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Unread 02-01-2010, 06:18 PM   #21
bulldog
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Doesn't Napa rent tools?

Highly recommend BJ separator vs hammering on things.
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Unread 02-01-2010, 06:18 PM   #22
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also http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ino...gAndSuspension
still hammering, but at least with a tool haha
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Unread 02-01-2010, 06:25 PM   #23
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Stay away from those pickle fork separators. They mess up the rubber boot of the joint.

You want to use a pitman arm type puller.
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Unread 02-01-2010, 06:38 PM   #24
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This is what you want! you can find them online for $60 shipped! This one is made by OTC.
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Unread 02-01-2010, 08:44 PM   #25
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Autozone?
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Unread 02-01-2010, 09:03 PM   #26
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Sandapanda - I see your caster is at 3.5 on the left and 3.6 on the right. Is there any reason not to go for something like 3 degrees even?

I remember on another thread where Photog mentioned that too much caster puts unnecessary stress on the steering rack and that values between 2.5 and 3.5 were best.

I'm wondering if I should ask the alignment shop to try and get me 0 camber and 3 degrees caster or is this not that important / stupid request / not requestable, etc. ?
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Unread 02-02-2010, 12:50 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulldog View Post
Stay away from those pickle fork separators. They mess up the rubber boot of the joint.

You want to use a pitman arm type puller.
Only if you care about saving the stock arm. I didn't.
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Unread 02-02-2010, 03:22 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl44 View Post
Sandapanda - I see your caster is at 3.5 on the left and 3.6 on the right. Is there any reason not to go for something like 3 degrees even?

I remember on another thread where Photog mentioned that too much caster puts unnecessary stress on the steering rack and that values between 2.5 and 3.5 were best.

I'm wondering if I should ask the alignment shop to try and get me 0 camber and 3 degrees caster or is this not that important / stupid request / not requestable, etc. ?
More caster will make it harder for the rack to turn the wheels but it also acts as a damper for the rack. Since the purpose of our trucks is offroad use he is fine. They dont sell steering dampers atleast I have never seen one. the more important part is camber you want to have atleast -.5 so when you are on road going around turns the tire has 90% contactpatch. The factory spec may be 0 or sligth positive but the problem there is the control arms at factory height are sraight with a lift they point down. So as you down travel the arms will push the tire to positive caster at compression. Toe always set to factory spec because it has the most to do with tire wear.

This is my opinion I use to do this for a living i did go to school for alighments but everyone has their opinion and this happens to be mine. I have to put this disclamier because everyone has their opinion.
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Unread 02-02-2010, 07:04 PM   #29
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More caster will make it harder for the rack to turn the wheels but it also acts as a damper for the rack. Since the purpose of our trucks is offroad use he is fine. They dont sell steering dampers atleast I have never seen one. the more important part is camber you want to have atleast -.5 so when you are on road going around turns the tire has 90% contactpatch. The factory spec may be 0 or sligth positive but the problem there is the control arms at factory height are sraight with a lift they point down. So as you down travel the arms will push the tire to positive caster at compression. Toe always set to factory spec because it has the most to do with tire wear.

This is my opinion I use to do this for a living i did go to school for alighments but everyone has their opinion and this happens to be mine. I have to put this disclamier because everyone has their opinion.

Jam - I appreciate your input. I installed these today and will align tomorrow. I very much appreciate the different perspective, particularly on camber.

The install was easier than I expected. I removed the battery for the driver's side UCA bolt removal. I unfastened a brake line junction on both sides to get to the UCA main bolt as well as removing the air box just for fun. It probably wasn't necessary but I also unbolted the sensor wire(s) at the top of each shock tower area as well as the bracket on the UCA itself. The UCA bolts came out on both sides with no problem and I did not have to bend a wheel well panel. I removed the ball joint by just hitting the spindle on the flat area with a shot hammer. They both came out easily with no damage to any parts.

I will post alignment results when I get it aligned.
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Unread 02-02-2010, 09:06 PM   #30
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JAM07Sport

As usual you bring up an interesting point. The alignment shop aligns for with stock suspension. With a lift, I wonder if we need to be aligning to different values. For example, even with the camber listed as aligned correctly, visually it still seems that the wheels are slanted inwards. Steering feel in turns is fine however.
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Unread 02-03-2010, 05:28 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandapanda View Post
JAM07Sport

As usual you bring up an interesting point. The alignment shop aligns for with stock suspension. With a lift, I wonder if we need to be aligning to different values. For example, even with the camber listed as aligned correctly, visually it still seems that the wheels are slanted inwards. Steering feel in turns is fine however.
If the tires point in at the top you are good. That is negitive camber. what happens is when you go around a turn the weight shif to the outside tire causes the suspension to compress and when your suspension travels up the camber will go to 0 and give your tire the best contact patch. Depending on your air pressure will decide how much of the tire is contacting the road. but if inflated correctly it should be 90%.This happens because the upper control arm is pointed down at rest. it gets longer as the suspension compresses because it will be pointing straight out. This pushes the top of the tire out there for changing the the caster.
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Unread 02-04-2010, 10:35 PM   #32
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Here's my LR UCA porn

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Unread 02-04-2010, 10:47 PM   #33
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Ludedude, can you post your alignment spec? you and I have identical setups, with the UCA adjusted all the way out, it would be curious to compare! Thanks.
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Unread 02-04-2010, 11:29 PM   #34
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No clue on the specs, my friend Rich at Toyota is the local alignment guru so he just did his magic but I didn't ask for details.
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Unread 02-11-2010, 11:06 AM   #35
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Default UCA's installed,, alignment done.

Just got back from Les S. having it alligned, definetly drives a lot better, not as twitchy as before the UCA's.

Here are the specs:


After installing Daystar+Spidertrax+FJC springs & shocks:

Left:
Camber 0.2
Caster 1.7
Toe 0.03

Right:
Camber 0.1
Caster 1.3
Toe 0.04


After installing UCA's:

Left:
Camber -0.4
Caster 2.9
Toe 0.04

Right:
Camber -0.4
Caster 3.2
Toe 0.04
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Unread 08-21-2013, 08:15 PM   #36
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Thread Revive w/Questions Regarding LR UCA Settings

I thought I would resuscitate this thread since my question related to LR UCA adjustment. What is everyone running for the setting on the UCA (caster setting) and what is the measured caster you are shooting for?

I have LR UCAs and 285/70/17 GY DT and I'm getting some rubbing at the back of the wheel well when the front is compressed. Not too bad, but could I get rid of the rubbing if I ask the shop for more caster (maybe more than factory spec)? Or dial back the LR UCR to 1* and re-align the wheels to spec? Currently the LR UCAs are set for D (base +2*).

My last alignment was:

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Unread 05-20-2016, 11:29 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny4runner View Post
Thread Revive w/Questions Regarding LR UCA Settings

I thought I would resuscitate this thread since my question related to LR UCA adjustment. What is everyone running for the setting on the UCA (caster setting) and what is the measured caster you are shooting for?

I have LR UCAs and 285/70/17 GY DT and I'm getting some rubbing at the back of the wheel well when the front is compressed. Not too bad, but could I get rid of the rubbing if I ask the shop for more caster (maybe more than factory spec)? Or dial back the LR UCR to 1* and re-align the wheels to spec? Currently the LR UCAs are set for D (base +2*).

My last alignment was:

I just purchased my LR UCA. I might set it at 3.0 setting "C"

Last edited by neoguri; 05-20-2016 at 11:30 AM. Reason: setting
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Unread 05-20-2016, 12:12 PM   #38
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The thread comes back to life again!

Setting mine to "E" worked, and got rid of the rubbing at the back of the wheel well on compression. I think "D" moves the wheel too far back at the top, thus you have to move the wheel too far back at the bottom to keep the caster within spec--otherwise the caster is too high. And moving the wheel back causes it to rub at the back of the well. On "E" I could max out my rear cam adjuster (move the wheel as far forward as possible) and still be within spec for the caster. On "D" the rear cam was not maxed out when the alignment was within spec.

Once I told my alignment shop what I was trying to do--move the tire forward, they knew exactly what to do, and maxed out the rear cam, and then they got the rest of the alignment in spec using the front cam. It sounded like it was a pretty common issue with IFS lifted trucks.

Of course this all depends a lot on your specific wheel, tire and suspension setup.

On a related note, I also slide my camber adjustment in about 1/3 of the way (reducing camber). Most here have the camber adjustment all the way out (positive camber). But I found on "E" the alignment was easier to get into spec with the camber adjusted a bit in.

I don't think you want the UCAs set to "C" -- +3. That is too much caster and will cause your tire to rub if you are running larger tires.
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Last edited by Johnny4runner; 05-20-2016 at 12:34 PM. Reason: Corrected reference to setting "E" (+1) rather than setting "C" (+3)
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Unread 05-27-2016, 08:28 AM   #39
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Be sure to check your ball joint at full droop, to make sure it doesn't contact the spring. Even with mine all the way out, it barely makes contact with the spring. Slightly moved in made it contact it more than I was comfortable with. My shop was still able to get camber perfect, with it all the way out, and at the 1* setting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny4runner View Post
The thread comes back to life again!

Setting mine to "E" worked, and got rid of the rubbing at the back of the wheel well on compression. I think "D" moves the wheel too far back at the top, thus you have to move the wheel too far back at the bottom to keep the caster within spec--otherwise the caster is too high. And moving the wheel back causes it to rub at the back of the well. On "E" I could max out my rear cam adjuster (move the wheel as far forward as possible) and still be within spec for the caster. On "D" the rear cam was not maxed out when the alignment was within spec.

Once I told my alignment shop what I was trying to do--move the tire forward, they knew exactly what to do, and maxed out the rear cam, and then they got the rest of the alignment in spec using the front cam. It sounded like it was a pretty common issue with IFS lifted trucks.

Of course this all depends a lot on your specific wheel, tire and suspension setup.

On a related note, I also slide my camber adjustment in about 1/3 of the way (reducing camber). Most here have the camber adjustment all the way out (positive camber). But I found on "E" the alignment was easier to get into spec with the camber adjusted a bit in.

I don't think you want the UCAs set to "C" -- +3. That is too much caster and will cause your tire to rub if you are running larger tires.
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Unread 09-19-2016, 07:21 AM   #40
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OK, I'll revive this thread again.

Out of the box and onto the truck, I set my SPC LR UCAs at position "D" and have some ridiculously positive camber with my 2" lift, even when shifting the ball joint assembly towards the engine. I haven't had a chance to play around with them much, but will moving them to E, F or G reduce some of that camber?
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