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Unread 12-03-2011, 03:01 PM   #1
Bluto
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Default Parking Brake & Rear Brake Help - Special Tools?

I was changing my rear brake pads. I have 2 issues:

Taking off the rear disks, I bent a parking brake shoe hold-down pin. The other pin popped off. The pins & springs pull the shoes away from the hub. Now the stretched pin's spring cup hits the hub. Are there any special tools for the parking brake, or these pins? The pin/spring/cup are impossible to put together. I got the popped pin back on after 1 hour. Only to have the bent pin hitting the hub. I'd upload the parking brake PDF from the service manual, but it is on my work computer.




Issue 2, of the 4 rear brake pads, 1 was gone, metal on metal grind. The other 3 looked fine (50% at 75k miles). A cylinder slide pin on the bad side has burnt grease. The other pins had clean grease. Do I have a problem, or is the grease dark from the heat caused by the bad pad?

I'll put up pictures later. Thanks!
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Unread 12-03-2011, 05:07 PM   #2
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Look at the link in the sticky thread of the 4Runner section, for the service manuals.

I did not need special tools for the rear brake/parking brake setup. Only thing was to undo the tension a little through the service holes in the drum section to get the rotor/drum off.
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Unread 12-05-2011, 10:40 AM   #3
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The service manual was a big help.

I did not release enough parking brake tension, and bent a pin backing the rotor off the hub. I though I was working against the rust, but it actually was the parking brake.

After getting the rotor off I could not figure out how to remove the spring pins to fix or replace them. The service manual had the correct procedure, no tools needed. Just lots of patience and small fingers. I'm going to to order new parts today (pins and caps).
Attached Images
File Type: jpg BentPin.JPG (99.0 KB, 156 views)
File Type: jpg Pads.JPG (113.1 KB, 136 views)
File Type: jpg ParkingBrake.JPG (86.8 KB, 170 views)
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Unread 12-05-2011, 10:48 AM   #4
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When I had mine apart I found that getting the little slotted cap back over the coil spring was a huge pain in the rear, parking brakes that is. I made my own tool which is a small version of the one sold for full sized drum brakes.
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Unread 12-08-2011, 09:34 AM   #5
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I was using an door trim removal tool to load the pin/spring/cup while I put the parking brake shoe back in. It was a tight fit and still took some time.

What full-sized tool is used to do this? A drum brake tool set looks like a medieval dentist kit.
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Unread 12-16-2011, 08:42 AM   #6
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Well everything is back together. I removed the parking brake shoes, easy to do using a good pair of needle nose pliers on the springs. I put the hold-down pin/spring/cup together with the shoe out. Then I used a braided wire for hanging a picture frame to load the assembled spring while putting the brake shoe back on. Once the hold down spring was set on the shoe, I simply pulled out the braided wire.
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Unread 01-04-2014, 01:59 PM   #7
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Default Horribly engineered by someone who's never done maintenance

I really wish I had read this thread before I started in on this. I had several problems, the first was that I also popped off the hold down spring when removing the rotor and ended up in this predicament - I never had any intention of fooling with the parking brake. I found on another forum the fact that the shoe it self has a slot rather than a hole, meaning that you can put together the spring, pin and caps withOUT the shoe installed. I like the idea of using picture frame wire (presumably around the pin below the base of the lower cap) to compress the spring and guide it into the shoe slot. Unfortunately I was paying by the hour at a local Army base auto center and did not have the benefit of having read this forum post. FYI, there's nothing about the difficulty of this or a procedure in the service manual, so I wasn't happy about that. Also, I lost count a long time ago of the number of drum brakes I have serviced, but it is in the hundreds, and I have NEVER encountered something like this before ever.

Also, on another forum someone noted that the rotor itself has two threaded holes in it. I cant remember what size and threads they were, but if you get yourself two bolts that fit those you can apparently walk the rotor off nice and slow and easy like so that even if the parking brake shoes are making things unpleasant you aren't going to knock the hold down spring loose like you will knocking off the old rotor with a sledge hammer (which I'm sure many people have done including myself). Note that some after-market shoes apparently have holes instead of slots even for these make/model of vehicle, so be aware of that if you are actually replacing the shoes.

I have no idea how you guys were able to get those things installed with the shoe already in there, I gave up because I couldn't do it with my huge hands and no one helping me, and didn't know about the other method. The guys at the shop kept telling me you have to remove the axle - you do NOT need to do this and it won't help: step one of removing the axle is removing the parking break, which is obvious when you look at the diagram the blowup diagram of the axle removal procedures (have a look if you are curious why). I ran out of time at the shop and ended up limping my vehicle over to a Firestone because the guy there says he does them all the time. I was so frustrated by then that I needed to be done with this job. I would love to have a few minutes with the engineer at Toyota that thought it was ok to design a parking brake assembly like that - he's obviously never worked on a vehicle in his life. I can think of a hundred ways of designing it that have no disadvantages or cost increase. Toyota lost more than a few points in my book over this fiasco.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluto View Post
Well everything is back together. I removed the parking brake shoes, easy to do using a good pair of needle nose pliers on the springs. I put the hold-down pin/spring/cup together with the shoe out. Then I used a braided wire for hanging a picture frame to load the assembled spring while putting the brake shoe back on. Once the hold down spring was set on the shoe, I simply pulled out the braided wire.
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Unread 01-04-2014, 02:04 PM   #8
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There's a really good post by an aircraft engineer who specializes in "inaccessible" operations with difficult access on another forum (who noted that this was extremely difficult). I just signed up here today because of this thread - is it ok to post a link to another forum thread as an FYI or is that against the rules? Don't want to make everyone mad 10 minutes after I registered!
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Unread 01-04-2014, 02:22 PM   #9
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One other follow up question - if anyone has found a specialized tool to do this please let me know where I can find it. In addition, if anyone knows where I can get a brake spoon that will fit through that tiny hole to back off the parking brake I would like to get one. I have 3 and none of them worked through that hole.

Last edited by rpm5099; 01-04-2014 at 02:25 PM. Reason: typo
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Unread 01-05-2014, 08:52 AM   #10
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Use a small flat tip screwdriver instead of a brake spoon.
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Unread 03-03-2014, 04:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpm5099 View Post
I really wish I had read this thread before I started in on this. I had several problems, the first was that I also popped off the hold down spring when removing the rotor and ended up in this predicament - I never had any intention of fooling with the parking brake. I found on another forum the fact that the shoe it self has a slot rather than a hole, meaning that you can put together the spring, pin and caps withOUT the shoe installed. I like the idea of using picture frame wire (presumably around the pin below the base of the lower cap) to compress the spring and guide it into the shoe slot. Unfortunately I was paying by the hour at a local Army base auto center and did not have the benefit of having read this forum post. FYI, there's nothing about the difficulty of this or a procedure in the service manual, so I wasn't happy about that. Also, I lost count a long time ago of the number of drum brakes I have serviced, but it is in the hundreds, and I have NEVER encountered something like this before ever.

Also, on another forum someone noted that the rotor itself has two threaded holes in it. I cant remember what size and threads they were, but if you get yourself two bolts that fit those you can apparently walk the rotor off nice and slow and easy like so that even if the parking brake shoes are making things unpleasant you aren't going to knock the hold down spring loose like you will knocking off the old rotor with a sledge hammer (which I'm sure many people have done including myself). Note that some after-market shoes apparently have holes instead of slots even for these make/model of vehicle, so be aware of that if you are actually replacing the shoes.

I have no idea how you guys were able to get those things installed with the shoe already in there, I gave up because I couldn't do it with my huge hands and no one helping me, and didn't know about the other method. The guys at the shop kept telling me you have to remove the axle - you do NOT need to do this and it won't help: step one of removing the axle is removing the parking break, which is obvious when you look at the diagram the blowup diagram of the axle removal procedures (have a look if you are curious why). I ran out of time at the shop and ended up limping my vehicle over to a Firestone because the guy there says he does them all the time. I was so frustrated by then that I needed to be done with this job. I would love to have a few minutes with the engineer at Toyota that thought it was ok to design a parking brake assembly like that - he's obviously never worked on a vehicle in his life. I can think of a hundred ways of designing it that have no disadvantages or cost increase. Toyota lost more than a few points in my book over this fiasco.

I hate to say it but I'm stuck and might have to take my truck somewhere to have them put the shoes back on. I'm in the process of replacing my passenger side caliper and installing new rear rotors and pads on both sides. I was removing the passenger rotor and the right side retainer / spring popped off...I too had no intentions of fooling w/ the parking brake. Now I can't get the f'ing spring cups compressed enough to make them fit back into the groove of the shoe.

When you said the engineer at Toyota never worked on a vehicle that designed the parking brake you aren't lying. I've seen youtube videos of the same retainers / springs out in the open not hidden behind the shoe where there's not enough room to get a damn finger behind to compress the spring.




And the shop manual is no help, here's what it says on how to re-assemble:
"Install the 2 pins, 4 cups and 2 shoe hold−down springs."
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Unread 05-11-2014, 04:48 PM   #12
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I just finished putting rear rotors and brake pads on my 2009 Toyota Venza and wanted to thank this thread. If someone would not have posted that they think they bent the hold down spring pin I think I would still be trying to find out why it was hitting the hub. I thought it came bent from the factory that way.

Last edited by vette1975@gmail.com; 05-11-2014 at 04:53 PM.
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Unread 08-24-2015, 05:29 AM   #13
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This is a late bump, but I'd like to add that I bought the tiniest zip ties that I could find at Walmart (pic of bag below) and they worked great for compressing the springs/cups. Remember to clip/remove them before assembling the rest of the hardware. Also, do NOT waste your money on a hardware kit from AutoZone. Very inferior parts such as the star wheel adjuster being shorter and c-clips being flimsy. I ended up re-using most of the stock stuff instead.





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Unread 08-31-2015, 04:43 AM   #14
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I'd like to add that after the install I noticed some slight squealy a few days later. Turns out not replacing all of the hardware was a mistake as some of the peices were damaged (a bent spring and a bent pin):

(rear pin)
Top pin is the new/good pin. Notice how both ends are on the same axis. This ensures that the rear shoe sits straight.



(lower spring that goes next to starwheel)
Both of these springs are stretched/bent but the top one is in better shape. The good one I already installed before taking the pic, but the two end hooks should be about even.



I swapped out these and re-greased the areas that require it and the squealing went away.
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Unread 03-15-2016, 01:17 AM   #15
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Hi Gents, Thanks for the help, Please help after replacing my new brakes my wheels are running warm. Any suggestions.
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Unread 03-25-2017, 06:11 PM   #16
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Replacing rear parking brake shoes = a f'n headache. What a biatch!

The design of the two retaining springs on the pins hidden behind the hub is the worst design ever. I used long needle nose pliers to keep my fat fingers out the way but it was still a PITA.

I used the Autozone replacement parts which I found perfect and equally of good quality as OEM parts. I did lubricate all touching parts and also used anti seize on adjuster and locktite on various bolts that may wiggle loose over rough terrain.

Here's my quick notes but not comprehensive procedure.

Hint: when putting things back together; I did my order different from some videos found online because I found it too difficult trying to juggle multiple parts at the same time....
Connect parking brake cable to lever
Assemble rear pin and spring mechanism
Install rear shoe
Assemble front pin and spring mechanism
Install front shoe
Install top spacer plate with flat spring, between shoes
Install adjuster at the bottom of the shoes
Install spring at bottom of shoes
Install top rear spring
Install top front spring
Put rotor on hub and use two open lug nuts to pull rotor onto hub
Use adjuster to spread shoes out to surface of rotor
Once shoes are touching rotor, back out adjuster maybe a quarter turn.
Spin hub to ensure shoes are not dragging

From there install brake pad retaining frame
Install brake pad retaining clips. (Not sure if they are also anti-rattle clips?)
Install pads
Install caliper top hat

Don't forget to use anti-squeal lubricant, anti-sneeze lubricant, locktite as Necessary.
Did I say this was a biatch job?! Wow!
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Unread 03-31-2017, 10:15 AM   #17
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Reading this makes me want to just get a pro rock jock 60 or F9 Rear axle lol. But then I would still have the same rear brake set up haha.
Good info though guys on this pain of a project

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Unread 03-16-2019, 08:32 AM   #18
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Bumping an old thread.

I just finished a complete overhaul of my rear brakes. Everything went ok, it truly takes an act of god to get the brake shoe retaining spring in. After everything was done, I spun the caliper and the driver side was perfect, slight drag Finished the same thing on the passenger side and I was getting drag on what seemed one side of the drum. I removed everything and reinstalled it, yes I did it twice.

What I noticed on the passenger side was that if the rotor was slide on and spun it was a little drag (adjuster all the way in), if I installed a couple lug nuts to hold it in place, the rotor wouldn't spin without a lot of force. I put it all together and took it for a drive, hoping the shoes were a little too big and would set it. I swapped rotors from side to side and the same problem still persists.

I drove about 3-4 miles and the rotors both seemed to be equally hot to the touch. Has anyone else encountered anything similar? Currently the truck is parked without the ebrake on.

Thank you.
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Unread 03-18-2019, 12:05 PM   #19
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Mine (emergency brake) started dragging after a few months so I tore them down again to see what was up. I got pissed and just did an "emergency brake delete". Added 5HP for suuuure!

Looking forward to having my new axles in and having an emergency brake again!

Not had a problem with the rear brake pads until one side the pads somehow sheared while off-roading in the Sierra's last year. That was a Head F^#@*K fixing that on the trail!
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