the full/"infinite" reading I get from a good connection.
SO, I think I have a short in the ground wire somewhere on the way to the harness or the door switch. Does that make sense? I have recently done some work on the door ( installed CB in the cubby and routed wiring through the exiting firewalls, swapped out door lock actuator) so I think it could have just gotten pulled or contacted pliers or something, who knows.
My next step is to circuit test at the nearest connection, if I can find it (probably behind the fuse box?) and figure it out from there. I think this is one of those times a wiring diagram would be very useful. I'll check in the stickies and post what I find. I understand this is a pretty generic problem as well so I'll do some more circuitry research around the web. If y'all have any hints, shoot them my way.
Thanks guys. I'll update with what I find when I go to work on it.
David...2004 4Runner Limited
Bilstein 5100's & Moog 4R V8 Coils/Daystar Rear 1.5, LR UCAs, Rola extended rack, Cobra CB, and a few camping and electrical mods here and there
|03-26-2017, 07:04 PM||#2|
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Bel Air, MD
Have you resolved the problem yet? I had this issue too and a simple replacement of the door switch was all it took for me.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
2007 4Runner Sport Edition V6 4X4
Performance: Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers | TRD CAI | 4.56 ARB Front / True Trac Rear
Off Road: Fr: Radlfo 2.5" Ext. Travel (OW Spec w/600lb. spring) / Rr: MetalTech Long Travel | LR UCA | Toytec 1" Body Lift | Goodyear Duratrac 285/70R17 | Rear Diff Breather Mod
Stereo: 3.5" Tweeter Mod | Kenwood DNX9980HD
Exterior: Quad Bi-Xenon Retrofit
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