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Old 12-30-2011, 08:09 PM   #1
speicte
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Default Broken actuator after o-ring fix?

Well, I tried to fix the leaking o-ring on the actuator based on the IH8MUD post (http://forum.ih8mud.com/120-series-t...case-leak.html) where they were able to remove the actuator separately without dropping the transfer case. Put it back together and started the truck. Tried 4LO and all hell has broken loose! It wouldn't switch back to 4HI and then when it did, it made horrible grinding noises and all the lights came on: check engine light, VSC TRC, TRC OFF. I cleared the check engine light and it was code P1782 which sounds like "transfer case actuary jammed'. Not sure what to do now...

I am going to try and 'zero point calibrate' everything, but the transfer case makes a horrible grinding noise gong between 4LO and 4HI so even dong the calibration isn't going to fix it right now.

I am going to try and take the actuator off again and reattach it, but I think it is broken. I may need to get a new transfer case...

Beware of 'easy' fixes....
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Old 12-30-2011, 10:38 PM   #2
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Default Working again, but not finished yet.

So, I went back out a took the actuator apart again. It came off pretty much the same as it came off the first time.

I re-inspected it and one of the oil seals that go around the shafts from the transfer case seems to be jacked up now. Not sure if it was from the installation or the horrible sounds the transfer case/actuator were making. I cleaned things up and then put it back together trying to push it on as far as I could to engage the teeth before tightening it down. I simply could not get it on any further. So, I then tightened down the passenger side bolts first hoping that it would help the teeth engage at an angle as I had previously tightened all the bolts equally and progressively to seat the actuator evenly.

Also to note, there is a vacuum hose attached to the actuator from the tranny or transfer case that was cracked on the end and split. It was replaced the first time I put the actuator on. Be sure you check yours carefully if you change your seals.

After getting everything back together (the whole procedure is just 3 12mm bolts, the vacuum hose and electrical connection). I rolled out into the street to try the 'Zero Point Calibration'. Thanks to this post (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/proble...libration.html and the TSB (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/attach...-dtc-c1203.pdf I used speaker wire and did the calibration. Thankfully, all the lights went off and I was finally driving in 4HI normally.

Now for the true test... I came to a stop and switched to 4LO (I have a V8). It blinked once, clunked and shifted in. No different from before, but switching back was were all hell broke loose last time. I also switched the diff lock on and off multiple times as I have heard that can trigger weird things too. So, I came to a stop, went to neutral, switched to 4HI and it immediately switched WITHOUT the beeping flashing with no grinding/clunking or lerching! YEAH!

I then switched it back 4LO and 4HI a couple of times without issues!

So, what I learned...
-I don't think I need a new transfer case. I just don't think the actuator was completely engaged the first time.

-The noise I heard was definitely grinding from the actuator gears and transfer case shafts. Something wasn't lined up right.

-The oil seals are definitely jacked and I need new oil seals. Now I need to track them down since the stealership doesn't sell them. When I went to buy the o-ring replacement, the service guy was 'certain' the whole actuator needed replacement at $1k for parts alone.

-I will be taking it off again to change those oil seals around the shafts...ugh...

-I will be tightening the bolts asymetrically as that seemed to be the only thing I did differently.

Sorry this is so long-winded, but maybe it will help someone else. Ahh... the joys of working on trucks....
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Old 12-31-2011, 08:51 AM   #3
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Definitely "THANK YOU" for sharing your experience, warts and all.

Your pointers will help others when they face the same leak issue.
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Old 12-31-2011, 10:09 AM   #4
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Thx for the feedback, will definitely be useful for other folks in the future.
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Old 12-31-2011, 12:51 PM   #5
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I will take some pics when I pull off the actuator again to show the oil seal issue. Again, I believe the oil seal issue was from wiggling the actuator on installation and having the teeth on the shaft bugger it up.

I will be ordering 2 oil seals 23mmx15mmx7mm from this site: RocketSeals and keep you posted.

Be very carefull putting the actuator back on the shafts...
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Old 01-01-2012, 02:56 PM   #6
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Please do post pix when you get a chance. I have a spare transfer case that just needs the actuator seal replaced (although I bought I whole OEM seal kit) so would like to see whats up.
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Old 01-01-2012, 04:48 PM   #7
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I have always been skeptical of removing the actuator without splitting the case open. Post #9 details how to do this, but further down post #18 details why this method is not the best idea.

Another thing to add, is that if you install the actuator improperly or it engages while improperly installed, it has a very good chance of bending the shift rod inside of the case and causing even more issues.

I'm all up for trying to make a job easier, but sometimes these shortcuts can cause more harm than good.

Good luck and I hope you fix the issue without too much more trouble.
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Old 05-09-2012, 06:33 PM   #8
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UPDATE:

It totally broke!#@(@(!!

I just let my wife drive it until all the fluid leaked out and all the VSC/Traction control lights came on and parked it.

I have a used transfer case waiting to install....

What a pain in the A$$ to have to replace the WHOLE transfer case for a 50 cent O-ring....

I will selling it this fall...
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:55 AM   #9
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Default used transfer case installed

Found a used transfer case and checked to be sure no leaks before I installed it.

Removal and installation of TCase is actually pretty easy, though cumbersome because of the weight. I would recommend two people to help lift and get it into position. I also built a little platform of wood to help stabilize it on the floor jack. I didn't feel like spending more money on a tranny jack.

It is just simple bolts to drop the transfer case.

It has been in the truck for a few months now and no leak.

What a pain for just a simple o-ring...
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