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Unread 06-13-2008, 04:57 PM   #1
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Default Daystar (Spacer) installation on 4Runner with XREAS

Installing the 4th Gen with XREAS Daystar Kit by Bulldog

This is my experience with installing the Daystar kit on the 4th Gen 4Runner with XREAS. I accept no responsibility for anybody reading, listening or following these instructions or tips, your damage (to body or vehicle) is your responsibility. Done with that part, so lets discuss the lift.

First lets talk about the lift kit itself. It is basically 4 spacers and 6 nuts and bolts for the front and two rear coil spacers. See picture. I got one that was specified at 2.5” lift for the front and 2” for the back. I will show before and after photos and measurements at the end, so at least there is some suspense.


Now before we start with the lift, you are only as good as your tools. Or let me rephrase, it makes life easier if you have the right tools. You obviously need the common tools, such as wrenches, ratchets, sockets, floor jack with stands (22”+ lift recommended), torque wrench, etc. I will focus on tools that worked well and made life easier, tools that were disappointing and didn’t work too well, and then lastly tools that just simply did not WORK at all.

Tools that worked well and recommended:

Creeper seat, saves your back, you can put tools and parts in the tray, you can also move around without getting up. Call it the garage La-Z-Boy.


Deep well sockets for removing the studs and then replacing them.

Tie rod puller, works wonders for removing any tie rods or ball joints without a fuss.


Ratchet wrenches or Gear Ratchet, it has a hole for bolts to go through and also a very low profile for tight spots. The action is so much better than the ratchet wrench.


4Way lug wrench for doing the wheels quickly and a pry bar for leverage.


Oh and save your hands get mechanic gloves.


As it is a Toyota, make sure you have 12,14,17,19mm wrenches and sockets, variety of each can be useful.

Keep the standard little bottle jack that came with the 4Runner handy, it will help you a lot.

A platform (waste paper container for me) about 15” high.

Vise grip to grab top shock bolt.


Tools that didn’t work as well as hoped, but got the job done:

The Craftsman strut spring compressors did the job, but with a lot of pain. First I couldn’t get the security clips over the spring. So much for this safety feature. Then the bolt was too close to the spring, so I kept wrenching the socket against the spring, a big pain. Then lastly it looked like the bolt bent slightly as the spring tension increased, making it a real pain wrenching. Speaking of wrenching wait for the tools that didn’t work.



Tools that sucked:

Pickle fork, or otherwise referred to as ball joint separator. Avoid this if you can. You should get a puller as above. This thing can damage your boots on tie rods and ball joints.

Deciding to a smart ass, I got a battery impact wrench. Not having a compressor and looking at the prices of air tools, this $29 impact wrench looked like a bargain. Well, I guess you get what you pay for. It simply didn’t work on the strut compressors, as soon as the torque was needed it moved so slow that I went to manual mode. It does make a lot of noise though, but that’s about it.
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Unread 06-13-2008, 05:02 PM   #2
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Time:

It took me a little over 10 hours to do the front and back. This includes a couple of trips to the store, to get wrenches and sockets that I didn’t have. Also included a break for lunch. As I am no pro mechanic or expert it should take less time with more experienced hands. Also hopefully by reading this you will have to figure out less of the interesting moves required, and this should save you at least 3 hours. Also having helping hands will reduce the time, not sure by how much. At least they will work better at getting you a beer from the fridge than my bulldog. He was more intent on catching up with some sleep, although he does sleep more than 16 hours a day.



Lets get started:

This is what worked for me and what didn’t, also my lessons learned. I will include some of the basic instructions to make it easier for a novice, but not a complete novice.


Front
  1. Make sure the 4Runner is parked on level surface in park with manual brake on. Also some bricks around back wheels wont hurt.
  2. Remove front skid plate (if you don’t know what that is stop and call that mechanic buddy of yours)
  3. Loosen front wheel nuts.
  4. Jack up the 4R(unner) on cross member under front diff, you can use another cross member if you like this is just the one I used. Jack it up pretty high so you have 7” clear below the wheels. Position jack stands on frame, in line with gearbox (normal jack points). Once the 4R is resting on the stands make sure you have 4-5” clear under the wheels.
  5. Take front wheels of.
  6. Remove sway bar links on both sides (use tie rod puller to make it easy), and get under the front and remove the front swaybar/stabilizer bar. (Again if you don’t know what a swaybar/stabilizer bar is stop and call that buddy). It has 4 bolts on the frame in the front, be careful of something not falling on you, the front bolts only need to be loosened as it has grooves so you can slide it out. This can avoid something from falling on you, almost had it slip and fall on my head (did I mention crash helmet in useful tools???) Also another tip is too put the nuts and bolts back in their positions once you have loosened them, so you don’t go looking for it later (old trick I learned many moons ago).
  7. Separate tie rod ends (steering), and move then out of the way. Again use the tie rod puller to separate it.(Please replace the cotter pins, when you install it again, so you might want to send the dog shopping for spares).
  8. Now undo and remove top strut mount nuts (3). This is where the gear ratchet comes in handy for those back ones.
  9. Remove bottom strut mount nut and bolt. Once you remove the nut, use the pry bar pushing down on the upper A arm to release tension on the bolt and then wiggle it out. (Get ready for the fun to start, so you might want to drink a soda/beer or if you smoke take a smoke break, I cant smoke anymore since Cuban cigars are illegal here )
  10. Move the 15” platform to just in front of the front suspension, so you can rest the strut on it once you get it out. First use pry bar to push down the A arm pretty hard till you can wiggle the bottom of the strut out. (If you don’t feel like pushing down with one hand and wiggling the strut out with the other, you can use the bottle jack to push the A arm down from the top of the fender. It provides good leverage but takes some time to set up.)
  11. Now let the strut rest on the bottom A arm. Put the bottle jack underneath the suspension and start pushing the suspension up. Continue to check the strut does not get pinched anywhere, nor the XREAS line or any of the braking system lines. Once the top A arm goes above the top of the strut, you should be able to remove the strut and lay it flat relatively easily. Put the bottom end of the strut on the driveshaft or bottom A arm and the top on the platform. Jack down the suspension a bit to release tension and gain some working space.
  12. Put the spring compressors on the strut spring. If you have air tools (impact wrench or air ratchet) enjoy, else sweat it baby. Compress the spring till you have ¾” free play with the spring in the strut assembly.
  13. Remove the top bolt on the shock, with a wrench and vise grip. Remove the top assembly from strut. Remove the old coil spring isolator from the mounting plate.

Continued.............
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Last edited by bulldog; 06-13-2008 at 05:17 PM.
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Unread 06-13-2008, 05:16 PM   #3
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Front continued
  1. Remove the three bolts/studs from the top strut mounting plate, by just putting the stud top on top of a deep well socket (obviously big enough that the stud top can go into it) and hammering it out.
  2. Insert Daystar kit studs into mounting plate by turning it around positioning deep well socket below hole and hammering it in.
  3. Insert new coil spring isolator (M03273) and reassemble the top strut unit with cushion washers and nut. Do not tighten yet.
  4. Hoped you paid attention to how the assembly was lined up at the top compared to the bottom of the strut (even better hoped you read the complete instructions before starting). Try to align the top and bottom as close as possible when you tighten the top nut on the shock. Don’t worry, you can always correct it a little bit later, but the closer the better.
  5. Decompress the coil spring. Another pain if you have the Craftsman compressor and ratchet in hand, with no air tools. Make sure the coil spring mounts correctly in the strut.
  6. Slide Daystar spacer (M03532) on top of the strut assembly. Go take a break again as the real fun starts now!!
  7. Now push suspension up again with jack till you can get the top of the strut into the mounting space. This will be a combination up jacking up a bit and wiggling the strut. A quick note to those with Revtek spacers, you will have less trouble here as the strut height is less than the Daystar with it’s top spacer. Once it goes into the assembly past the A arm, make sure you align the top studs to the holes, and that the bottom XREAS connector is where it was before you removed it. Also ensure the lower strut is aligned to where it should go later, as close as possible. Then let the suspension down on the jack, you just need it to get past the A arm.
  8. Magic tip: Once you get the first bolt through the hole catch it with the supplied nut. Now push to get the other bolt/stud through the mounting hole and also catch it. Forget about the back one, as the strut is still skew and you will have difficulty catching it with the nut. Wrench down the two front nuts a bit, till you can get the back stud with a nut as well. Wrench down all three a bit, even if the strut is not in at the bottom and still skew. Do not tighten just pull the strut in a bit. It was impossible for me to get the bottom in without doing this and I wasted more than an hour messing around before doing this.
  9. Now put the bottle jack at the top A arm (told you it will come in handy) and push down the A arm and suspension. Forget about using the pry bar (unless you are Aaaaarnold). Align the bottom of the strut with the assembly where it should go in, by putting a screwdriver in the bottom hole of the strut and twisting it slightly. As stated above you should only do this if it is off slightly, if it is way off it might be better to pull the whole thing out and align it better. Now as you force the suspension down with the jack wiggle and slide the bottom in. (For those of you with 4WD and XREAS this proves to be very entertaining for bystanders)
  10. Once in keep the jack pushing down and align the holes with a screwdriver. Tip: Take bolt on one side and align with screwdriver on other till you get bolt into the lower strut hole. Hammer it through to the other side, make sure to not damage anything. Put nut on and tighten lightly.
  11. Tighten top nuts on strut assembly. Only torque them, once you have the 4R standing on it’s wheels again. (I still can’t figure out how to torque the back nut.)
  12. Tighten and torque the bottom strut nut.
  13. Install tie rod, tighten, torque and replace cotter pin. (Check ABS light by switching on the ignition, so if you broke anything at least you know which side it is.)
  14. Do the other side. (stupid instruction hey)
  15. Install front sway bar to frame, install and torque links to front suspension on both sides.
  16. Install wheels and lower 4R to ground. Make sure to torque wheel nuts properly.
  17. Install front skid plate. (Feel the extra space)
  18. Torque or tighten top strut nuts as best you can. (Again feel the extra space)
  19. Call buddies to brag while you drink a beer. Take a break before doing the back.
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Unread 06-13-2008, 05:20 PM   #4
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Back:



((No need to do this if you remove the sway bar links.))

  1. You know the drill, flat surface manual brake, etc. Only this time bricks under the front wheels will be a good idea.
  2. Relax this is a lot easier than the front. (Axles rule when lifting, my apologies to anybody where I said anything bad about an axle)
  3. Crack wheel nuts at the back.
  4. Lift back by rear diff. Place jack stands under frame just in front of rear wheels. This time make sure you leave plenty inches under the rear tires.
  5. Remove rear wheels.
  6. Lower axle a bit till sway bar disconnects look unstressed. Remove disconnects with tie rod puller.
  7. Remove pan hard bar (lateral control rod) bolt on axle on the driver side.
  8. Lower axle till shocks are at full length, remove bolt at lower shocks. Loosen top nuts on shocks a little as well. Remove shocks from lower mount on axle.
  9. Let axle hang by removing floor jack. The axle should now be easily manipulated by hand, so you don’t need extra force as in the picture. Disconnecting the sway bar links made all the difference.
  10. You should be able to remove the coil springs easily by pushing down the axle by hand.
  11. Insert spacers between coil spring and top coil spring isolator.
  12. Insert the coil spring assembly back into the 4R, making sure it seats properly on the axle assembly/pad.
  13. Place jack under diff and lift it till the shock and axle mounting point align. Insert and install shocks. Torque bolts and tighten top nuts on shocks.
  14. Jack axle up further till you can install sway bar links. Torque them.
  15. Jack up the axle a little more till you can install the pan hard bolt. Torque it.
  16. Lift axle till you can install wheels.
  17. Remove jack and stands and torque wheels.
  18. Drive round the block to make sure everything is OK.
  19. Measure your lift, go clean up and have a party.
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Unread 06-13-2008, 05:35 PM   #5
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Measurements and final pictures to compare:

Before the lift the 4R measurements were front 33.5” and rear 35.7”. After front 36” and rear 37.5”.

Also before and after side pictures next to each other.



Later Notes:

Note1:
After doing some suspension works a few times I found it easier to disconnect the upper A-arm balljoint on the front suspension. Make sure to remove the ABS line nut and clip from the A-arm first. Then put a strap in the eye of the spindle where the swaybar link comes in and around the A-arm to limit travel, which can damage the ABS line. Be careful as there will be a load pop once the balljoint comes out. Doing this makes the process of removing and replacing the strut a lot easier and quicker.

Note2:
We also figured out that you can pull the XREAS shocks from the vehicle by lifting it till all 4 wheels where hanging in the air. The support the frame in with 4 jackstands. Then the XREAS shocks and be disconnected at the disconnect joints without worry about damage. You might loose a drop or 2 of oil at most, but no effect on the system. Just make sure to never compress any of the shocks while the system is disconnected. This makes it easier to get the coils compressed at the struts. See this thread fro pictures of where to disconnect the AREAS system
http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showp...43&postcount=2

Note3:
Daystar has changed the kit. It no longer requires a preload spacer and and only has stud extensions fitted to the front strut. This removed the requirement to compress the front coils. See this link for the new kit.

Note4:
TQ specs and assembly of front and rear suspension can be found here.
http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showp...57&postcount=1
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Last edited by bulldog; 06-13-2008 at 05:51 PM.
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