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Unread 08-31-2016, 09:05 PM   #1
Jeffy
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Default 2014+ Facelift (headlight swap)

I thought I'd throw together a definitive parts list for swapping the 2014+ projector headlights onto the previous year 5th gens. There isn't much info about this out there so hopefully this helps someone.

Note: I plan on adding a steel bumper in the near future, so I didn't bother with swapping out the bumper cover. This leaves a substantial gap between the new lights and the old bumper. I'm not 100% sure what the new bumper cover would entail, but this at least gets you most of the way done. I think it's just a straight swap, but you may need to swap the fender trim as well. Don't rely on my information for that part. Everything else here I have done successfully.

Part numbers:
8117035571 Headlamp assembly, driver's side
8113035541 Headlamp assembly, passenger side
5310135080C0 Grille, SR5 version. TRD version doesn't have the Toyota logo in it. Also, this is a color coded part! The part number I listed is painted black.
8113524160 (2 needed) Dust cap for low beams
9007560028 (2 needed) New turn signal socket (modification necessary, see below)
7444NA bulb (2 needed) New turn signal/ DRL bulb

Everything else is pretty much a straight swap. High beams are still 9005, Low beams are still H11, front sidemarkers are still 168. I did swap the sidemarker to this LED bulb and I highly recommend you do the same. Not only is the LED much brighter than stock, the socket is in a place where you have to remove the whole headlight assembly to swap the bulb, so putting an LED in there should mean you'll never have to change it.

NOTES:
1) To modify the new turn signal socket, you simply have to cut off one of the "legs" that is preventing it from going into the assembly, and then trim about half a millimeter off the largest leg to get it in. It's very easy to see what I mean when you have it in your hands. It fits very snugly and I'm not worried about it coming out, even with it missing a leg. (The reason for this is the socket I used is not for a 4Runner. The 2014+ 4Runners use a 3-prong socket, and the previous models use a 2-prong socket. Rather than try to mess with re-wiring a perfectly good harness, I chose to just get a 2-prong socket and slightly modify it to fit. I'm very happy I chose this option, it took about 60 seconds per side to modify the socket. Alternatively, you can cut another slot in the headlight assembly itself to let the leg fit in. However I chose to cut a $5 socket vs. a $300 assembly)

2) The new headlight assembly has an "extension cord" built into it to connect the low beams. It's hard to explain, but basically one end plugs into your low beam bulb behind the dust cap, and snakes through the assembly to connect to the headlight wiring harness. This just makes it possible to connect the low beams without cutting through the dust cap. However, the problem with this is that the early model years have a different harness that doesn't work with this extension unless you want to cut and splice wires. I chose to drill a hole straight through the dust cap, and my Morimoto HID kit already had a rubber grommet to seal up the mess I had just made, and it looks as good as factory. You can do something very similar with the factory wiring and bulb also. Basically, just ignore that little cord completely and cut a small hole for your existing wires.

3) There's not enough slack in the wiring harness to have both the DRLs and the fog lights connected (this is because the DRLs get moved up into the new assembly and the fog lights stay down in the bumper). This wasn't a concern for me because I'm using an LED fog light bulb that had a ballast and longer wiring, so it fit just fine. This could be a concern for you, although it's very easy to splice and extend the wiring to fit. It probably doesn't matter for those of you intending to add an aftermarket bumper.

4) I tried to do this cheaper and bought these Depo headlights on Amazon. Please do NOT buy these, stick with OEM! The light output on those was straight dangerous, I couldn't even tell if my headlights were on until I turned off my fog lights.

5) I was able to do all this without removing the front bumper. I got in a small accident recently and it was already messed up, plus I plan on swapping to a steel bumper soon so I didn't care if I broke it a bit. It ended up no worse off though. There's enough flex in it so you just have to hold it out of the way to reach the lowermost bolt that secures the headlight assembly. Remove all the screws holding the fender liner to the bumper in the wheel wells, then just grab the bumper and tug sideways and forwards, it pops right off. You can see the silver bolt that holds the headlight assembly pretty easily. (Do this at your own risk, it worked for me but it's really not a good idea). I was able to swap the entire headlight assembly in about 20 minutes using this method. If you're replacing the entire bumper anyways, just take that off first and save yourself the trouble.

6) There's two flimsy plastic pieces on the inside of the bumper that I assume are to help with air flow. They were in the way of the new headlights and grille, so I just ripped them out. You can probably cut them to fit, but I didn't feel like wasting my time with that, and I was parked right next to the dumpster.

Here's a before shot (taken from the internet):


And after:




I was able to cut up my old grill as a temporary fix, otherwise there would be a large gap in between the grille and bumper also. It doesn't look good, it's definitely only temporary. It looks fine at first glance though.
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Last edited by Jeffy; 09-10-2017 at 07:53 PM.
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Unread 09-12-2017, 05:15 PM   #2
mustachesnoop
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hello, so if i replace my 2011 stock bumper with a 2014+ stock bumper will there still be this gap or it should be alright?
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Unread 09-13-2017, 09:01 AM   #3
Jeffy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustachesnoop View Post
hello, so if i replace my 2011 stock bumper with a 2014+ stock bumper will there still be this gap or it should be alright?
The gap should be gone but you'll need to replace the grille as well
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