Valve cover gasket replacement.

[michaelreed]

And so it begins. Would anybody like me to do a detailed write up of the process? I haven't seen any good ones for the 4th gen so I thought id ask before I get started.







I'm going to update this as I go to make it easier on me.

Parts needed:

L&R valve cover gasket 11213-AD010 & 11214-AD010
Toyota fipg 00295-00103

I also chose to do my spark plugs, pcv valve, clean the throttle body and clean the maf sensor.

Pcv valve 12204-31030
Denso iridium plugs ikh20-5344
Throttle body cleaner
Mass air flow sensor cleaner

Tools needed:

Ratchet
10mm socket
12mm socket
Philips screwdriver
8mm hex socket
Torque wrench
Extentions

First thing to do is remove engine cover. There are two 10mm nuts on top.



Next disconnect the negative battery cable from the terminal.



Next we have to remove the air intake duct. First, detach the ground wire from the hose. The tab just wiggles out of a rubber lip on the hose.



With a Philips or 10mm socket, loosen the hose clamps on the air intake duct. It takes a little finesse to get the duct off the air filter housing and fresh air inlet (fender side).



Unplug the connector attached to the mass air flow sensor. Unscrew two Philips screws and pull out the maf sensor. As mentioned this is good time to clean the sensor.





Next we need to disconnect the pcv fresh air inlet hose. Squeeze the clamp and pull the hose off. May take some convincing to get the hose off. It's located on the front of the air filter housing to the right of the mag sensor.



Loosen the hose clamp that connects the air filter housing to the throttle body with a 10mm socket/Philips.



Remove the two bolts that secure the air filter housing. There is one on the top right and one on the bottom left.





Disconnect the wiring harness clip from the air filter housing



And unplug this line from the back of it



You can then remove the air filter housing. Just lift up and pull it away from the throttle body.



Next we need to remove the upper intake manifold. There's quite a few hoses and connectors to remove so remember what you pulled off or label it.

Remove this fuel vapor feed hose and the vsv connector next to it. This on the drivers side of the manifold.



This vsv connector is on the opposite side. Remove it.



I couldn't get the coolant lines off the throttle body so I just removed it and set it aside. There are four bolts securing it to the intake manifold.



There are two clips on the back side of the manifold that are a royal pain to get off. There is a tab on each that you have to pull down on to release them. This is what the clips secure to. I couldn't get a photo while they were connected.



Next remove the three manifold brackets. Toyota refers to these as air surge tanks stays fyi.





Lastly, remove the 2 nuts and 4 bolts that secure the manifold in place. This is where you need the 8mm hex. Remove the intake manifold.



You'll want to cover the lower intake manifold so nothing falls in.

[UnionJack]

Originally Posted by michaelreed

Would anybody like me to do a detailed write up of the process?

If you have the time I would appreciate the effort.

[michaelreed]

You now have a clear view of the valve covers. Disconnect and remove your coil packs. Ill assume you know how to do this.

Now we need to remove the wiring harness from the valve covers.
You can CAREFULLY pry them up with a screwdriver or use and awl to release the retaining tabs inside.



Remove the 12 bolts holding the valve cover down and remove the valve cover.





Peel off the old gasket. Use a gasket scraper to remove the rtv from where the heads meet the timing cover.

Moving on to the valve cover. Clean it with brake cleaner and make sure there is no debris on the gasket surface.



Seat the gasket in the groove like so.



Now just put dabs of fipg where the timing chain cover meets the head. Torque the nuts and center bolts to 80in.lbs and the outer bolts to 84in.lbs.

Installation is reverse of removal. Just stay organized and you'll be gtg.

[BlackWorksInc]

It can't hurt, if not for us. For someone else who wants to give it a go.

[michaelreed]

Hey Paul, I have a question for you. So, I found the culprit. Oil in spark plug cause by cracked gasket:





However, I found something that doesn't look so good. Look at the difference in the passenger and drivers side valve covers. Drivers side is covered in black, crusty deposits. Any idea what that could be from?

[michaelreed]

Actually I think I "may" have figured it out. Pcv valve was stuck closed. Luckily I bought one and was going to replace it anyway. Could be wrong but that's my guess. May also be why when I pulled the covers it smelled like gas a little bit.

[sport_truck]

Appreciate the write up.

What symptoms did you feel on the truck that led you to the gaskets?

[michaelreed]

I had oil on the cylinder #6 spark plug. Thought it was a head gasket at first but I wasn't missing coolant or misfiring like the other guys. I pulled my plugs and as you can see on the bottom plug, the oil is at the top of the plug. There was none at the bottom or on the electrode. I suspect it was a combination of the bad pcv valve and old gaskets

[WillRunner05]

Alright, glad you didn't have a blown head gasket like we did!

[michaelreed]

*knocks on wood* me too. I'm at 125k so it could still happen. Hope it stays at a vcg because I have an exhaust leak and a weird sound when goin up a hill I have to fix next hah.

[bulldog]

Thx and congrats, you are now in the tech write up section

http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26171

[michaelreed]

Thanks bulldog. Let me know if you guys have anymore questions.

[Teotwaki]

Thanks for the writeup and all of the pictures too. My truck is at 170K+ so I should check the PCVs on mine.

[michaelreed]

Originally Posted by Teotwaki

Thanks for the writeup and all of the pictures too. My truck is at 170K+ so I should check the PCVs on mine.

Glad to help. Yeah I couldn't believe the valve was stuck (not sure if stuck open or close but I assume closed because of the carbon deposits). Glad I picked one up to replace it anyways. Seems to have smoother and slightly better throttle response after all that. Want to an engine flush, not to sure how long the valve was stuck for but I've read it can do some damage. Not sure of interweb hype or not but better safe than sorry.

[sport_truck]

Holy thread revival.

I forgot to show what I found when I was replacing my valve cover gaskets.
Any Ideas..

10W30 Mobil Mineral Every 5,000km a long with an OEM Everything.

[sport_truck]

Nobody?

[michaelreed]

I run 5w30 mobil1 synthetic. Never heard of the oil youre using but the manual says to use 5w30. Any reason you're using 10w30?

[sport_truck]

Originally Posted by michaelreed

I run 5w30 mobil1 synthetic. Never heard of the oil youre using but the manual says to use 5w30. Any reason you're using 10w30?

Actually its Mobil Super 10W30.
http://www.mobil.us/USA-English-LCW/...per-10w30.aspx

5W30 can be a bit hard to find where i'm from, because of our crazy weather (hot as hell).

I really haven't give it much thought since its the type of oil almost everybody runs overhere.

Local Yotatechs say to use 10W30, I can't really argue with that if a qualified tech tells me.

A friend of mine with a supercharged taco had the same questions on why was it so hard to find 5W30, he made a huge research, asked around on the taco forums and what not. They said it makes sense because of the temparatures we get its ok to use it.

[java230]

Looks like your getting some varnish from running Dino. May have to due some with higher Temps.

[sport_truck]

Originally Posted by java230

Looks like your getting some varnish from running Dino. May have to due some with higher Temps.

Running Dino? sorry I don't know what it means. (nevermind now I know)

I think i'm gonna go with a engine flush unless you guys suggest something else.