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Unread 10-08-2008, 02:42 PM   #1
mntbikr18
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Default Cant stop smoothly....tire issue?

I put Nitto TGs on a couple months ago and made the mistake of going 6-8k miles without rotating them.....basically due to a XC drive in the middle of it.

Anyway the car wont stop smoothly.....when slowing to a stop it shudders.......

When I bought the car it did a similar thing and the rotors needed to be cut.....had that done and no problems until now.

Car place checked the rotors and said they are just about perfect and suggested that since the tires werent rotated soon enough they are the cause of this problem....they rotated them and said it should correct itself in a few hundred miles.

Its been a few hundred and the problem is still as bad as it was pre rotation.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Evan
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Unread 10-08-2008, 03:27 PM   #2
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Go to a different shop and recheck your rotors. More than likely the shop that put on your wheels and tires used a pneumatic nut driver (or whatever) anyway, air tools and lug nuts don't like to play. Your lugs were probably overtorqued and eventually warped your rotors.

Some shops don't know how to measure for runout on a brake disc. My personal horror story involves my wife's MBZ. I bought rotors for it ($150 ea) and the local brake guy told me they are probably warped from "sitting on a shelf". He recommended that I get the brand new rotors turned. This was a long time ago and I didn't know better. He turned (and warped) all 4 rotors. After all day at the shop the car was undrivable, had to be towed to the dealer to get brakes redone. Total cost = $1450 ($600 for rotors and $850 for dealer to redo). Since then I ensure the shop finishes torquing the lug nuts with a torque wrench.
Get a second opinion. My
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I had that Jeep thing... But I went to my local Toyota dealer, bought a 4Runner and it cleared that crap right up.
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Unread 10-08-2008, 03:32 PM   #3
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I don't think the Nitto TGs would be the issue on braking only. Your brakes are more likely the culprit.

A/T tires are not nearly as sensitive to rotation and balancing as M/T tires.
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Unread 10-08-2008, 04:23 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulldog View Post
I don't think the Nitto TGs would be the issue on braking only. Your brakes are more likely the culprit.

A/T tires are not nearly as sensitive to rotation and balancing as M/T tires.
Just remembered, I have M/T tires on my truck that I rotated once in 27,000 miles and I don't have any issues with braking vibes.
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'05 4R SR5 V8, SAW 2.5 front, OW/Bilstein 5100 rear, SW Sliders, 4Crawler 1.5" BL, extended rear swaybar links, front swaybar delete, AR wheels, GY Duratracs 33", Yaesu FT-8100r, Rola roof rack, Aux backup lights, Nuvi 255W, Speedohealer.
I had that Jeep thing... But I went to my local Toyota dealer, bought a 4Runner and it cleared that crap right up.
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Unread 10-08-2008, 05:18 PM   #5
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take your truck to a reputable shop. tires dont do that. i have nittos on my 80 and i realy dont remember when i rotated last. shame on me i should now better but here nor there. you paid alot of money for your ride so dont let brake team or brake hut try and diagnos your truck. get the rotors resurfaced or replaced with good factory parts and you should be all good
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Unread 10-08-2008, 09:23 PM   #6
mntbikr18
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Ok....also at highway speed the steering wheel shudders under braking.......but they showed me the paper with the rotor numbers on it and what do I know.

On to the next shop I guess.

Anything specific I should ask for/look for?
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Unread 10-08-2008, 09:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mntbikr18 View Post
.......but they showed me the paper with the rotor numbers on it and what do I know.

Anything specific I should ask for/look for?
You can use that paper to wipe your ass, that's all it's good for.

Seriously, second opinion, and ask to see factory runout specs and what they measured the actual runout to be.
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'05 4R SR5 V8, SAW 2.5 front, OW/Bilstein 5100 rear, SW Sliders, 4Crawler 1.5" BL, extended rear swaybar links, front swaybar delete, AR wheels, GY Duratracs 33", Yaesu FT-8100r, Rola roof rack, Aux backup lights, Nuvi 255W, Speedohealer.
I had that Jeep thing... But I went to my local Toyota dealer, bought a 4Runner and it cleared that crap right up.
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Unread 10-08-2008, 09:56 PM   #8
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Ok thanks

Last Q

Is there any harm in driving it for a couple months as is?

I dont really feel like buying new rotors and **** atm.
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Unread 10-08-2008, 10:13 PM   #9
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Probably not, keep an eye on your pads for premature wear. Be aware, stopping distances may increase. Retorque your lugs to specs with a torque wrench.
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Chris KK6VZK My Truck Build
'05 4R SR5 V8, SAW 2.5 front, OW/Bilstein 5100 rear, SW Sliders, 4Crawler 1.5" BL, extended rear swaybar links, front swaybar delete, AR wheels, GY Duratracs 33", Yaesu FT-8100r, Rola roof rack, Aux backup lights, Nuvi 255W, Speedohealer.
I had that Jeep thing... But I went to my local Toyota dealer, bought a 4Runner and it cleared that crap right up.
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Unread 10-08-2008, 11:08 PM   #10
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there are a few things that can cause your symptoms. loose wheel bearings bad uppper or lower ball joints and tierod ends and from the looks of your ride it looks like a well taken care of ride so that would probably rule them out. and it only takes a few thousanths of an inch to cause the shake and even worse when the rotors are hot. give us the run out readings and what they used for the specs and i can run them against my specs to see if they even used the correct ones..
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Unread 10-09-2008, 06:54 AM   #11
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Gah...I appriciate it but it appears they didnt put the numbers in my papers....only showed me there. Will call and see if they have them.



If it matters at all this basically started out of no where. Was driving XC and about 2500 miles into the trip this started.....no one had put my wheels on with an air gun at that point.....at least not all of them, maybe the front drivers side when I had a CV joint replaced.
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Unread 03-06-2009, 03:32 PM   #12
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Well, its been how many months and Im still having this problem.

Things that have been checked/done

Rotors (although I evidently need to have this done again)
Brakes bled/checked by good mechanic (also checked to make sure no pistons were sticking and whatnot)
Tires rotated yet again


The issue has not gotten any worse in maybe 10,000 miles, which leads me to believe it isnt the rotors as they would most likely have broken down more?


One thing that occured to me is maybe I kicked off a balance weight or two...would this fit?


Anyway I am more determined than ever to resolve this nuisance so Im making a list of everything I need to have checked.

-Rotots again
-Wheel balance
-Wheel bearings
-Ball joints
-Tie rods


Anything else?


Thanks,
Evan
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Unread 03-06-2009, 04:13 PM   #13
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I should probably also point out that there is a minor shudder in the floor of the car that I notice when riding passenger.

Also if I take my hand off the wheel and hit the brakes at highway speed the wheel shakes some.

-Evan
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Unread 03-06-2009, 04:28 PM   #14
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have you had the rotors cut with an on car brake lathe. you could have wheelhub runout problems. if you use the on car lathe it will cut the rotor to the hub not to the machine. just a thought. if you were here i could help more.
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Unread 03-06-2009, 04:44 PM   #15
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I had them cut shortly after getting the car because they DID have some issues, but Im not sure what type of machine they used.

It was then smooth sailing for a bit and then back to rough.
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