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Unread 11-19-2013, 05:51 PM   #1
Mike S.
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Default CV Joint Replacement Info

Just some possibly helpful info to complement what I’ve already found on this site plus some others:

Background: Both inner CV boots were split on my 2004 4Runner SR5 4X4. I choose to get the Toyota boot kit (inner and outer) and remove the CV’s, inspect and rebuild w/ new boots….vs install new CV’s. I broke the ABS wheel speed sensor (WSS) and so I have some info I can offer on this item....DO NOT REMOVE THE ABS SENSOR FROM THE KNUCKLE AS THE FSM SAYs TO DO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'll explain more later.

CV Comments:

Toyota OEM Boot kit 04427-60140 is very good and right priced…$40 msrp….better and cheaper than getting aftermarket boots, clamps, and grease. Get the kit w/ both inner and outer boots vs. the $30 msrp kit with just the inner…cheap adder to get both up to new.

Repacking, or more accurately, removing the old grease and cleaning is a rather messy and sloppy job like others warned, especially if you want to do a very thorough job of removing most all the old grease. I worked on some large pieces of clean cardboard and used lots of rags and paperr towels…hard to have too many rags. Used 3 or 4 pairs of nitrile gloves. This is the first time I ever removed and replaced cv boots….it took me a close to 3 hours to disassemble, clean, regrease, reassemble, and crimp. I have modest amateur skills. I was pretty fussy with cleaning, especially on the inners with the torn boots that potentially had grimy grease. I’d say someone with real skills and experience could do both in an hour. Half of that if you just crudely wiped away the old grease and didn’t care about getting most all of it out.

On the new kit, 1 boot has bend over and cinch clamps. No special tool needed. The other has crimped clamps. Crimping the clamps on requires aftermarket CV clamp pliers (cheap $25 - $30…professional $75 - $100) or the Toyota tool SST 09521-24010 ($200). I read the $25 - $30 aftermarket clamp pliers generally are challenged or unable to create the required crimp compression the FSM identifies (1/32” gap). If you are real cheap, have good hand skills, have several tools (vise, hacksaw, dremel w/ cutoff wheel) , the right type of clamp, and an old (fashioned) drop forged/hardened straight jawed adjustable wrench as a donor…you can make a decent crimping tool. A key is tight jaws on the wrench and a precisely creating the crimp profile on the jaws making sure to emulate the Toyota tool. Google to find a pic of the Toyota tool jaw profile. Make sure you ease/round the profile edges to avoid cutting the clamp while tightening vs. properly deforming the clamp during the crimp

Before crimping the band clamps, apply light grease to the boot groove where the band clamp sits on each boot end…you’ll get a more uniform clamp with less crimping force and “fear” that you’ll snap the crimp clamps during tightening/deforming.

Certainly check the inner and outer for play before deciding to reboot…especially any end with a ripped/split/torn boot. My inners were fully split and separated…near the smaller diameter/shaft end…outers were not split. I suspect inners were split for months and months if not a year or more. Certainly 1000’s of miles, if not 10,000 miles. Point is, there was no play and no debris got into the greases to made an abrasive slurry to wear the joint (3 armed spider on the inner).

On the inner that has the 3 finger spider you’ll have to remove to get the old boots off (unless you cut them off) and the new boots on…FSM says to grind match mark the spider to the end of the shaft…do not use a marker of paint pen (Markal) to matchmark the spider and the end of the shaft as any solvent cleaning you do will likely make the match marks disappear. Ask me how I know! Do what the FSM says…file or grind a shallow, large radius mark (to avoid making a stress concentration or crack starter). Make sure the metal filings are all washed away! Prevention is the best move here…wipe the candidate match mark area free of grease…wrap strips of cloth or tape to cover everything except the to be match marked area…make a small dime sized hole in a piece of paper or rag…place this over the match mark location…now do your match mark grind. Carefully remove the protection to make sure the metal filing.

Which grease goes where? Web search of enthusiast forums had 3 people saying rather definitively that light brown/yellow grease (in tube labeled 90999-94161) goes on inner…darker/dark grey/light black (in tube labeled 90000-94214) goes on outer. Then 1 person “guessed” or seemed to recall the opposite. I do some more checking and found an inner only boot kit on eBay which lists another part provided as 90999-94161…the light brown/yellow one. Plus I call the dealership Toyota parts mgr and says the darkest goes on the outer.

Borrow AutoZone tie rod end remover tool 27175 to separate the tie rod end form the knuckle arm. If you use a pickle fork, you’ll likely ruin the tie rod boot. With this rod end remover tool, be careful to wedge the sharp, feathered edge of the forked end in between the tie rod boot and the knuckle arm vs. clamping and crushing the boot when you tighten the bolt on the tool. I thought I was going to break the tool as I was creating so much force then tightening the bolt. So some penetrating fluid and wait an hour…wrapped the tie rod boot with a wet cloth….propane torch heat to the knuckle arm around the tie rod but no heat onto tie rode threaded end…3 or so minutes of heat and…try to quickly heat and expand the spindle arm out….remove wetted rag…quickly install and tool and tighten. Worked, but still a ton of torque/force needed…it pops when it releases.

....to be continued....
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Unread 11-19-2013, 05:52 PM   #2
Mike S.
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....continued....

I also borrowed an AutoZone slide hammer tool 27033. I bought a 5/8-18UNF nut to go with the one in the kit and made a tang out of a piece of 1” X 2” X 3/8” steel to attach to the threaded end of the slide hammer…the tang is set in the grooved shoulder of the inner CV and hammer away. My drive side was very hard to break free and access was poor to position the slide hammer keeping the tang seated squarely in the CV grooved shoulder. I did not try to pry the inner off from against the differential as there is a dust shield that you just may damage. Eventually it started to draw off after some hammering that I thought was hard enough to damage the say a bearing in the differential. I must have did 20 hits…most all were likely trying to get the clip popped free of the groove.

Look at the rubber lip seals…one on the differential sealing the inner….one on the knuckle sealing the out. The lip was worn off one of my knuckle outers. Luckily the dealer had one in stock. Don’t try to pry off against the wheel bearing and be careful too as the $200 ABS wheel speed sensor (WSS) is just behind the seal. You remove the seal with sharp hits against a flat screwdriver positioned on the tiny out edge that stand bold of the knuckle. Hits collapsing it slightly inward also cause it to disengage and move out…it is now easy to pry off. I made a circle of ¾” plywood to go just inside the lip if the new seal and hammer tapped it in…I would advise you use no grease on the seating diameter when reinstalling the new seal! This is because the ABS WSS can not work properly and will even throw a special code if debris collects on the sensing tip. So if you remove the seal on the knuckle, make a point of wiping the space behind the seal free of any grease or debris from a failed seal.

ABS WSS:

DO NOT REMOVE THE ABS SENSOR FROM THE KNUCKLE AS THE FSM SAYs TO DO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ask me why! You will likely break the $220 MSRP ABS wheel speed sensor (WSS) if your car is more than several years old and in a wet/4 season area using salt on the roads. My dealer tech said they never remove the sensor. Bonding to and swelling of rust in the knuckle sensor drilling as well as the construction/design of the sensor is such that only very few in the junk yard/salvage industry will/can remove these….because they bust off. So mine snapped off…more on that later in another post on how to get it out. Here’s the right thing you do…unclip the sensor connector, unclip the 2 additional wire/cable clips…move the cable and connector back and away from the knuckle area. So why doe the FSM say to remove the ABS WSS? Because there is the potential to bump the tip of the sensor with the splined end of the outer CV joing shaft when you remove it (or reintall it) from (into) the knuckle. It is a simple issue to avoid hitting the sensor tip…you just have to have this awareness. For that matter, there is a spring loaded rubber lip seal on the inner side of the knuckle that you don’t want to bump with the end of the outer CV joint shaft as well.

Mike

Last edited by Mike S.; 11-19-2013 at 06:12 PM.
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Unread 11-19-2013, 06:16 PM   #3
Mike S.
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A few pic on unclipping the ABS sensor:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_7302.JPG (154.3 KB, 64 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7303.JPG (132.6 KB, 43 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7305.JPG (118.1 KB, 48 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7308.JPG (149.6 KB, 49 views)
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Unread 12-10-2013, 07:14 PM   #4
randomransom
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Thank you.....tackling this job this weekend.
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Unread 12-11-2013, 07:00 AM   #5
Mike S.
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randomransom...impact gun really makes removing axle nut, 2 bolts on below bearing cap, and the tie rod nut a breeze. Use a 1 3/8" impact socket for the 35 mm axle nut...it'll fit perfect and is only 0.003" smaller than a 35 mm. I drove the splined outer CV shaft back thru the knuckle with a 3 lb hammer...I did not have to strike it hard...just a 5 to 8 medium to med-light square hits on end.

I'm a DIY'er and not that experienced nor fast...never did a CV before this. After I did these 2, I'd say I could get the knuckle off the CV outer in about 15 minutes with wheel off and I have the impact gun. Getting the CV inner out of the front diff was a learning experience! If this was on a lift and I could work from below, it would have been much easier. The slide hammer from the outside was tough for me, especially due to both tight and limited access from the side.

FYI, I took a dremel tool with a cut off wheel and put a screw driver slit on the top of the rod stud as I put some grease on the tapered tie rod end and it then just spun when I put the nut on the rusty threaded stud end. A screwdriver and combo wrench allowed me to snug the nut and then it didn't rotate when I used a torque wrench to get the reqd preload. I put grease on the tie rod tapered fit because of the ridiculous force it took to pop it apart.

Good luck,

Mike
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Unread 12-13-2013, 08:35 AM   #6
Jagkupan
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The replacement of the CV joints on a Toyota requires that you remove the CV axle first. Once the axle has been pulled back, you will be able to replace it with the new joints. You should make sure the nuts on the joints are tight.
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