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Unread 11-19-2006, 05:24 PM   #1
Dealmaker
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Default Slee Stainless steel brake lines

I don't know if this is the right section. Seems suspension-related anywhoo...

I went ahead and installed today following Bulldog's write-up. For the most part, relatively easy. Except for the left rear line whcih was overtightened by the factory Gorilla when they built my truck. Grrrrrrr!! I had a feeling I'd be reminded why I don't like to DIY. I ended up rounding the top nut and decided to thrown in the towel on that line. I'll prolly take it to the dealer tomorrow and have them do it.

The fronts were ridiculously easy.

For bleeding, although I bought a hand vaccuum bleeder, I found it much easier to just have someone in the drivers seat pumping the brakes while I loosened/tightened the bleeder nut and held a 1/2" tube into a 16 oz. plastic bottle.

Back to the rounded nut issue...I was thinking of going after it again, this time from a different angle, like after removing the left rear tire and coil spring and approaching it from the side, but a closer look reveals there is still limited space there. Suggestions, anyone??
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Unread 11-19-2006, 06:26 PM   #2
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Which nut was rounded? The one from the fixed line going to the flexible line?

Also on the frame or axle side of the rear brake line?

See if you can loosen the brakect holdong the fixed line to the frame or axle and thus creating more space to ge tinto it. Also if you haven't done it just drop your spare and also raise the frame in the rear and let the axle droop somewhat. That should give you a lot more space to get into it. If a wrench no longer works try a vice grip.
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Unread 11-19-2006, 07:14 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulldog
Which nut was rounded? The one going from the fixed line to the flex line.
The one from the fixed line going to the flexible line? Yes, that one.
Also on the frame or axle side of the rear brake line? Frame side

See if you can loosen the brakect holdong the fixed line to the frame or axle and thus creating more space to ge tinto it. Hmmm...that's a good idea. I'll have to crawl underneath again and see where/how close it is.

Also if you haven't done it just drop your spare and also raise the frame in the rear and let the axle droop somewhat. Did both. In fact, I may have drooped too much as it seemed the left rear line was close to being too tight.
That should give you a lot more space to get into it. Unfortunately its that space boxed in by the frame/left coilspring/gas tank. There doesn't seem to be many options for how to get a different angle of approach on that nut.
If a wrench no longer works try a vice grip. I tried pliers, but had a hard time due to limited access, and I was afriad to get too agressive with it for fear of doing more damage and having to result to using a tow truck to get my truck to the stealer.
OK, I may hold off going to the stealer tomorrow and try again with vice grips. I'm also wondering if I should put some liquid wrench on the visible part of the threads?
Thanks, BD!
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Unread 11-19-2006, 09:10 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dealmaker
OK, I may hold off going to the stealer tomorrow and try again with vice grips. I'm also wondering if I should put some liquid wrench on the visible part of the threads?
Thanks, BD!
When you loosen the bracket you can bend the brake line down to gain more access.

Do not put any oil product on the brake lines as it might get in the system.

A good vice grip will give you a lot more grip than pliers. You can also check for some wrrenches that were designed for stripped bolts, they grip differently from just a normal open ended wrench.

Make sure you are loosening and not tightening the bolt though as everything is upside down, etc. Don't ask me how I know.

Good luck
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Unread 11-20-2006, 04:26 PM   #5
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Hopefully still on topic:

Is there any advantage to changing out the front brake lines to stainless? I've read that stainless will give better brake response because it won't swell at all under pressure. I've never seen any measurements to define better.
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Unread 11-20-2006, 04:52 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teotwaki
Hopefully still on topic:

Is there any advantage to changing out the front brake lines to stainless? I've read that stainless will give better brake response because it won't swell at all under pressure. I've never seen any measurements to define better.
The SS line will make your pedal feel firmer and that is about it to be honest. On the 03s the pedal travel was longer and felt a bit soft compared to later years (I'm reminded of this everytime I drive the GX). The SS lines helped for that.

It is really only needed in the rear to allow for more axle travel with longer shocks.
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Unread 11-20-2006, 05:52 PM   #7
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Are you using a regular wrench or the type of wrench designed for brake parts? I believe its called a flare nut wrench if I remember correctly. If you dont have one I would recommend grabbing one.

Also, if you leave the clips in, it makes loosening the factory lines a lot easier.

One last thing, as I found out working on Joels truck, the Pressure Bleeders wont fit around the monstrous master cylinders toyota puts on the 4th gens. Having someone pump the brake pedal with the ignition on made bleeding the system really easy.
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Unread 11-20-2006, 07:43 PM   #8
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My past two months of going to the gym paid off. The Factory Gorilla ain't no match for me and a pair of vice grips.

I was using a Craftsman 10mm open end wrench. I believe those nut/bolt things are brass, and therefore are soft.

Yes, leaving the clips in would make it easier. My problem originated when the assembly kept moving (I had already removed the clips) whenever I'd try to wrench on it.

I'll post a pic in a few min's....
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Last edited by Dealmaker; 11-20-2006 at 09:34 PM.
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Unread 11-20-2006, 07:51 PM   #9
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Glad you got it off. Now you can go flex out your Runner. Just FYI I was refering to loosening the bolt that has the bracket for both brake lines on the frame. This allows you to move the assembly downwards for easier access if needs be.

Kurt good call on those flare nut wrenches, but I only seem to find them as low as 9mm. IIRC the brake line nuts where 8mm. Nevermind I was thinking about the bleed nipples on the brake calipers.

I just used a vacuum bleeder and let it run for a while on the caliper side. Not as quick a having someone pump the pedal, but gets the job done.
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Unread 11-20-2006, 08:05 PM   #10
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Unread 11-20-2006, 08:44 PM   #11
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I have a size 10 and size 12 flare nut wrench combo. The 10 side of the wrench worked perfectly on the 3rd gen, Joels 4th gen and even my wifes accord.
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Unread 11-20-2006, 09:41 PM   #12
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seems the flare nut wrench would've been a better way to go than my 10mm open end wrench. Note it is "designed for use on soft fittings such as brass...." You may want to update the write-up, BD.

one more to add to my tool kit.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/sk/sk03150.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by vegaskurt
I have a size 10 and size 12 flare nut wrench combo. The 10 side of the wrench worked perfectly on the 3rd gen, Joels 4th gen and even my wifes accord.
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Unread 11-20-2006, 10:00 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vegaskurt
I have a size 10 and size 12 flare nut wrench combo. The 10 side of the wrench worked perfectly on the 3rd gen, Joels 4th gen and even my wifes accord.
Yep you guys are right, I was thinking about the bleeding nipples on the caliper.
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Unread 11-20-2006, 10:06 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulldog
Yep you guys are right, I was thinking about the bleeding nipples on the caliper.

Always thinking about nipples
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Unread 11-20-2006, 10:09 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by expat
Always thinking about nipples
I knew somebody was going to jump on that as soon as I posted.

Anyway they are 8mm IIRC while the brake lines are 10mm.
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Unread 11-20-2006, 10:14 PM   #16
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The nipple also uses the size 10.

Before I had the flare nut wrench I did use an 8mm to loosen it.
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Unread 11-20-2006, 10:16 PM   #17
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guys, I have these on my 80 and they are awesome. makes bleeding the brakes a no-brainer
speedbleeders.com
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Unread 01-07-2007, 08:48 PM   #18
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Well...I noticed some very small puddles on the garage floor under my rear diff... It seems one of the brake lines has sprung a small leak. A close look and some testing revealed that the leak appears to be at the bottom part of the rt. side brake line. The fluid appears to be leaking out where the woven steel braid tucks into the metal ferruling. No other issues with the other three lines, however I did notice on both of the front lines that the sheathing is separating where the rubber "Slee" logo sleeve is, revealing the bare steel braiding. Not sure if that is normal or not, just something I noticed after a closer scrutiny of all of the SS brake lines.

Has anyone else heard of any issues with aftermarket brake lines? I guess I'll have to put in a call to SOR tomorrow AM and see if they'll ship out a new rear line pronto.
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Unread 01-07-2007, 09:34 PM   #19
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I haven't noticed any leaks on my SS lines. I will have a look at mine at some point again.

Let us know how yours turn out. I wonder what could have caused the issue, just a bad line or something else??
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Unread 01-07-2007, 09:44 PM   #20
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Yes...I'll report back. I'll also email Slee a link to my pics posted earlier in this thread for their opinion. At the time of the install, I was wondering if there may be too much lateral tension on the line at the base, just because the lines are so stiff. I didn't have any drama with that line (the leaking one) like I did with the other one mentioned previously in this thread. When I saw the puddle I thought certainly it would be from the line that gave me all the grief.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bulldog View Post
...Let us know how yours turn out. I wonder what could have caused the issue, just a bad line or something else??
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