[Toyota 120 Home] [Forum] [4Runner] [Tacoma] [FJ Cruiser] [Lexus GX470] [LC Prado 120] [Tech Write Ups] [Mechanical] [Suspension] [Outfitting] [Audio, Electronics and Electrical] [Maintenance]

Rear brake pads replacement by Expat

I've had the rear pads on the bench for so long. Outside it was pouring with rain so decided to squeeze the 'Runner inside and get the pads done.
So gather tools:
Wheel Brace, torque wrench, 17mm ring spanner, 17mm socket wrench, big arse wrench, hammer, screw driver, brake cleaner, high temp grease, rag, floor jack, two jack stands.

Grab the new rear pads, part # on the box

1. Jack up rear, support with jack stands and remove wheels. I loosen off the brake fluid reservoir cap but I doubt you need to. It's something I learned a long time ago working on cars and have always done it. I think the idea was to allow air pressure from the piston being pressed in (step 10) to escape the reservoir, but avoiding a squirt of brake fluid shooting out over the engine bay.

2. Undo two retaining pins (Cylinder Slide Pins) using 17mm ring spanner that holds the hat of the brake caliper, and remove these pins. You might need the hammer to stike the spanner just loosen the pins, then use the 17mm socket wrench to loosen the rest of the way.

3. Pull the hat (Disc Brake Cylinder Assembly) away from the caliper (Disc Brake Cylinder Mounting Bracket) and then bungee it out the way - I just used the door handle. Note I did not try compressing the piston before pulling the hat. It came off without too much effort at all.

4. Pull the pads out. They need to be wiggled and twisted a bit but come out with very little effort. Use a small screwdriver to pry them if you need to. You can lever against the disc edge but don't lever on the disc face.

5. Remove the anti squeal shims. They have small metal clips that hold them onto the shim. The clips are part of the shim.

6. Also remove the small metal clip that you will find on the lower edge of the inside pad on each side. I think this might be something to do with the wear sensor but its just an earth. There's no wire attached. I suggest putting this traight onto the new pads so you don't loose them. Note that there are only two, one on the left inside pad and one on the right inside pad.

7. Clean the anti squeal shim with brake cleaner. Then coat a very thin layer of high temp grease on both sides.

8. Place the cleaned and greased shims on the new pads. Try avoid getting any grease on the pad surface or the disc. Pads absorb oil, grease etc which is not good.

9. Place the new pads back into the caliper (this takes a bit of juggling).

10. Press the piston on each hat back into its recess. I found by putting the hat on the top of the axle and then using a big arse spanner, I could press down and slowly slide the piston back into its recess. Then return the hat, return the two pins, tighten the pins, return the wheels, lower the truck, torque the lug nuts, confirm that you haven't lost any brake fluid at either the lines or in the engine bay res., replace the res. cap and test (bed-in) your new pads.