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Unread 07-12-2007, 05:58 PM   #1
JohnD
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Thumbs up Nice Battery Isolator!!

found this Looks pretty sweet! ANyone have any thoughts on these?? I planning on ordering one. or not...



http://www.4x4store.com.au/Piranha-D...pr-101106.html


the last component for my dual battery setup.


peace
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Unread 07-12-2007, 06:41 PM   #2
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looks very fancy and very expensive. Personally I think this is fine:

SurePower

Buy it here

Take the money you save and buy something that is more fun than a battery isolator.
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Unread 07-12-2007, 08:15 PM   #3
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SOme of the fncy systems require you to monkey with the alternator wiring and main wiring harnass. A simple system that just attaches to the main wiring is much better and simpler. Taht way if it fails you tend to eb fine with the main wiriing.

Besides a solenoid system with the right management electronics has all the functionality most folks would need.
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Unread 07-12-2007, 10:34 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnD View Post
found this Looks pretty sweet! ANyone have any thoughts on these?? I planning on ordering one. or not...



http://www.4x4store.com.au/Piranha-D...pr-101106.html


the last component for my dual battery setup.


peace

Wow! $410???

That would buy a 200 Amp solenoid, Optima or Odyssey deep cycle battery, battery tray, wires and switches, maybe with some change left over.

Search through the forum and look at how some of us built our systems.
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Unread 07-13-2007, 10:05 AM   #5
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Dam it pays to have friends, woot thanks fellas.... ok so thats overkill rgr.


for 410 though you get all hardware & a battery monitor thingy!LOL
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Last edited by JohnD; 07-13-2007 at 10:08 AM.
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Unread 07-25-2007, 12:14 AM   #6
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That's an Australian 4x4 store. So, Mark, what is $410 in OZ money equate to in US dollars?

I don't know what the exchange rate is.
Or, do they advertise in the US and show in US $$$??
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Unread 07-25-2007, 12:31 AM   #7
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That's an Australian 4x4 store. So, Mark, what is $410 in OZ money equate to in US dollars?

AUS$360 approx
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Unread 07-25-2007, 01:02 AM   #8
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Quote:
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AUS$360 approx


Thanks..... So, it's still expensive!!
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Unread 07-25-2007, 05:33 AM   #9
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Just thought I'd add this, I'm sure most of you have already seen his stuff.

http://www.12voltguy.com/dualbattkit.htm
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Unread 07-28-2007, 07:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vegas Runner View Post
looks very fancy and very expensive. Personally I think this is fine:

SurePower

Buy it here

Take the money you save and buy something that is more fun than a battery isolator.


Have you installed this? if so I need some advice on the automatic install version(no light). Can I go directly to Starter wire(starter basically)or thru the main lead out of main battery.Closes to fuse box>. thanks for any help..

peace
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Unread 07-28-2007, 08:33 PM   #11
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Have you installed this? if so I need some advice on the automatic install version(no light). Can I go directly to Starter wire(starter basically)or thru the main lead out of main battery.Closes to fuse box>. thanks for any help..

peace
I have installed this, however my installation was very complicated because I put in a bunch of other goodies like a 24volt system, an amperage meter, etc. see the link below:
my dual battery system writeup
I would reccomend not focusing to much on my installation as it will only serve to confuse you. Instead focus on the PDF instruction set for the sure power isolator



Regarding your second question. I assume you are referring to step 8 in the instructions PDF. If you are then you have two choices:
1.) Manual operation - connect the brown wire to the battery and put a switch in thie circuit so you can "force" the batteries is parallel whenever you want.

2.) Automatic operation - connect the brown wire to your ignition "start position" so your batteries are always "forced" into parallel when you start you car. You may be able to go to the "starter cable" as you suggest. I do not see a problem with that but, I am not an expert and there may be a reason they instruct you to go to the "start postion" ignition wire. (e.g. there may be a delay between going to the "start" position of the ignition that would allow the 2nd battery to come on line (relay to close) befor the starter starts cranking) dunno.
----


NOTE 1: the blue wire is for the indicator light, and can be used or not used and it will come on when the batteries are "forced" in parallel under either "manual operation" or "automatic operation" described above. I did not enable this on my set up.

NOTE 2: I hooked mine up for "Manual operation" because I used a deep cell battery for my second battery and do not want to subject it to the high current draw loads of starting a car except in an emergency "jump start" situation.

NOTE 3: I also reccomend that you re-read the sure power instruction PDF until you really understand what is happening. It will give you more confidence and gratification when you go to hook up the system.

NOTE 4: It is an easy install.
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Last edited by Vegas Runner; 07-28-2007 at 08:42 PM.
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Unread 07-28-2007, 10:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vegas Runner View Post
I have installed this, however my installation was very complicated because I put in a bunch of other goodies like a 24volt system, an amperage meter, etc. see the link below:
my dual battery system writeup
I would reccomend not focusing to much on my installation as it will only serve to confuse you. Instead focus on the PDF instruction set for the sure power isolator



Regarding your second question. I assume you are referring to step 8 in the instructions PDF. If you are then you have two choices:
1.) Manual operation - connect the brown wire to the battery and put a switch in thie circuit so you can "force" the batteries is parallel whenever you want.

2.) Automatic operation - connect the brown wire to your ignition "start position" so your batteries are always "forced" into parallel when you start you car. You may be able to go to the "starter cable" as you suggest. I do not see a problem with that but, I am not an expert and there may be a reason they instruct you to go to the "start postion" ignition wire. (e.g. there may be a delay between going to the "start" position of the ignition that would allow the 2nd battery to come on line (relay to close) befor the starter starts cranking) dunno.
----


NOTE 1: the blue wire is for the indicator light, and can be used or not used and it will come on when the batteries are "forced" in parallel under either "manual operation" or "automatic operation" described above. I did not enable this on my set up.

NOTE 2: I hooked mine up for "Manual operation" because I used a deep cell battery for my second battery and do not want to subject it to the high current draw loads of starting a car except in an emergency "jump start" situation.

NOTE 3: I also reccomend that you re-read the sure power instruction PDF until you really understand what is happening. It will give you more confidence and gratification when you go to hook up the system.

NOTE 4: It is an easy install.

You are the MAN! exactly what I needed to hear. Im running a deep cycle as well so note 2 has answerd all my questions! LOL. that little boost yep..

Oh cool set-up by the way..

peace
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Unread 07-29-2007, 07:18 AM   #13
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Vegas, I used one of these in my boat, is it the same type (function) of isolator you used?
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Unread 07-29-2007, 09:24 AM   #14
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I do not understand your question.
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Unread 07-29-2007, 09:56 AM   #15
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Sorry, I forgot to add the link:

http://www.stingerelectronics.com/pr....asp?strID=340

I have one of these and wanted to know if you thought it was a good option or if I should look for something else. I just want to add another battery, primarily for the winch
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Unread 07-29-2007, 10:08 AM   #16
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Quote:
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Sorry, I forgot to add the link:

http://www.stingerelectronics.com/pr....asp?strID=340

I have one of these and wanted to know if you thought it was a good option or if I should look for something else. I just want to add another battery, primarily for the winch

That will work.

The difference between the stinger and sure power is the stinger is just a big relay that is activated with your ignition pulling your batteries into parallel, the sure power has some circuitry with logic to only bring the second battery into parallel only when the primary battery reaches 13.2 v (when it is charging) and drops the second battery off when the voltage drops below 12.4 v. This serves to protect the primary battery.

I prefer the sure power for this reason but the stinger will work
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Unread 07-29-2007, 11:14 AM   #17
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The price of the sure power seems reasonable, is it difficult to wire it so I could play my stereo with the engine off and save the start battery. I was a little leary of trying this but it would be nice to have it set up that way. My amps are big and I get a pretty could current draw from them. I have actually drained my battery once beyond having starting power.
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Unread 07-29-2007, 11:26 AM   #18
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Wiring your stereo to run off your aux battery is independent of the type of battery seperator you choose. All you need to do is use you aux battery as the power source for your stereo. Be sure that you fuse it is appropriate.
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Unread 07-29-2007, 11:36 AM   #19
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sorry if this is a stupid question, but I need to run it as the 12v const. and switched for the headunit and amps right?
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Unread 07-29-2007, 11:43 AM   #20
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Quote:
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sorry if this is a stupid question, but I need to run it as the 12v const. and switched for the headunit and amps right?
I cannot answer the specifics of your question. I have no experience wiring stereos, amps, etc.
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