OME Install - no spring compressor

[Stanleybb50]

Originally Posted by UnionJack

Yes there is a fix and it's not hard to do:

I also replaced the castle nut because it was very rusty.

Excellent! I'll order that exact kit today, and might even try to have it over-nighted because, I'm assuming I should wait to do my alignment until after i get the new boot installed. (Hopefully I can figure out how to do it also). Seems straight-forward on the cover - just remove castle nut, use a standard puller like the Crafsman one I have at home to remove the lower portion, then just throw the new boot in. But my guess is there's something with those clips that will throw me off.

Thank you so much for providing this info. This site is fantastic.

[UnionJack]

Originally Posted by Stanleybb50

I'm assuming I should wait to do my alignment until after i get the new boot installed.

Changing the boot should not affect the alignment. But obviously adding the lift you will need one.

Use a standard puller like the Crafsman one I have at home to remove the lower portion, then just throw the new boot in.

Make sure your puller is large enough, that is one of the issues I had and had to borrow one from a very nice 120 friend

But my guess is there's something with those clips that will throw me off.

Which clip?

I did this a little over 2 years ago and I am trying to remember the details, I was going to do a write up but ran into several problems, not necessarily with the install. The first attempt Toyota over torqued the locking nut and it disintegrated so that weekend was a bust, then the puller was a problem... another delay. So by the time got I was in a position to get it done I neglected to take pics

One of the best tips I can give you is when you drop the LCA from the spindle, to put it back and align the two bolts use the stock bottle jack to hold it in place. Those two bolts have very tight tolerances and it is difficult to hold the LCA in place and insert the bolts.

[Stanleybb50]

Originally Posted by UnionJack

I did this a little over 2 years ago and I am trying to remember the details, I was going to do a write up but ran into several problems, not necessarily with the install. The first attempt Toyota over torqued the locking nut and it disintegrated so that weekend was a bust, then the puller was a problem... another delay. So by the time got I was in a position to get it done I neglected to take pics

One of the best tips I can give you is when you drop the LCA from the spindle, to put it back and align the two bolts use the stock bottle jack to hold it in place. Those two bolts have very tight tolerances and it is difficult to hold the LCA in place and insert the bolts.

Awesome. Just awesome. Thank you much. I'll be good with lining up the lower bolts you referenced, as I just learned how to line them up on Saturday when I did the lift install.

Sounds like I'll go ahead and just order the parts normal shipping, get my alignment done tomorrow (as originally planned), and then fix this boot over the weekend.

I've got the castle nut, spring clip, and the boot kit all in my cart at ToyotaPartsZone.com. I'll go ahead and submit the order.

Thanks again!

Oh and here's the puller I have... Think this will work out? http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-2...p-00946905000P If not, maybe I can rent the right one from Napa or something. Hopefully mine can work though...

Price Ext.
Price
Remove 43345-69025 COVER,LWR BALL JOINT $21.06 $21.06
Remove 90171-16050 NUT, CASTLE
[4RUNNER,TRUCK | 2006 | 2UZFE | SR5]
Replaced by: 90171-A0005 $2.81 $2.81
Remove 90252-03015 PIN, COTTER
[4RUNNER,TRUCK | 2006 | 2UZFE | SR5] $0.89 $0.89

[UnionJack]

Originally Posted by Stanleybb50

Oh and here's the puller I have... Think this will work out? http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-2...p-00946905000P If not, maybe I can rent the right one from Napa or something. Hopefully mine can work though...

Looks big enough and it's adjustable, you should be fine, don't jump like I did when it LBJ broke free

[UnionJack]

Just had another thought, not sure what lift you put in but you might want to let it settle before getting an alignment.

[Stanleybb50]

Originally Posted by UnionJack

Just had another thought, not sure what lift you put in but you might want to let it settle before getting an alignment.

haha - on the ball joint popping free!

And on this - I hope/assume that I'll be ok. I installed the following (and just used my stock coils front/back):

- 5100's set on .85" setting
- Toytec "Top-1-T" or whatever topout spacer (1/2" spacer that Nets 1")
- 1" Rear Cornfed Spacer

Got exactly 2" in the front, and obviously exactly 1" in the rear. When I first dropped it off the jack stands, it sat at like 3+ inches in the front - which I knew would settle from driving. I made sure to hit some bumps, and used the brakes a bit sharply while going slow to make the nose dive a bit. I drove it about 5 or so miles so far to get it to settle to the 2" lift, and will be another 5-10 miles to the alignment tomorrow.

Think I'm good-to-go then?

Thanks again!!!

[UnionJack]

Using the stock springs I think you should be ok, in my mind that would be what would "settle" the most. Maybe others have an opinion.

[kjohnson129]

Good write up, used this method when I did mine, wish i would have had both sides apart at once, would have saved me re-assembling the driver side. Also, the alignment adjusters stayed in the same position the whole time, marked them to make sure.

Thanks!

[Photog]

Originally Posted by kjohnson129

Good write up, used this method when I did mine, wish i would have had both sides apart at once, would have saved me re-assembling the driver side. Also, the alignment adjusters stayed in the same position the whole time, marked them to make sure.

Thanks!

I am glad this process is working well for so many folks.

@ KJohnson - The alignment adjusters may have stayed in the same positions; but, your alignment definitely changed. The geometry and alignment of the front suspension does not stay the same, as the suspension moves through it range of travel (up - down). The axis of the upper and lower control-arm-mounts, are not parallel. When we add a lift, the suspension is placed in a lower position. The upper ball joint moves down and forward, and the lower ball joint moves straight down. This causes the front alignment to lose "Caster", as the suspension sits at its new ride height.

[Stanleybb50]

Originally Posted by Photog

I am glad this process is working well for so many folks.

@ KJohnson - The alignment adjusters may have stayed in the same positions; but, your alignment definitely changed. The geometry and alignment of the front suspension does not stay the same, as the suspension moves through it range of travel (up - down). The axis of the upper and lower control-arm-mounts, are not parallel. When we add a lift, the suspension is placed in a lower position. The upper ball joint moves down and forward, and the lower ball joint moves straight down. This causes the front alignment to lose "Caster", as the suspension sits at its new ride height.

Good timing and place for this to come up... I got my alignment done on Thursday last week. A very good friend of my Father in law owns the shop and did my alignment + inspection.

He actually told me that he spent about 2 hours on my alignment (he doesn't BS me and is very trust-worthy). However, he forgot to do the printout for me until after he was disconnecting it from the machine. He did tell me that he remembered that he got the "Camber" in spec pretty easily, as well as the "toe", but he said he couldnt get the caster back to within spec. He said it calls for like a 2.4-2.8 on the caster and he got it to around 1.4-1.8.

Obviously, and he confirmed that this is not a tire-wearing spec, but helps keep you going straight (Caster that is). He also said it will drive fine/etc, and I likely won't even notice. However, in my opinion, the steering now feels a bit "looser" at higher speeds. Its hard to explain, but it's like it just takes more thinking and/or effort to keep it going straight. (lol - not as bad as the "loose" Ford steering that I've felt in every stock Ford I've driven, but just not as good as it was).

Like I said, I really trust this guy and is one of the few people that I feel my T4R is in good hands with, when it is at his shop. However, I'm thinking that with the only 2" front lift that I achieved, my caster should be able to be better than this?

Also - FYI that he said one of my lower control arm adjusting bolts was frozen. He said he never got it un-frozen, but that it had to do with the camber only, and that he then used that wheel as the reference point for the other.

Any thoughts/recommendations? Bear in mind, this is a good guy who I trust, and with the relationship to my Father in Law, I hate to push the issue. Does everyone else's steering feel just a bit "looser" after lift?

[Photog]

The "nervous" steering is a common result of low caster settings. The numbers he was able to get are also common. The only way to improve the caster, is to simultaneously screw up the camber.

The aftermarket upper control arms (ICON, Light Racing, Camberg, Total Chaos, etc. ) have extra caster built into their geometry, and allow for proper alignment settings.

Spray some type of "Liquid Wrench" on the threads of the stuck bolts, use some long wrenches, and work it loose. It might take a couple days of spraying and testing (once or twice a day), before it lets go.

[Stanleybb50]

Originally Posted by Photog

The "nervous" steering is a common result of low caster settings. The numbers he was able to get are also common. The only way to improve the caster, is to simultaneously screw up the camber.

The aftermarket upper control arms (ICON, Light Racing, Camberg, Total Chaos, etc. ) have extra caster built into their geometry, and allow for proper alignment settings.

Spray some type of "Liquid Wrench" on the threads of the stuck bolts, use some long wrenches, and work it loose. It might take a couple days of spraying and testing (once or twice a day), before it lets go.

That sucks... Guess I'll deal with the nervous steering then? Maybe I'll try asking the tire shop to do their best when I upsize to 265/70/17 Cooper Discoverer AT3's in the next couple months.

He really was mad at himself for forgetting to print the specs. He verbally told me what he remembered. Hopefully I'm remembering correctly as well:

-Camber: -.2 both sides
-Toe: .8 and .4? (forget which was which)
-Caster: 1.4 and 1.8 (again, not sure which was which)

The price I pay getting what I want I guess..


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[kjohnson129]

Originally Posted by Photog

I am glad this process is working well for so many folks.

@ KJohnson - The alignment adjusters may have stayed in the same positions; but, your alignment definitely changed. The geometry and alignment of the front suspension does not stay the same, as the suspension moves through it range of travel (up - down). The axis of the upper and lower control-arm-mounts, are not parallel. When we add a lift, the suspension is placed in a lower position. The upper ball joint moves down and forward, and the lower ball joint moves straight down. This causes the front alignment to lose "Caster", as the suspension sits at its new ride height.

I know I need an alignment now, was just noting that nothing moved way out of whack from the original alignment. Do I need to put a few miles on the suspension to let things settle? Also, will my new bumper and eventual winch affect things after they are installed?

Thanks for all y'alls help

[Photog]

Originally Posted by kjohnson129

I know I need an alignment now, was just noting that nothing moved way out of whack from the original alignment. Do I need to put a few miles on the suspension to let things settle? Also, will my new bumper and eventual winch affect things after they are installed?

Thanks for all y'alls help

Oops, sorry. I probably mis-read your post.

When the weight of the winch and bumper are added to the front suspension, it will compress the suspension to a new ride height. This will change the alignment.

If you have coilovers, then you can adjust the suspension back to the same ride height as when it was last aligned, and you will not need an alignment.

[Stanleybb50]

As an fyi, I thought I'd follow up on this. Finally got I changed today (thanks to the advice from this thread). Think I did everything correctly as well.

The only call out/question is where you can see I twisted the clip to tighten, and then just left it sticking out towards the front. Any issue with this? I didn't want to cut it, bucause the twists are what keep it tight.



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[Photog]

@ Stanleybb50: Were you able to do the boot change-out during the suspension install, or did you have to go back in later? (It reads like you had to go back in later).

[Stanleybb50]

Originally Posted by Photog

@ Stanleybb50: Were you able to do the boot change-out during the suspension install, or did you have to go back in later? (It reads like you had to go back in later).

I could have certainly done it with the supsension lift, but the leak didn't show itself until after, and I didn't have the new boot kit at my house. When doing the suspension install, you're really half way there with the two big bolts already removed there.

It wasn't too terribly hard. Best advice is when trying to twist the castle nut on, once you get it to the point where it starts skinny the ball joint, you'll want to take a jack and put some weight on the LCA so it won't spin.

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[UnionJack]

Originally Posted by Stanleybb50

The only call out/question is where you can see I twisted the clip to tighten, and then just left it sticking out towards the front. Any issue with this? I didn't want to cut it, bucause the twists are what keep it tight.

I don't see a problem with it that way, the ends of the wires should not be close enough to bother anything. My only concern would be how tight you twisted it and cutting into the boot.