LED Dash

[A_HuL]

Has anyone done the LED dash mods? I have the Interior LED kit and i would really like to do a COMPLETE LED swap with my dash and everything down to the AUTO on my window switch.

[darkie3495]

On this forum, I believe myself and riceandpho have done it. there are much more on t4r.org: DIY: Interior LED swap (cluster, HVAC, switches, window, *steering wheel)

The only ones that need to be soldered is the gauge cluster, window switch and steering wheel. all else are twist NEO style and wedge style LED that can be purchased pre-made.

[SeanCeltiad]

Originally Posted by darkie3495

On this forum, I believe myself and riceandpho have done it. there are much more on t4r.org: DIY: Interior LED swap (cluster, HVAC, switches, window, *steering wheel)

The only ones that need to be soldered is the gauge cluster, window switch and steering wheel. all else are twist NEO style and wedge style LED that can be purchased pre-made.

Hey darkie3495, do you know which size Neo bulbs I need for a swap for the HVAC/4WD/Rear Window/Defrost/Air circ and Hazard switch from SBLeds ? I've already accessed them before due to left side of LCD being out and measured all of them with standard tape measure only and don't know how to convert their 0.000 #' to standard, most all of them have 3/8" base dia. and 3/8" or 1/2" or 3/4" length's with some having a small color tip(not entire bulb, just tip) and I am wanting to change most all to blue if possible, esp the LCD display so that I can actually read it during the day ditto the HVAC buttons since I drive with headlights on during day, it automatically reduces the brightness, for what reason they did that I'll never know.
Thank you for any help or suggestions you could give me so I don't have to buy all 3 different sizes and figure it out by process of elimination and then return unusable ones.
SeanCeltiad

[riceandpho]

neo4 for lcd screen and neo3 for the rest on the hvac buttons, neo3 on the tailgate window and haz, but on the haz, it gona glow red on the triangle.

[SeanCeltiad]

Thank you riceandpho, Do you know which for the 4wd switch by any chance ? I know the haz will/can only be red, just want it as bright as I can get it.
SeanCeltiad

[the_josh]

Do you guys know how many of each neo3 and neo4 will I need total?

[riceandpho]

5 neo3 for hvac, 2 neo4 for lcd screen, the rest is neo3, on the 4x4 switch is neo3, window is neo3 the rest of the switch is neo3, but might be too long, it will fit, but u wount be able to push the button.

[riceandpho]

use high power on the neo3 instead of the regular ones.

[SeanCeltiad]

Thanks-I'll let you know how it goes and will take pics as I go for anyone else to see how to get to them. Sean

[the_josh]

edit...

[SeanCeltiad]

Originally Posted by riceandpho

neo4 for lcd screen and neo3 for the rest on the hvac buttons, neo3 on the tailgate window and haz, but on the haz, it gona glow red on the triangle.

Thanks riceandpho, am about to order mine now and I was just wondering re having to r&r the led's for the arrows and just the whole HVAC brightness issue, if you or anyone else out there knows how or if it is possible to just track down what gets tripped how and where (when the headlights are switched on during the day) that dims the HVAC led's and every other button/switch that lights up as well and just find a way to override it somehow ? It would sure solve the whole no option but replacing and having to solder the arrow led's for those of us who could stand the orange but just would like everything to be bright during the day-that aspect is the main reason I'm even switching out the led's for brighter led's since stock led's on any vehicle are never as bright as they should be and out here in CA you aren't supposed to drive with just your parking lights on, but the entire speedo display is black 'cept for the PRD321 indicator unless you turn on the headlights and living in rural area it's just good sense to have 'em on even during the day. And of course I'd love to go totally blue with the speedo etc. but is definitely a job that requires a steady hand and being good at soldering.
Just wondering everyone,
SeanCeltiad

[riceandpho]

the led swap on the cluster itself is at full brightness, well to me that is, it looks full brightnes even with no parking lights on, that triggers it i think. but i have the dimmer on full bright. it is brighter than the orange duriing the day.

[SeanCeltiad]

That's just it, I've got the dimmer turned up all the way and of course half of the LCD screen is out and I think the left Fan speed led has been out for awhile, just the arrows light up on that one but it's the defrost and recirculate buttons that are very dim when it's daytime and like I said I use the headlights on during the day which automatically dims them all, if I just put the headlight switch to the first stop they are fine but twist it to full on and they go too dim for my tired old eyes, fine at night. Is why I wish I could find out if there is a way to undo whatever gets tripped that dims them when headlights are on, they prob wired them in so that you can't, just makes no sense to me why they even did that, if anything it would remind you that your lights were still on if they stayed bright. But I'm sure just putting in the HP led's will help. Oh, do you know if it's possible to change the CD units lights to another color, is that another solder job or are they just the twist and lock led's ?
Thanks for the reply anyway

[riceandpho]

I use the hp leds, on the radio leds i wouldnt even bother, i use aftermarket decks for a reason, but if u must change, its another solder job.

[SeanCeltiad]

No I was just wondering, but can you recommend a good after market brand ? There is nothing wrong with the current one, Runner only has 82,000 miles on it is prob why that and couldn't listen to music for too long of a time after my wife left this world for the next, there have been times I wish they had skipped the cassette part and instead used a unit that would have at least a 3 disc capacity, course right now I'm putting Pink Floyd's Delicate Sound of Thunder VHS onto a cassette tape so I shouldn't tempt fate, don't think I've ever even used the cassette deck so I'll see how that goes. When I get the led's I'll post the access pics along with pics of the old led's and which ones I swapped 'em out for in case anyone else needs the info. Thanks for the info anyway R&P- Forums rule !
SeanCeltiad

[riceandpho]

go to t4r.org and see the led swap, someone has done it. look for the darkie guy who created the thread, but its on the last few pages that someone actually did this.

[SeanCeltiad]

Hey there R&P, Was wondering if you know which wire or wires from the white female connector to the male pins on back of hvac panel control the LCD's color ? I did the led swap and everything went fine until it came time to hook it up and everything but the LCD's color only(everything else works just fine) works, but LCD's color only comes on if I hold the connector till it just touches the pins and keep still as if my life depended on it, try to seat the connector all the way in and the color is no more, all the info in black is there, time, mpg, hvac fan speed, temp etc. changes of all hvac selections work, setting time, changing modes, all but the one thing I really did want as well, the lcd in blue. So if you know which color wire controls that, I could prob fix it-just don't want to push my luck with the pin connectors since everything else is fine. I tried to find it via the service manuals that are available here but it seems to cover it all but the LCD wire/s and if you or anyone else knows I would sure appreciate the help, I figure it's one of the female connectors is not seated properly and the male pin is not able to keep a solid fit & the female connectors are a bit tricky to reset and don't want to disturb the working ones, only one that looks like it may be pushed back too far is the white wire third from the right top I think, I wrote the colors down but left 'em in the Runner, too tired right now to get 'em. Thank you and/or anyone else, Sean

[riceandpho]

i would take the hvac out and check all the plugs, all it is a philips screw, just trace back, also what neo4 leds did you use? i know that the hp from superbright didnt work for me, so i had to use the regular one, also i heard to get the hp to wok, got to change the resistor.

[SeanCeltiad]

Originally Posted by riceandpho

i would take the hvac out and check all the plugs, all it is a philips screw, just trace back, also what neo4 leds did you use? i know that the hp from superbright didnt work for me, so i had to use the regular one, also i heard to get the hp to wok, got to change the resistor.

Hey R&P, at first I didn't think the led's were the right ones, got the hp ones for all, the neo4's did work they just didn't take a full 1/4 turn to seat them but enough to keep them set, the neo 3's for the control buttons and the recirc and defrost buttons would only allow me to carefully push them in till they made contact so tight could not turn them but didn't need to, the fit will keep them in place. I think that my taking the connector out and in too much screwed up one or two of the pin connectors, if I just slid the connector in till it touched the pins the display w the time etc would light up, but if I kept sliding it in all the way the display would not light up, every thing else did, so I noticed that if I held it just barely in and moved it around it would light up and I tried to carefully move the wires to figure out which one/s were the display wires and the only one that seemed to react to the movement was the blue w black stripe on the top left on the connector, if I moved it a little and held it that way the display would light up and stay lit but if I moved just a little it would go out, so I'm thinking that one of the pins might be slightly broken or just got offset enough to not make contact, it's as if it works till I slide it all the way in then it's like the male pin is going past the contact point which makes no sense esp since if I move the wire it works even all the way in. I hate to think that I might have to label all wires and open up the connector to see what's going on, is why I asked if anyone can read those wiring diagrams and tell me which one is for the display. I might try moving them gently again but I don't want to push my luck with it, right now I have to have the defrost and heat working, prob have to wait till summer to mess with it or find out if dealership can do it or recommend someone who can and see how much $ to do it for me. Also the haz buttons light is so small that I just left it in and the rear window button used the neo 3's but had to use the one button from the display that still worked and use that one for the 4wd it's a big hole and seems like a neo5 might work but I just took off the cap of display one and it lights up the 4wd enough. Check out my album pics, that's what is working for now. Thank you for the reply, I really do appreciate it and if you know of anyone else who might be able to help with id the wires that would be good to, I should prob ask on yotatech.com as well someone(iamsuperbleeder) said what you did as well, use the 4mm and 5mm.

[SeanCeltiad]

R&P, I used the neo4's for the display, they fit but you can't turn them in as much to "lock" them in, but even so the connector I'm talking about is the wire harness connector that plugs into the back of the hvac control panel, if I just slide that connector in only enough to make contact with the connector pins on back of hvac panel the display lights up w the time, temp, fan speed, mpg etc. But if I slide it on past that point the display light goes out, the time etc. is still there, even if I'm holding that connector just till it touches those pins I have to keep very still or the display goes on and off, the light as well as the readout. So are you talking about those load resistors they tell you might be needed on superbrightllights or do you mean a resistor on the circuit board itself ? Also did you only try the neo4's on your display, the ones at the top ? I used the neo3's like you suggested for the button controls and the defrost and recirc buttons and like I said they will slide in if you push them in gently but they won't turn to lock at all and I found out today while driving that I may need to find a way to keep it in place, hit a bump and it was just enough to make the bulb's base lose contact and my defrost button was the one was out till just now when I pulled the panel and just pushed it back in it didn't come out much, and it's red again. Did the regular led's twist in for you ? And was it as bright as the hp ones ?
Sean