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Unread 09-12-2009, 06:48 PM   #1
expat
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Default Tie rod replacement

NOTE: This is a draft. Pix to come

Inners and outers, approximately 30-40mins a side for a doofus like me.

Turn steering full lock driver down and start with the driver side tie rods

1. Remove band securing rubber boot on inner tie rod. I can't see a way to remove the bands without braking them, by wedging a screw driver inside the band. Look for a raised section to get the screw driver under and prise. Take care not to put a hole in the boot. Use pliers to loosen clamp on other end of boot.

2. Once the band is removed and the small clamp is loosened off the boot, pull back the boot to reveal inner tie rod joint (sort of ball and socket looking). There is a flat washer that has two sides bent (as tabs) over the joint. You need to punch these washer tabs out on both sides to make the washer flat. These two ends were bent over the ball to stop it unscrewing. You can discard the washer later. This was not an easy task, because the tabs are hard to get at with a punch and hammer. I used a pry bar on the driver side to pry out one of the tabs that I could not get to with a punch. Now the other side (passenger was a snap just because the tabs were facing top and bottom not front and rear. Anyhow, we are not doing the passenger side yet.)

3. Once you have opened up the tabs move to the outer tie rod. Firstly Remove the split pin from the tie rod bolt. Unscrew the nut and remove. Using a tie rod puller, drop the outer tie rod end.

4. Now back to the inner tie rod. You may need a special tool (narrow wrench) to unscrew the inner tie rod a little. (insert special tool number and size of tool - available thru Matco). You could grab the inner rod socket with a large set of vice grips. Once you have loosened the ball and socket a little, you can unscrew it by hand easily. Unscrew until you can remove the inner and outer tie rod as one unit.

5. If you are changing out both tie rods it would be best to measure the length of the two tie rods as one unit so you have an approximate length to make the new tie rods when assembled. If replacing just inner or just outer, then you need to scribe or mark both rods and count how many turn it takes to separate them. (Mine was approx 15 turns) When you screw a new end on, you need to count the turns to get an approximately similar length. (After this you will need an alignment)

6. Instal is the reverse procedure with a few tips.

- I found it hard to get leverage to bend the new washer back (tabs) so to create more room I turned on the engine and turned the steering passenger down. This pulls the steering shaft inwards so you have a bit more space for screwing in the new unit. So screw in the the inner tie rod.
- Once that is done you will have to push your tire/wheel manually to line up the outer tie rod with its socket. Tighten inner tie rod using special tool.
- Tighten outer tie rod nut. If you find the outer tie rod bolt spins, put some leverage on the tie rod to stop it from spinning. If you have new outers this won't be a problem because they are tight when new and don't spin easily.

7. Instal new split pin thru bolt on outer tie rod.

8. Place boot over inner tie rod and tie off with new clamp or zip ties.

9. Place boot over out tie rod and clamp using exisiting clamp.

10. Time to do the same to the other side. Exactly same procedure.

No need to remove wheels, swaybar etc.

MORE TO COME SOON
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Unread 09-12-2009, 06:48 PM   #2
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1. Remove clip on boot



2. Pull boot back to reveal ball and socket of inner tie rod



3. Open up flat washer on the inner side of inner tie rod - allows socket to be unscrewed from rack

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Last edited by expat; 01-03-2014 at 12:05 AM.
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Unread 09-12-2009, 06:49 PM   #3
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4. Remove split pin



5. Use tie rod puller to drop outer tie rod



6. Old outer tie rod above, new one below



7. New inner tie rod below and old above

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Last edited by expat; 01-03-2014 at 12:11 AM.
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Unread 09-13-2009, 12:15 AM   #4
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Very cool write up, waiting for the pix.

I attached the Repair Manual procedure that includes removing and installing the tierods for reference.

Seems that large pliers are needed to undo the clips.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf w040001.pdf (418.0 KB, 185 views)
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Unread 11-12-2013, 07:45 AM   #5
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Umm, I'm not holding my breath Mark,lol. But I will refer back to this when I do my inners.
I have been tracking down a weird drivers side sound for about a month now. I thought maybe my coilover lost charge but they were fine. That is the closest thing I could think of from the sound I was experiencing like something is loose but nothing was. I only heard the noise over small soft ball sized rocks. Well over the weekend it seemed it got a little louder so I inspected again. This time I had a lot of play in my tire 9-3 o’clock area. Checked the tie rod and the outer was very easy to move by hand. I thought maybe it’s not trqd down but it was and it had the cotter pin installed as well. Anyway I replaced my Outer on the driver’s side last night and the sound seems to be gone and my steering is a lot better now too! The old one was SHOT, I mean scary shot the joint is very loose and has up/down movement to.

Bobby
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Unread 12-26-2013, 03:24 PM   #6
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My tie rods are due for replacement so this time Ill grab some photos lol.

Unfortunately my front tires are shaped like eggs, so I will have to consider whether to go back to OEM...
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Unread 01-03-2014, 12:17 AM   #7
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Pictures added (finally) 1/1/14

Steering feels MUCH btter

Old tier rods were Moog

New ones are DEEZA

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...503&cc=1428881

So in the past month i replaced
- Wheel bearings (got rid of clicking sound)
- Rotors (got rid of severe shaking under braking - rotors warped)
- calipers (better brake response)
- LCA's with new ball joints (less shimmy and squeaking)
- Inner and outer tie rods (removed loose sloppy steering)
- two new front tires (stopped some vibration)

and I still have vibration coming into the cabin!!!! Grrrrrrr
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Last edited by expat; 01-03-2014 at 12:21 AM.
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Unread 01-03-2014, 09:15 AM   #8
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out of curiosity when does the vibration happen?
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Unread 01-05-2014, 11:21 AM   #9
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Ymv but for me pretty much all the time but it may be symptomatic of another problem for me because I'm still chasing down a vibration. I think next for me is an adjustable pan hard bar then maybe new rear tires.
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Unread 01-05-2014, 11:21 AM   #10
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I do notice how much more responsive steering is with new tierods.
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Unread 01-06-2014, 07:54 AM   #11
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Thanks for the pic's Mark. 2 questions, 1) did you have any noises from your bad tie rod, 2) Did you have play in your inners? I see the outer boots look like they were torn possibly. When I checked mine I had both wheels off the ground, igniton on acc, pulled tires at 9/3 o'clock position back/forth and watched to make sure the other side turned with out any play. My outer was very loose but the inners seemed fine.

Agreed about the steering feeling better. Hope you track down your vibrations.
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Last edited by Darklight; 01-06-2014 at 06:07 PM.
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Unread 01-08-2014, 01:10 PM   #12
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Not much play from outer but the inner ball and socket was pretty worn. Boots are fine. No tears.
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Unread 01-09-2014, 07:19 AM   #13
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Thanks Mark, in the picture with the puller it just appeared to be torn. Hope the Deeza inners last longer then the Moog ones did for you.
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Unread 02-11-2014, 09:41 PM   #14
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Thank you for this write up! I just finished putting new inner tie rods and ends on mine last night thanks to your help!
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Unread 04-11-2014, 10:10 AM   #15
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For three years I've had a light "pop" from the front left when the suspension unloads just slightly. It sounds just like the solenoid engaging in my Sure Power 1314-200 battery separator, if anyone happens to have one under their hood (though it is not the source in this case).

I suspect the problem may be related to this post. I only hear it on the street, in a left turn, when the left wheel drops into a slight road dip.

Toyota couldn't isolate it. My off road shop inspected it and the Donahoe coilovers and said all was good.

Anyone have suggestions for how to isolate the noise source? I've replaced the sway bar links and even the heims on the Donahoe UCAs, but apparently I'm just shooting in the dark.
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Unread 04-11-2014, 12:54 PM   #16
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Tracking down these type of noises can be frustrating, The one thing to do is first off make sure everything is trqd down properly. The Lower control arms make a noise as described when they're not trqd down properly. On my outer tie rod it was had allot of play but it was making a rattle/ping type noise over small/medium sized rocks from it.

FrontSuspension
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Unread 04-11-2014, 06:58 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZRocks View Post
For three years I've had a light "pop" from the front left when the suspension unloads just slightly. It sounds just like the solenoid engaging in my Sure Power 1314-200 battery separator, if anyone happens to have one under their hood (though it is not the source in this case).

I suspect the problem may be related to this post. I only hear it on the street, in a left turn, when the left wheel drops into a slight road dip.

Toyota couldn't isolate it. My off road shop inspected it and the Donahoe coilovers and said all was good.

Anyone have suggestions for how to isolate the noise source? I've replaced the sway bar links and even the heims on the Donahoe UCAs, but apparently I'm just shooting in the dark.
Start with checking the tie rods by jacking up the vehicle and grab the tire at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock and check for excessive play, compare left to the right and do the same by grabbing the tires at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and report back.
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Unread 04-13-2014, 07:28 AM   #18
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I checked the 3 - 9 and 6 - 12 play on both wheels. It didn't seem excessive and was the same for both wheels. No clunking or anything. The noise didn't change after an alignment, so I think the LCAs are torqued to spec. Everything else looks normal (tho I see the upper CV boot is starting to leak grease).

I suspect this will continue to be a mystery . . .
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Unread 06-09-2016, 10:27 AM   #19
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Default Inner Tie Rod install

Needed to replace my drivers side inner tie rod. I have an extra set now just in case. Will do the passenger side in the future as well but it seems fine for now. Used Moog inner tie rod and ordered from Rock Auto. Received Moog but the actual part is Made in Japan and is Sankei 555. Did a little write up for the install, which went smoothly.


Tools
19mm deep socket, spindle outer tie rod nut trq 67lbs
14mm & 22mm open end wrench tie rod jam nut
BFH or tie rod puller for spindle nut
tie rod removal tool, pipe wrench or 36mm crow foot for inner tie rod trq 72lbs
blue thread locker for inner
2.5” stainless steel round edge hose clamp (inner large clamp) or optional ¼”X12” zip tie

Removing inner tie rod
Mark outer thread/jam nut placement with a marker, tape or paint, loosen jam nut
Remove cotter pin and nut from outer tierod/spindle,
Remove outer tie rod, counting the full spins to remove from inner,
Remove clamps from inner tie rod, bigger clamp is disregarded and replaced with 2.5” hose clamp or zip tie
Fold back washer tabs with hammer and chisel/flat head, tip (you can turn the steering wheel to access the inner tie rod better)
Using inner tie rod tool break free the inner tie rod from steering box, you can now freely unscrew the inner tie rod.

Installing new inner tie rod
Place washer with lock tabs facing the steering box and line up tabs,
Using blue thread locker install inner tie rod until it is snug,
Using inner tie rod tool trq to 72lbs of torque,
Using a hammer and chisel/flat had fold over the washer tabs,
Place boot over the inner tie rod, line up boot with grooves on steering box fully covering tie rod and steering arm and tighten the (hose clamp),
Line up the small side with grooves and tighten the clamp down (self-tightening),
Install outer tie rod, counting and matching number of full turns to removal amount. Tighten the jam nut as tight as possible,
Install nut to spindle trq specs 67lbs of torque.


Install pictures,

Using Pittsburg part# 1752 tie rod puller with 1 5/16” - 2.5” opening





Using inner tie rod removal tool from Napa Auto Part # SER946




New inner tie rod Moog but is actually Sankei 555 made in Japan 





enjoy



Bobby
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Unread 06-16-2016, 03:40 PM   #20
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i need to do this very soon.
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