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Unread 12-02-2012, 08:22 AM   #1
norseman
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Default Norseman's 08 Build

Here is my build. I have a 2008 limited 4runner I bought with 13K miles on it and it is my second 4runner. I owned a 3rd gen before this and unfortunately it was totaled in a really bad accident... worse than mikestang’s. I have had the 08 for a number of years and have recently started to mod it out. Most of my mods are listed in my signature. The plan is to make his truck into an overland vehicle for trips all over the US and Canadia.

I want to thank all the members of T120 for their posts and PM’s with me as this would not have been possible without all of your help! I will be updating/editing the posts with more and more details as time allows. Your critiques will be much appreciated.

Only picture I have of it bone stock at a wind farm in Tx. But who cares they all look the same bone stock.



Next best picture of it close to stock. Runner boards are removed though.




Current Build

















Modifications:

Suspension:
- 1.25" spidertrax wheel spacers
- 285/65r18 toyo open country AT II
- fuel offroad trophy matte anthracite w/ black ring wheels
- 1.5" 4crawler bl
- body mount chop
- icon billet uniball uca's
- 2.5 radflo extended travel front coilovers
- 2.5 radflo extended travel rear shocks
- all pro 3.5 rear coils
- metal tech offset rear axle lower links
- metal tech rear axle upper links

Protection:
- demello offroad front bumper
- budbuilt front skid plate
- total chaos lower link skid plates
- ss brake lines
- tail pipe chop

Electronics:
- odyssey 34R-PC1500
- odyssey PC1200 w/ odyssey hold down tray
- ibs dual battery microprocessor
- 90w overland solar kit
- piaa led fog lights
- led exterior lights
- led interior lights
- oem auxillary light switches
- rigid industries a-series led lights for cargo door
- hella supertones
- bluetooth steering wheel buttons
- blue sea dual usb port w/ rigid industries rocker switch
- blue sea st blade fuse block

Outfitting:
- via heavy duty on board air
- on-board 5lbs propane w/ at overland bracket
- eezi-awn 2000 series awning
- national luna twin fridge/freezer
- alu box set
- at overland custom cargo platform w/ stove/fridge/sink slide
- rotopax water pack
- speski offroad cargo barrier
- hitch safe
- console vault
- halguard fire extinguisher w/ drake automotive quick release
- garvin wilderness sport series rack
- debadged
- weathertech liners

Future Modifications:
- custom roof rack
- rotor/pad/caliper upgrade
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'08 ltd v6 4x4|mica gray|1.25" spidertrax|285/65r18 toyo at II | fuel trophy wheels|1.5" 4crawler bl|body mount chop|icon billet uca|2.5 radflo front coilovers + rear shocks|all pro 3.5 rear coils|mt rear links|ss brake lines|dual odyssey w/ ibs|led in/exterior lights|hella supertones|demello front bumper|viair oba|weathertech liners. Das bauen

Last edited by norseman; 07-10-2016 at 06:32 AM.
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Unread 12-02-2012, 08:24 AM   #2
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Default Interior LED Conversion

I switched out the interior incandescent bulbs with LED’s. I purchased them through <VLEDs.com>. I switched out the dome lights, map lights, vanity lights, glove box lights and door lights with 6K color temperature. I used Top4Runners.com as a guide for the conversion. The hardest part about all of this was figuring out the socket type, such as 921, 3175 194. I am sure there is a logical explanation to the numbering system but it seems ridiculous. I got a lot of good info off of <top4runners.com> that helped with this modification.

Cargo + Dome Light (VLED's #: DIY_6_BC_W_6K)



Front Door Light (VLED's #: 194_4_RB_W_6K)



Rear Door Light (VLED's #: 194_4_RB_W_6K)



Map Light (VLEDs #: DIY_BASE_3175)



Vanity Light (VLED's #: VANITY_W_6K)

Coming soon

Glove Box Light (VLED's #: 74_3_W_6K)

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'08 ltd v6 4x4|mica gray|1.25" spidertrax|285/65r18 toyo at II | fuel trophy wheels|1.5" 4crawler bl|body mount chop|icon billet uca|2.5 radflo front coilovers + rear shocks|all pro 3.5 rear coils|mt rear links|ss brake lines|dual odyssey w/ ibs|led in/exterior lights|hella supertones|demello front bumper|viair oba|weathertech liners. Das bauen

Last edited by norseman; 02-23-2013 at 12:12 PM.
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Unread 12-02-2012, 08:26 AM   #3
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Default Body Lift

I purchased a 1.5 inch 4crawler body lift with radiator drop brackets and a steering shaft spacer.

Before




After


4Crawler Kit




Cargo Access



Rear Seating Access



Front Seating Access




Engine Bay Access (in front of the battery)



HD Hardware comparison to OEM



Lifting the Body off of the frame



Steering Spacer Installed

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'08 ltd v6 4x4|mica gray|1.25" spidertrax|285/65r18 toyo at II | fuel trophy wheels|1.5" 4crawler bl|body mount chop|icon billet uca|2.5 radflo front coilovers + rear shocks|all pro 3.5 rear coils|mt rear links|ss brake lines|dual odyssey w/ ibs|led in/exterior lights|hella supertones|demello front bumper|viair oba|weathertech liners. Das bauen

Last edited by norseman; 12-04-2012 at 06:10 PM.
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Unread 12-02-2012, 08:28 AM   #4
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Default Hella Supertones Horns

I was able to get my hands on a set of Hella Supertones horns for free. They are much louder, have a euro sound to them and look pretty good through the grill. Once a get a Satoshi grill like DawgRunner it will look really good. I had originally intended to use heat shrink but the spool I bought was too small in diameter so I used electrical tape instead. I will have to go back and switch this out later on.

I did not use the relay that was included with the Hella Supertones. I have seen this being done on other forums with success. But the problem is you have to mount it to the body and there are wires running everywhere.



Stock horns – I removed the plastic radiator cover and unscrewed the bolts that held the stock horns onto the body. I then unclipped the connectors/wires from the stock horns.



Horns Removed – I stripped away the wires from the loom.



Horns Removed – I stripped away the sheath.




Hella Supertones Try-in – I then loosely bolted them into stock holes to see how they would look. I also cut away the auxiliary 18 AWG stock wire that supplied the second stock horn with current and stripped back 0.75 inches of plastic wire sheath.



Ground Wiring – I then fabricated a set of ground wires. I connected one end with a female disconnect and the other end with a ring terminal. I placed the female disconnect on the Hella Supertone and then grounded the wire onto the body where I bolted the horn on. This made it look pretty clean without tones of wires running all over the place.



Ground wiring – My ground wires looked very similar to this but were placed at the top of the bracket not the bottom as seen here.




Positive Wiring – I then cut a 32 inch positive 14 AWG wire and placed one female quick disconnect on it. I then spliced in the stock 18 AWG wire into the other end of the female quick disconnect.




Positive Wire Routing – I then removed the wire loom from in front of the radiator and ran the spliced 14 AWG wire then the loom to the second Hella Supertone. You can see the 32 inches positive 14 AWG wire in the right side of the picture before it was run through the loom.



Grande Finale – Once the 14 AWG wire was spliced into the second horn, the 14 AWG ground wires connected, and the wire loom placed back in its original spot I returned the radiator cover to its rightful spot.


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'08 ltd v6 4x4|mica gray|1.25" spidertrax|285/65r18 toyo at II | fuel trophy wheels|1.5" 4crawler bl|body mount chop|icon billet uca|2.5 radflo front coilovers + rear shocks|all pro 3.5 rear coils|mt rear links|ss brake lines|dual odyssey w/ ibs|led in/exterior lights|hella supertones|demello front bumper|viair oba|weathertech liners. Das bauen

Last edited by norseman; 12-02-2012 at 08:33 AM.
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Unread 12-02-2012, 01:36 PM   #5
t4rman
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Nice clean build.
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Unread 12-15-2012, 09:30 AM   #6
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Default Suspension Lift Install

The next big project was the installing the suspension lift. This was probably the most involved modification I will do to the truck.

Here are all the components



Here is the before picture. The 4Runner has a 4Crawler 1.5 inch body lift on it.



Next, I removed all the XREAS hard lines, brackets and reservoirs. It ended up being an oily mess for me because I unbolted the wrong bolts from the OEM shocks.



Then came removing the skid plate and front sway bar brackets from the frame. I then removed the end links from the spindle.



After removing the 3 upper bolts and the lower bolt from the OEM shock it was on to removing the OEM upper control arm (UCA). After removing the cotter pin and loosening the castle nut I popped the UCA off of the spindle with a pitman arm puller.



There is a big difference between the OEM shock and the Radflo 2.5 front coilover (CO). I ordered mine through Metal Tech 4x4 and they mentioned they were had and “extended travel” pair which allows for 3/4 of an inch more travel.



Next, came the install of the Camburg Uniball UCA’s. This was a very easy portion of the upgrade but one of the most frustrating. About a week after the install a horrible and nerve racking grinding noise started. See other posts. After 2 weeks of back and forth with Camburg I had my mechanic disassemble the uniball, lube everything up and reassemble it. Since the relubing the uniball it has been fine. But why it came from the factory like that I have no idea.



Everything is now in place with the front sway bar spacers in place and torqued down to factory and/or manufacture’s specifications.



Here’s what it looked like with the front completed. Now on to the rear suspension.



Removed the rear shocks. Again, these were from Metal Tech 4x4 and are an “extended travel” edition with 3/4 of an inch longer travel. I had difficulty installing them until another 120 member suggested I compress the shock with a floor jack to attach it to the axle.



I supported the rear axle with the floor jack after placing jack stands under the frame. I articulated the rear axle with a bottle jack to remove the rear coils. I installed All Pro 3.5 rear coils.



I purchased an Armstrong (34-307) 2 inch to 4 3/4 inch spanner wrench to adjust the front CO’s.







Here is the final result. Next are the new tires and wheels spacers.


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'08 ltd v6 4x4|mica gray|1.25" spidertrax|285/65r18 toyo at II | fuel trophy wheels|1.5" 4crawler bl|body mount chop|icon billet uca|2.5 radflo front coilovers + rear shocks|all pro 3.5 rear coils|mt rear links|ss brake lines|dual odyssey w/ ibs|led in/exterior lights|hella supertones|demello front bumper|viair oba|weathertech liners. Das bauen
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Unread 12-15-2012, 09:31 AM   #7
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Default New Tires and Wheel Spacers

Once the suspension lift was install it was time to get rid of the bald factory Michelins. They had 50K miles on them and were dangerously bald. The new Nitto Terra Grapples are LT275/70R18 and are a much deserved improvement.

Front On Shot



Tread shot



Angle Shot



Wheel spacers installed



Alignment Specs



Final result of suspension lift and new tires

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'08 ltd v6 4x4|mica gray|1.25" spidertrax|285/65r18 toyo at II | fuel trophy wheels|1.5" 4crawler bl|body mount chop|icon billet uca|2.5 radflo front coilovers + rear shocks|all pro 3.5 rear coils|mt rear links|ss brake lines|dual odyssey w/ ibs|led in/exterior lights|hella supertones|demello front bumper|viair oba|weathertech liners. Das bauen
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Unread 12-15-2012, 09:34 AM   #8
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Default Front Bumper Trimming

After getting the new tires on there was a lot of rubbing on the front bumper and the body mounts. So I trimmed some the plastic off with a box cutter. I will need to head over to my custom fabrication shop for the body mount chop next. Here is how close the tires were the factory plastic bumper. I can’t wait to get a Shrockworks on.



Here is how much I trimmed off the front bumper.



I then drilled new holes in the fender liner and pushed it forward.



Reattached the fender liner to the plastic bumper with the factory OEM clips



Here is how bad the Terra Grapplers are rubbing on the body mount. I REALLY need to get this thing chopped.

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'08 ltd v6 4x4|mica gray|1.25" spidertrax|285/65r18 toyo at II | fuel trophy wheels|1.5" 4crawler bl|body mount chop|icon billet uca|2.5 radflo front coilovers + rear shocks|all pro 3.5 rear coils|mt rear links|ss brake lines|dual odyssey w/ ibs|led in/exterior lights|hella supertones|demello front bumper|viair oba|weathertech liners. Das bauen

Last edited by norseman; 12-16-2012 at 08:32 AM.
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Unread 12-15-2012, 09:36 AM   #9
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Default Stainless Steel Brake Lines

I purchased a front and rear set of Slee Off-Road SS brake lines. I was really worried about this install but it one of the easier things to do. All you do is crack the hard line bolt, quickly thread the SS brake line with washer onto the hard line bolt. The fluid will slowly drip out of the hard line. Once finger tight install the C-clamp and torque it down. My mechanic and I also flushed the brake lines while we were at it. Filled the brake fluid reservoir.



Next, the front wheels came off and the 4Runner was put up on the lift.



Here is the Slee set with C-clamps. Thin washer came with the set but they are not pictured.



OEM rear rubber brake lines by the filler neck of the gas tank.



One rear SS brake line installed. There is a drastic difference in the length of the OEM vs. the Slee.



Both rear Slee SS brake lines installed.



Now onto the front.



Front installed.


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'08 ltd v6 4x4|mica gray|1.25" spidertrax|285/65r18 toyo at II | fuel trophy wheels|1.5" 4crawler bl|body mount chop|icon billet uca|2.5 radflo front coilovers + rear shocks|all pro 3.5 rear coils|mt rear links|ss brake lines|dual odyssey w/ ibs|led in/exterior lights|hella supertones|demello front bumper|viair oba|weathertech liners. Das bauen
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Unread 12-15-2012, 10:47 AM   #10
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Great build - it's exactly what I'd set my rig up if I had the balls to do so. That's some serious lift.
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Unread 12-17-2012, 04:24 PM   #11
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Default Body Mount Chop

I got the body mounts chopped today. I had Buckeye Performance here in WNC do it. Now that they are chopped I realized I am rubbing on the rear portion of the fender under full compression. This seems like the never ending project. Well I now know what I am doing this weekend... more plastic trimming on the rear fender. Hopefully, I won't get down to the pinch weld and need a BFH and other posts readily advise.

Driver's Side Front



Under the Body Mount - Driver's Side



Driver's Side Back



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'08 ltd v6 4x4|mica gray|1.25" spidertrax|285/65r18 toyo at II | fuel trophy wheels|1.5" 4crawler bl|body mount chop|icon billet uca|2.5 radflo front coilovers + rear shocks|all pro 3.5 rear coils|mt rear links|ss brake lines|dual odyssey w/ ibs|led in/exterior lights|hella supertones|demello front bumper|viair oba|weathertech liners. Das bauen
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Unread 12-17-2012, 05:24 PM   #12
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That's an odd chop, typically you want to cut off the whole end and box it, not just remove a sliver. Good build thread.
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Unread 12-17-2012, 07:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikestang View Post
That's an odd chop, typically you want to cut off the whole end and box it, not just remove a sliver. Good build thread.
Funny you would comment on that, of all the body mount chops I have seen on 120 this makes the most sense. Cutting it back so it is in alignment with the wheel well.
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Unread 12-18-2012, 06:11 AM   #14
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Yeah, I think this type kinda makes the most sense. Because it takes away the least amount of the body mount but still allows for adequate clearance of the 33's. I followed crozhawks thread. And in his words, "don't over think it."

http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showt...ody+mount+chop
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'08 ltd v6 4x4|mica gray|1.25" spidertrax|285/65r18 toyo at II | fuel trophy wheels|1.5" 4crawler bl|body mount chop|icon billet uca|2.5 radflo front coilovers + rear shocks|all pro 3.5 rear coils|mt rear links|ss brake lines|dual odyssey w/ ibs|led in/exterior lights|hella supertones|demello front bumper|viair oba|weathertech liners. Das bauen
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Unread 12-18-2012, 12:17 PM   #15
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Nice build !

I cut my body mount like that also. The tire does not rub on the end or back of the body mount; just the front corner.

I also don't see any point in welding a cap over the cut material. It does not add enough strength to warrant the extra work.
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Unread 12-18-2012, 08:21 PM   #16
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Great build, you have a nice truck coming together.

Quote:
Originally Posted by UnionJack View Post
Funny you would comment on that, of all the body mount chops I have seen on 120 this makes the most sense. Cutting it back so it is in alignment with the wheel well.
Agreed on just the sliver, I cut a pretty big chunk and it seems excessive currently with 285's, but now I am ready for 35's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Photog View Post
I also don't see any point in welding a cap over the cut material. It does not add enough strength to warrant the extra work.
I think boxing is a great idea, even if it does not add any structural strength (I believe it does however, but to each their own). Leaving sharp metal exposed seems to pose an unnecessary risk, even if only a small one. If the caster got knocked out of whack and brought the tire in contact with the mount, it would shed it instantly if not boxed.
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Unread 12-18-2012, 09:12 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wishbone View Post
I think boxing is a great idea, even if it does not add any structural strength (I believe it does however, but to each their own). Leaving sharp metal exposed seems to pose an unnecessary risk, even if only a small one. If the caster got knocked out of whack and brought the tire in contact with the mount, it would shed it instantly if not boxed.
And more importantly it looks more pretty
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Unread 12-23-2012, 04:42 PM   #18
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Default Articulation + Adventures

Now that I had the body mounts chopped I needed to see how this thing worked. I was able to get the 4Runner out in the Pisgah NF this weekend and play around a bit.






Rear Passenger Side Tire Stuffed






Rear Driver Side Tire Stuffed



Rear Driver Side Tire Stuffed – Close Up. I am going to have to trim the rear plastic bumper now.



Never thought I would run across this road.



Good shots of Looking Glass Rock




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'08 ltd v6 4x4|mica gray|1.25" spidertrax|285/65r18 toyo at II | fuel trophy wheels|1.5" 4crawler bl|body mount chop|icon billet uca|2.5 radflo front coilovers + rear shocks|all pro 3.5 rear coils|mt rear links|ss brake lines|dual odyssey w/ ibs|led in/exterior lights|hella supertones|demello front bumper|viair oba|weathertech liners. Das bauen
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Unread 12-23-2012, 08:29 PM   #19
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This is a great looking build so far. One question. If you didn't have the 1.5" BL, do you think you would still need the extended rear brake lines?

Okay make that two questions.....what rear links for your sway bar are you using? My plan is to disconnect the front but just spent $160 or so at WabFab and then properly found all the threads about WabFab's terrible service....so now I need to source the parts.
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Unread 12-24-2012, 06:55 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by got556 View Post
This is a great looking build so far. One question. If you didn't have the 1.5" BL, do you think you would still need the extended rear brake lines?

Okay make that two questions.....what rear links for your sway bar are you using? My plan is to disconnect the front but just spent $160 or so at WabFab and then properly found all the threads about WabFab's terrible service....so now I need to source the parts.
Got556, the SS lines were installed for their beefiness, not length. You could easily get away with rear brake line relocation bracket seen here;

http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9626

I have an extra one, never used or installed, if you want it. The rear bake lines are attached to the frame not the body... so a BL would not really effect the need or lack there of for SS lines or a relocation bracket. Its the suspension lift that effects this.

To address the rear sway bar and end links, I completed removed both and have been running without them for about month now. I do feel that the rear end is "bouncy" and takes a couple oscillations before it stabilizes, on road. I do have plans, when $ permits, to purchase these. I also have Moog thermoplastic bushing I will be installing as well.

http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showp...&postcount=311

Dirty Parts Rear End Links
http://www.dirtyparts.com/store/deta...INKS/pid-83210

OR

WabFab Rear End Links
http://www.wabfab.org/1995.5-2004-Ta...ypage.tpl.html

AND

Addco Front and Rear Sway Bars
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ac...media?rtype=10
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aco-2301
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'08 ltd v6 4x4|mica gray|1.25" spidertrax|285/65r18 toyo at II | fuel trophy wheels|1.5" 4crawler bl|body mount chop|icon billet uca|2.5 radflo front coilovers + rear shocks|all pro 3.5 rear coils|mt rear links|ss brake lines|dual odyssey w/ ibs|led in/exterior lights|hella supertones|demello front bumper|viair oba|weathertech liners. Das bauen
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