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Unread 07-23-2009, 09:25 PM   #21
expat
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Cool. You'll find the ride height will settle a little over a week or so. Looks good. Now need sliders and bigger tires.
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Unread 07-23-2009, 09:54 PM   #22
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If only i was a member of this site a couple months earlier and seen this post... I would have installed my OME lift myself if i had realized how simple it is even without a spring compressor. Atleast i only paid $100 for the complete install including alignment. (i'm friends with the manager of a shop) but it would have been nice just to do it myself so that i would have gained some knowledge about the install. Actually that write up was good enough for me. Great job man!
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Unread 07-24-2009, 07:07 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by expat View Post
Cool. You'll find the ride height will settle a little over a week or so. Looks good. Now need sliders and bigger tires.
Absolutely - I'm driving down to Colorado Springs today to pick up the sliders from Armorology, and I just put in an order for some 255/75R17 Goodyear MTR Kevlars.
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Unread 07-24-2009, 09:50 AM   #24
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Absolutely - I'm driving down to Colorado Springs today to pick up the sliders from Armorology, and I just put in an order for some 255/75R17 Goodyear MTR Kevlars.
Nice choice on tires.

I think this will be my next tire and size. Please post a review after you've logged some miles.

TIA
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Unread 07-31-2009, 10:30 PM   #25
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Going to post here as this is the relevant thread. Hopefully I can get the answer I'm looking for.

I'm about to install my OME lift. I will follow the advice in this thread. I have a question though about how the top of the front strut is assembled.

When I remove the factory coil and strut I am assuming that the "isolator" bit will stay in the upper control arm. Is this correct? I have seen the OME strut assembled before but mine came un-assembled. So, do I just remove the old strut coil and then put the new coil base on the OME strut, put the coil on then the black collar sleeve at the top and slide the whole thing up into place?

Thanks in advance

P.S. Hope I'm not
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Unread 08-03-2009, 10:14 AM   #26
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Yes, you understand correctly, about the part sequence.

The rubber isolator at the top of the spring will be loose, when you remove the strut & spring. It may be stuck in place, but it is not glued in. If it is not stuck, just place it on top of the new OME spring, as you push the assembly back up into position.

Also, don't forget the normal shock bushings and washers, at the top of the strut, before you push everything back into position.
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Unread 08-03-2009, 10:42 AM   #27
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I edited (added notes) to the first post, to clarify the text and instructions.
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Unread 08-04-2009, 04:55 PM   #28
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Thanks for the info and updating the post!

It all makes sense now. I will be installing the kit once the paint has finished drying on the struts and shocks. My truck is grey and I don't really want yellow suspension! I'll post a pic or two when it's done.
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Unread 05-03-2010, 12:23 PM   #29
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DRJohn:

How do you like the ride with the new OME Nitrocharger shocks? Is it quite stiff in the front with your setup? I noticed you don't have a bull bar or any additional weight in the front yet.


Quote:
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After:


I think this gave me more than 2.5-inches of lift. Maybe the old springs and shocks were worn out, but it feels like a good 3-4 inches higher. I should have made some measurements to be sure.

The new suspension is OME 886 coils in front and 896 in back, and the new Nitrocharger sport shocks that OME just introduced.
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Unread 05-03-2010, 01:15 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Romper View Post
DRJohn:

How do you like the ride with the new OME Nitrocharger shocks? Is it quite stiff in the front with your setup? I noticed you don't have a bull bar or any additional weight in the front yet.
Shortly after this photo I added an ARB front bumper, CBI rear bumper, and RTT, so that smoothed out the ride quite a bit. It still rides very firm though, which I like.
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Unread 08-27-2010, 07:34 PM   #31
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Great post and thanks for the photos it always makes it so much easier for me to decied to start the job and get her done
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Unread 08-30-2010, 04:45 PM   #32
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Something to consider, when installing the OME springs.

I have the OME suspension, and the typical "Lean to the Left" issue, due to fuel tank/battery/driver weight, all being on one side.

I tried adding (2) 5mm trim packers to the front left strut. This helped a little, did not solve the problem, and raised the entire front end over 1/2"

I then removed the trim packers and added a spacer lift puck, from Daystar, to the left rear spring. It worked perfectly. Now the rear is level, side to side, and the front is within 1/4", side to side. Close enough.

The Daystar spacer is designed for factory springs. It did not want to fit down on the heavy wire of the OME spring. The weight of the 4Runner convinced it to fit.

Part # M03531 from Daystar.
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Last edited by Photog; 10-04-2010 at 10:11 AM. Reason: spelling
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Unread 09-23-2010, 06:23 PM   #33
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I've searched on Daystar's webpage for this part number (# M03531 ) with no luck... Can you point me in the right direction?
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Unread 10-04-2010, 10:18 AM   #34
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I didn't see it on their website either. I think I got the part number from a Daystar dealer. That is why I posted the actual part number.

Then I contacted Daystar directly. sales@daystarweb.com

I probably should have mentioned that.
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Unread 10-17-2010, 09:48 PM   #35
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Will be attempting my OME/5100 install with this method on Wednesday.

Thanks for the write up, will report back when she's finished.
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Unread 10-21-2010, 05:58 PM   #36
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I got the lift in and it looks great. Great write up. I will add two things...

When I put the new shock assy in the fronts, I couldn't get the lower shock bushing up to where the mount is. There is, however, a lip that you can get the shock to hang on to. Then hook a rachet strap around it and the other end to a frame point, give it a few rachets to pull it up to where it needs to be and slide the bolt through.

I still used a spring compressor for the rear (might as well, they're cheap). I only had to compress them an inch or so (not a lot of tension). It really helped me get them in and seated properly.
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Unread 10-29-2010, 12:03 PM   #37
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Glad to hear it went well. Some of the shocks are a little longer than others. The Billies might be a bit longer than the OME's, creating a need to either push the LCA down further, or lever the shock up a little.

Thanks.
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Last edited by Photog; 10-29-2010 at 12:06 PM.
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Unread 06-22-2011, 07:04 AM   #38
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Did a re-install with my 5100's yesterday, went great! Do need to get the UCA up a little higher with the support under the lugs to avoid having to remove the sway bar. Didn't quite have the first side up quite high enough and struggled a bit getting the assemble back up in there. Other side made sure it was raised a little higher and it took all of about 30 mins to do. Total time including water breaks etc was about an hour and half! Not too bad. Thanks for the thread!
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Unread 04-16-2012, 06:46 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRJohn View Post
One thing to watch out for though, I tore the ball joint housing on the right side by getting a little too rough with the jack handle while I was pushing down to fit the springs in. I think it was because I got lazy and didn't prop the wheel up with a 2x4 (I did on the left side). So I had to twist the lever around the wheel before stepping on it. But it's a $35 fix, so no biggie.
Sorry to revive an old (but good) thread here, but I feel this question might be relevant and also might potentially help someone in the future. (Also, the knowledge over here on the 120 site is impeccable, so I obviously trust your opinions.

FYI I posted something similar on the T4R.org site as well.

So I get done lifting, using a slight variation of this thread's method, and am all excited... Then I see this:







That's my drivers side lower ball joint. Is it just ''spitting'' a little bit due to the new angles? All other joints are great. The boot is definately 100% not torn (I was able to confirm this when the angle was still sharp). The seapage came from/is coming from the very bottom of the boot. Did the seal break loose and I'm now screwed? Or have others seen this as well, only to have it stop leaking on its own? I've wiped a few of the drops of clean grease twice now.

If this is an issue, I don't have a press to change the LBJ. And, if its an issue, can I put a ''new'' boot on there, even though this one is not ''torn''? I see that you mentioned a $35 fix for your torn boot, thus assuming you were able to just throw a new boot on? I'm not sure how to do this however.

This is taking away all the excitement I had gotten from lifting my ride.... Da**it.

And just a couple of pictures for you to enjoy of my newly lifted ride! It's subtle, but at least I can still fit in the garage!







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Unread 04-16-2012, 08:33 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stanleybb50 View Post
I see that you mentioned a $35 fix for your torn boot, thus assuming you were able to just throw a new boot on? I'm not sure how to do this however.
Yes there is a fix and it's not hard to do:

Parts diagram:


The kit:


Before:


And after:


I also replaced the castle nut because it was very rusty.
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