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Unread 04-21-2015, 08:15 AM   #1
Darklight
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Default 4X4Labs install write up

When you get the bumper measure the mounting holes from the inside edge of the bumper. You'll need to cut the frame at least that far in or the bumper will hit the frame when you slide it on. Measure underside of the frame, towards the rear or outside of the vehicle from the tow hitch holes.


Cut it 3” to the center of the first mounting hole for the stock tow hitch bolt holes or the furthest hole from the rear body mount, measuring from near the body mount towards the outside of the vehicle


Picture shows inside bumper lip for reference. These line up to the tow hitch holes.


Untitled by Bobby Galeazzi, on Flickr


Start with removing the cross member first: I sawed from the top down, then around with a sawzall. Used a torch blade from Milwaukee


Untitled by Bobby Galeazzi, on Flickr



Now, with the cross member removed, measure from the rear body mount, using the two existing tow hitch holes in the bottom of the frame as the mounting points for the 2 holes in the bumper,
Measure 3” to the center of the first mounting hole for the stock tow hitch bolt holes or the furthest hole from the rear body mount towards the rear of the vehicle mark all the way around and remove the end caps with sawzall, then clean up with a grinder. Make sure the bottom and inside rail are clean since those are the bumper mounting surfaces.


We don’t need these anymore:

Untitled by Bobby Galeazzi, on Flickr


Again a sawzall was used to make this cut, straight down, Also need to hit the tire carrier members edges with a grinder cutoff wheel. Seen in the far left side area trimming done on the tire carrier mount.

Untitled by Bobby Galeazzi, on Flickr


Then clean up with a grinder. Make sure the bottom and inside rail are clean since those are the bumper mounting surfaces. Flapdisk 40 grit is what I used. Then hit bare metal areas with some paint.
Should look like this

Untitled by Bobby Galeazzi, on Flickr


All of the mounting holes are in the bumper, 3 on the bottom, 2 on the sides. I didn’t take any pictures of the plates but they’re beefy. You have to mount the bumper using the 2 per side existing tow hitch holes that are on the bottom of the frame. Mount the bumper temporarily.

Then using the bumper as a template, mark and drill the other mounting holes, two side holes, (there are already two holes on the frame but hey need to be enlarged to ˝” or slightly larger).

One more hole on the bottom, (this will be a new one that needs to be marked and drilled). Make them a tad larger than ˝”.

Once those holes are drilled with the bumper in position you can pull it off, insert the BEEFY nut plates into position inside the frame and then re-install the bumper.

The good thing is there are inspection holes in the frame you can see through and poke something in there to adjust the nut plates if needed. You will see once you are in there installing them

Install the supplied heavy duty hardware into the captive nut inserted plates, the bumper will connect to the inner plates so it will sandwich the frame. Use an alignment bar or punch to align the captive nuts if need be.


Untitled by Bobby Galeazzi, on Flickr


The license plate holder needs to be bolted to the gas can holder or attachment carrier on swing arm. You will also need to run a power/ground wire to the tail light for power. The plate holder uses bolt lights to illuminate the license plate, an old cell phone charger works great for wiring, the coil type. I used a hole under the taillight for access. It has a rubber plug that seals it up pretty good.


Untitled by Bobby Galeazzi, on Flickr

Routed wire:

Untitled by Bobby Galeazzi, on Flickr

The green wire with silver dots on the brake tail light is what you want to tap into. It is the park lights. You can solder or use a t tap or a posi-tap connector. You can pull ground off the bolt light on the body.

Untitled by Bobby Galeazzi, on Flickr


The stock tow harness will need to be relocated to the spare tire carrier or under side of the bumper. I added a nut/bolt and placed it to the area where the stock spare tire carrier was. It is tucked up really high in this location and you will not need the spare tire carrier anyway.

Untitled by Bobby Galeazzi, on Flickr

Also, the hitch pin location is tucked up high and hidden as well as the holes for tow chains attachment seen here:


Untitled by Bobby Galeazzi, on Flickr



Link to 4X4Labs install document:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/un2k50jn5c...stall.pdf?dl=0



Enjoy
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Last edited by Darklight; 08-04-2017 at 05:35 AM.
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Unread 04-21-2015, 10:29 PM   #2
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Very cool write up!!!

I love my bumper, and they got better later.
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Unread 04-22-2015, 07:03 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulldog View Post
Very cool write up!!!

I love my bumper, and they got better later.
Thanks Andries, with out you the connection between 4X4Labs and the 4th gen may have never been possible. It has improved over the years from the first ones made being yours and Joels.
Luke is a super cool guy and I think he can really make anything requested of him. Luke communicated everything to me about the install to the T. He made it super easy. He is some kind of Jedi Toyota guy. I have decided to post my experience in hopes to help others installs in the future


Bobby
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Unread 04-22-2015, 09:16 AM   #4
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Very cool they have a do it at home version now, I might just have to look into this...
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Unread 04-22-2015, 09:52 AM   #5
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Nice writeup.
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Unread 04-23-2015, 06:11 PM   #6
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Agreed. I will definitely be looking into this. Thank you for the write up.
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Unread 07-26-2015, 06:59 PM   #7
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This write-up was invaluable the last few days. Thank you!

I have a body lift, and Josh doesn't have a truck with one. There were some minor hiccups, but otherwise, I have to agree: he's definitely a "Jedi Toyota Guy". I'll try and get some of my hints up to keep making it easier for people down the road. (And of course: I'll have a few pictures.)
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SCS SR-8 wheels, 295/70r17 Nitto Terra Grappler G2s, LED Interior and Reverse Lights,
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Unread 07-27-2015, 04:20 AM   #8
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Adding additional info would be great. It's easier to understand everything once you have the bumper in your possession. Looking forward to pics and welcome to the family!


Bobby
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2008 Black 4X4Runner SR5 V6, Clazzio black Leather, LR UCA's ,OW Radflo 2.5"coilovers & MetalTech stage 5 LT rear, 285/75R16 KM2, Strike 6 16x8.5 -6 wheels , Demello offroad 3 hoop, 4X4Labs rear, TJM 10K winch, ATO, RCI ,BudBuilt, Stubbs sliders, A-ha diff bracket 4Crawler B/L 3/4", DynoMax , K&N , Speski barrier, sPOD, ARB CKM12, ARB locker front/rear 4.56 gears WMW roof rack
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Unread 08-25-2015, 08:31 AM   #9
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Can you post a picture from a couple of different angles? It would be great to see it as a whole

thanks
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Unread 08-25-2015, 10:16 AM   #10
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Default installed pictures

Here is some pictures of mine installed,



Untitled by Bobby Galeazzi, on Flickr


Untitled by Bobby Galeazzi, on Flickr


Untitled by Bobby Galeazzi, on Flickr

Untitled by Bobby Galeazzi, on Flickr

Untitled by Bobby Galeazzi, on Flickr



A bunch of close ups in my build thread

http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showp...&postcount=204




Bobby
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Last edited by Darklight; 08-04-2017 at 05:53 AM.
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Unread 08-25-2015, 10:34 AM   #11
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Perfect! Thanks.
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Unread 08-25-2015, 11:54 AM   #12
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That's awesome. Thank you from someone who didn't ask but appreciates it much the same.
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Unread 09-17-2015, 06:40 PM   #13
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Finally getting around to posting my little bit of help. Really though, what Darklight posted is pretty much spot on. And: if you have the bumper in hand, it really is pretty obvious (I had a short time to install before a major trip, so I'm sure I bugged him and Luke with a lot of silly questions).

I still haven't managed to get any "pretty" pictures of her... hopefully I'll finish the detailing/work I need to finish this weekend and get some. So: here goes:

For the 3 inch cut:
Don't measure from here

Measure here:


Mine was made for a body lift... So: 3 inches was not enough. Just cut until things aren't contacting, grind smooth, paint.

You do have to remove the top piece in this picture (once again: this bumper fits like a glove):


If you're willing to wait a little, paint the exposed metal. You'll appreciate it later. I also siliconed all of the random little holes to keep water out of the cabin.


Other bits of advice:
If you have a hi-lift carrier behind your tire, be careful to check clearance. This bumper is designed to keep things close to the body. I went to close it the first time and cracked a headlight lens. I simply siliconed it up because you can't really see the lights with the bumper there (granted the 295s may be the real problem here)...

I bought a cheap trailer light and t-tapped into the turn signal light to create a turn signal. Between the 3rd brake light and the pass side, I wasn't worried about brakes. However, I was immediately taking this thing and driving from Florida to Maine. I wanted a visible turn signal.
You can see it hanging off the bottom here (I'll try to get a better picture and edit this weekend):
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2004 Sport Edition 4x4 V8.
ICON 2.5 Extended Travel coilovers and 2.0 Shocks, Total Chaos UCAs, Metal Tech 3" Springs, RB 1.5 BL,
Stubbs Welding HD-SKO sliders, RCI Skids,
SCS SR-8 wheels, 295/70r17 Nitto Terra Grappler G2s, LED Interior and Reverse Lights,
More mods on the way...

Last edited by BusinessHippieRH; 09-17-2015 at 06:55 PM.
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Unread 09-18-2015, 06:42 AM   #14
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Cool, glad to see some more being installed.

Just to make sure everyone is clear, when cutting the 3" off the rear cross member you want to measure from the bottom of the frame, starting at the tow hitch bolt hole to the out side. Your picture illustrates it pretty good. I also siliconed the holes in the body with black rtv silicon.

Let's see some better pictures!

Bobby
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Unread 07-25-2017, 04:39 PM   #15
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Hey man, Photobucket put your pics on lock. I'm trying to do this install right now. Any way you can bring them back???


Quote:
Originally Posted by Darklight View Post
When you get the bumper measure the mounting holes from the inside edge of the bumper. You'll need to cut the frame at least that far in or the bumper will hit the frame when you slide it on. Measure towards the rear of the vehicle from the tow hitch holes.


Cut it 3” to the center of the first mounting hole for the stock tow hitch bolt holes or the furthest hole from the rear body mount


Picture shows inside bumper lip for reference. These line up to the tow hitch holes.






Start with removing the cross member first: I sawed from the top down, then around with a sawzall. Used a torch blade from Milwaukee






Now, with the cross member removed, measure from the rear body mount, using the two existing tow hitch holes in the bottom of the frame as the mounting points for the 2 holes in the bumper,
Measure 3” to the center of the first mounting hole for the stock tow hitch bolt holes or the furthest hole from the rear body mount mark all the way around and remove the end caps with sawzall, then clean up with a grinder. Make sure the bottom and inside rail are clean since those are the bumper mounting surfaces.


We don’t need these anymore:



end caps


Again a sawzall was used to make this cut, straight down, Also need to hit the tire carrier members edges with a grinder cutoff wheel. Seen in the far left side area trimming done on the tire carrier mount.





Then clean up with a grinder. Make sure the bottom and inside rail are clean since those are the bumper mounting surfaces. Flapdisk 40 grit is what I used. Then hit bare metal areas with some paint.






All of the mounting holes are in the bumper, 3 on the bottom, 2 on the sides. I didn’t take any pictures of the plates but they’re beefy. You have to mount the bumper using the 2 per side existing tow hitch holes that are on the bottom of the frame. Mount the bumper temporarily.

Then using the bumper as a template, mark and drill the other mounting holes, two side holes, (there are already two holes on the frame but hey need to be enlarged to ˝” or slightly larger).

One more hole on the bottom, (this will be a new one that needs to be marked and drilled). Make them a tad larger than ˝”.

Once those holes are drilled with the bumper in position you can pull it off, insert the BEEFY nut plates into position inside the frame and then re-install the bumper.

The good thing is there are inspection holes in the frame you can see through and poke something in there to adjust the nut plates if needed. You will see once you are in there installing them

Install the supplied heavy duty hardware into the captive nut inserted plates, the bumper will connect to the inner plates so it will sandwich the frame. Use an alignment bar or punch to align the captive nuts if need be.






The license plate holder needs to be bolted to the gas can holder or attachment carrier on swing arm. You will also need to run a power/ground wire to the tail light for power. The plate holder uses bolt lights to illuminate the license plate, an old cell phone charger works great for wiring, the coil type. I used a hole under the taillight for access. It has a rubber plug that seals it up pretty good.





Routed wire:





The green wire with silver dots on the brake tail light is what you want to tap into. It is the park lights. You can solder or use a t tap or a posi-tap connector. You can pull ground off the bolt light on the body.




Installed on ladder attachment:




The stock tow harness will need to be relocated to the spare tire carrier or under side of the bumper. I added a nut/bolt and placed it to the area where the stock spare tire carrier was. It is tucked up really high in this location and you will not need the spare tire carrier anyway.





Also, the hitch pin location is tucked up high and hidden as well as the holes for tow chains attachment seen here:






Enjoy
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Unread 07-25-2017, 06:24 PM   #16
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Yeah I will work on it but right now I dont have a source for hosting pics. Send me a pm with email and I can send you some info or pics. I know Luke from 4X4LABS had directions that I helped put together. He should have included them with you bumper.
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Unread 07-25-2017, 07:14 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darklight View Post
Yeah I will work on it but right now I dont have a source for hosting pics. Send me a pm with email and I can send you some info or pics. I know Luke from 4X4LABS had directions that I helped put together. He should have included them with you bumper.
Thanks. I used the other members photo to get the cut 3" off the hole.

I'm building a 'weld it yourself' bumper, so my install will be much more intensive. #yay
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Unread 07-25-2017, 08:16 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darklight View Post
Yeah I will work on it but right now I dont have a source for hosting pics.
Flickr is free. Has a share link for BBS.
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Unread 07-25-2017, 08:18 PM   #19
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Example of a Flickr hosted photo...behold my 4x4 Labs rear bumper with drop-down cutting board and table...

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Unread 07-25-2017, 08:25 PM   #20
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A few more. Sawing off the ends of the frame was a bit unnerving...



Installed...

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