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Unread 08-18-2007, 09:57 PM   #1
bulldog's Avatar
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Walnut Creek, CA
Posts: 12,314
Default Timbren bumpstop install

Installed front and rear timbren bumpstops onthe 4Runner today. The part #s are :
Front - TOFTAC4A

They are quite a bit larger than the stock ones and I don't know if they will actually effect flex or not. Will probably see next weekend and a little tomorrow maybe.



Installation was a bit more challenging than I thought. You will need:
- 12mm racthed wrench (or normal if you like pain)
- 19mm socket
- 17mm socket
- big adjustable plumbing wrench
- I had to use some funny special tools for the front, see findings below.

Rear install:
- Take off rear tires (use jackstands, etc, etc)
- Remove old bumpstops (2 12mm bolts on each side)
- Screw rubber portion of timbren rear bumpstop to steel bracket using supplied bolt and 19mm socket till you can easily turn it by hand.
- DO above as it will be challenging to do it once steel backet is fitted to frame.
- FIt new bumpstop to frame (either reuse old bolts or new supplied ones)
- Don't torque the bolts holding the bracket to the frame.
- Now torque down the center 19mm bolt holding the rubber to the steel bracket
- Position bumpsop bracket by sliding it forward or backwards to make sure it will hit the axle center when compressing. There is a lot of room for adjustment so make sure to get it more or less aligned
- Torque down 12mm bolts with racthed wrench
- Put wheels back, yada, yada

- Take of wheels and let both sides droop (jackstands, yada yada)
- Remove old bumpstop using big ass adjustable plumbing wrench (my driver side was a pain as I had to turn it with the wrench all the way, passnger side I could turn by hand after initial wrench work).
- Put Timbren bumpstop in. I had a hell of a time as the lowe r a-am was pretty close to the TImbren when unbolted. I had to use a 17mm 1/2" socket with a 3/8 to 1/2 converter and a small 3/8" ratchet to get it in. A normal extension was too long and I could't fit the 1/2" racthet. Maybe a long 17mm socket will work as well, but there is very little space.
- Torque down new bumpstop on center bolt.
- Put wheels back, yada yada.
- Reaon to raise both sides is to make sure they droop completely instead of the swaybar preventing full droop.

Drive off and enjoy.

Will report back on my findigns, but my rear suspension is sagging a bit with all the weight I have on it now.

BTW: Thx Jared for pointing this option out.

2019 Low Rider
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Unread 08-19-2007, 08:06 PM   #2
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Walnut Creek, CA
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Quick follow up after some testing at Hollister.

The bumpstops doesn't seem to limit flex compared to the stock bumpstops.

I will really need to get new rear coils as I can feel the bumpstops hitting the rear axle (I only have 1" or so gap between bumpstop and alxe now). SO I can feel the rear getting kicked upa bit over small bumps offroad, when I hit it at speed. The front is difficult to asses at the moment, at least till the rear gets resolved.

I also had to tie the ABS wires on the axle away from the bumpstops with cable ties, as it looked like the cable got pinced a little on the driver side under full compression.

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